The Armstrong A/C on my 75 Sovereign seems to work well. My only concern is that on a hot humid day, say around 90 degrees, it runs on high constantly to hold the trailer at about 75 degrees. IS this normal or should it do a better job? I know it's a large area, but I think it should be able to cool it off a little better without running non-stop, am I correct? The air is relatively cold but not super cold. It doesn't freeze up at all, so I'm not sure if it's low on freon or not. One more question, has anyone changed the R-12 freaon in their Armstrong to R-134a? I've been told that I can do this by one of my friends who used to work in the refrigeration business, but I'm wondering if anyone else has done this.
If it's 75 inside and 90 out and if you are in the full sun, I'd consider that your A/C unit is running pretty good. Once you get to a certain point, it's not unusual to find the compressor is running full time.
Jack
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Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.
'03 GMC Savana 2500
'08 Vespa GTS 250
My neighbor (local heating and air guy) says that the Armstrong (1967 version) is a pretty tough unit. But is limited by it's coil sizes. He will help me rebuild mine.
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Tedd Ill
AIR#3788, WBCCI#4028 Membership discontinued
1967/8 Overlander International Twin w/ bunk/s.
Yes, four kids and two adults in the thing.
Happy wife, happy life.
An air conditioner is considered to be doing its job, if it can keep the inside of whatever you are cooling 20 degrees cooler than outside. That would, of course, be plus or minus a couple of degrees, depanding on conditions.
Just had our '71 armstrong charged. He used R-22. It made a big difference. Live in the south, just about everyday here is hot and humid. It blows nice and cold.
Dawn
Hey, before you all go run out and convert..... I've had some great success with R-12a and R-22a (Duracool). You need no license for it, it's safe for the environment (at least as far as they know now) and it costs and takes less than good ol' R-12 and R-22. We used R-12 a in a walk in cooler that lost it's charge....got plenty cold in there after adding this stuff...and best of all it works under less pressure than typical R-134a and is far, far, far less nasty than R-134a.
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I think we need our Armstrong AC recharged (after 39 years!). It didn't really cool down the air in last weeks 90 degree camping trip. The compressor would turn on for a minute or two, then turn off for a couple of minutes and then back on, but no cold air, just a breeze, as if just the vent function were running. Sooo....I'm calling an AC person to come out and recharge it, but...
where does the freon go? Do I remove the plastic cover on the inside and it goes in there? Do I remove the shroud and it goes up top? Inquiring minds want to know before the AC guy arrives.
...where does the freon go? Do I remove the plastic cover on the inside and it goes in there? Do I remove the shroud and it goes up top? Inquiring minds want to know before the AC guy arrives.
Top side.
Remove the shroud, and the top cover plate. The recharge fitting is where the lines go into a big pile of RV putty. The yellow thing in the picture below is the tip of my ladder; The recharge port is just in front of it.
Thanks, guys. Now if I can just figure out how to get the weird off brand shroud somebody put on up there so I can access the port. Hey, I really appreciate the advice, my wife won't go camping again until we get this fixed!
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I've had some great success with R-12a and R-22a (Duracool). You need no license for it, it's safe for the environment (at least as far as they know now) and it costs and takes less than good ol' R-12 and R-22. We used R-12 a in a walk in cooler that lost it's charge....got plenty cold in there after adding this stuff...and best of all it works under less pressure than typical R-134a and is far, far, far less nasty than R-134a.
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