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Old 01-14-2010, 07:21 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wmarsha View Post
Hi Rick: I am a curious ol' f&%t, what is written on the yellow tag on the flex fuel line?
ol' bill
That's probably the warning that says "don't bend this hose like the way it's bent in this picture", right? Soap-tested and LP gas detector....check....
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:44 AM   #16
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Tim i may be taking the NT22 out of my Tradewind next month. Let me know what you're looking for and I'll try to pull parts. Tried to get it to fire up and the gas lit fine but the blower or electric never fired, could be a wiring issue for all I know.

Thanks fotochop for the post and pictures and documenting the process. How many hours did it take?

I could use/pay for your gas valve and circuit board if you chuck the NT-22 next month. Please keep me in mind. Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:44 AM   #17
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Thanks. Please email or PM me if you decide to scrap the old NT-22 as I need a gas valve, etc. Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:35 PM   #18
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I have an NT-22 if anyone needs parts. The heat exchanger is shot. Gas valve, blower work. Sail switch is bad. Just let me know is anyone needs anything.
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:28 AM   #19
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1974 25' Tradewind
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I could sure use the gas valve, control board, pilot assembly snd thermocouple.
Pm me or let me know how I can $$ hey these. Thanks a lot.
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:49 AM   #20
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I could sure use the gas valve, control board, pilot assembly snd thermocouple.
Pm me or let me know how I can $$ hey these. Thanks a lot.
We're replacing the furnace in Avion and I'm pretty sure it's an N22-A. I'll confirm the model number and if the parts can help you out they're yours for the cost of shipping.

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:05 AM   #21
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Great. Let me know what the cost is for:

Gas valve
Control board
Pilot assembly
Thermocouple

I appreciate this very much.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:51 PM   #22
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Great. Let me know what the cost is for:

Gas valve
Control board
Pilot assembly
Thermocouple

I appreciate this very much.
It's an NT-22C A.

Attached is a pdf of the installation, Operating and Service Instructions.

Double check to make sure the parts will work for your application. If so I'll pull them of and send them your way. Some of the pages are upside down because of the way our scanner works.

Kevin
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Surburban Dyna-Trail Manual.pdf (1.38 MB, 165 views)
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:33 AM   #23
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Thanks Kevin,
I would like to have the following:

Exhaust vent cap adapter #5
Intake tube rubber gasket #4
Pilot assembly incl. gas line #42, #43
Thermocouple assembly #24, #25
Gas valve #38
Gas solenoid #39

I will send you a PM. Let me know the cost.

Thanks
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:03 AM   #24
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NT 22 A Heater is toast

Still running mine down, cleaned it up and put back in.Solenoid from thermostat clicks on but fan blower doesn't come on. I'll pull again and put 12V directly on the fan and see if it comes on. Any clue on how to check other components? Pilot light works fine.
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:17 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by fotochop View Post
I wasn't thrilled to have the 'recalled' NT-22 furnace in my '69 Safari:

Attachment 93702

You can see in the photo above that the rubber combustion tube (cause of the recall) has a gaping hole in it. Many folks have successfully replaced this tube with new material but you're still kinda stuck with a 40 year old pilot light furnace... I decided to lurk on ebay and ended up with a "new" Suburban Nt-30sp from an rv salvage company for 300 bucks, which was about half the cost of a new store-bought one.... Inspection confirmed that the furnace had not been used and was, for all purposes, like new.

After pulling the old furnace I slipped the new one in the existing (larger) box and hooked it up to test. The burner came on for 10 seconds but wouldn't stay on. I emailed the ebay seller with my hunch that the board was bad and he was decent enough to send me a new Suburban board.

That false start killed my momentum and I put the furnace in the corner by the washing machine until my wife gently suggested I needed to get that "thing" installed and out of the house. She's only right about 99% of the time, which confirms she is, in fact, human ;-)

Here's a shot of the space after pulling the old furnace:

Attachment 93703

That supply line snaking up over the furnace (and it does get hot up there) really creeped me out (but the new furnace allows for "zero clearance" on top, btw) I pulled it. You can see the duct opening at the bottom, leading to fore and aft floor vents.

So I bench tested the new furnace after replacing the board (not hard, just a few plugs and connectors) and it worked fine. I was ready to install. I cut away the top and sides of the old furnace enclosure with my $20 mini grinder from Harbor Freight (best twenty bucks you'll ever spend!) and put two pieces of leftover 17" italian tile to raise the new furnace up to correct level for the intake/exhaust tubes to mate with the two holes in the exterior:

Attachment 93704

You can also see where I added a strip of aluminum at the top rear of that space to some wood that came really close to the top of the furnace box. Only took a few minutes, "zero clearance" notwithstanding...

Slid the new furnace in and made sure the tubes were properly aligned. I fabricated a new mini-duct out of flashing to move the hot air from the inside-front of the furnace down to the duct opening. It's a bit funky but works fine with a piece of aluminum tape on the right. Secured the furnace to the cabinet with 2" wood screws. The tight fit and security screw on the exhaust vent also stabilizes the furnace to trailer.

Attachment 93706

The exterior vent cover is a beautiful piece of industrial design, IMHO. It's a tricky little devil to install, though, but a fellow forums user turned me on to this little home-made wire tool that I used to PUSH the spring clip rearward onto the flange, which is the way to do it:

Attachment 93707

The finished installation (temporary wing nuts until the (lost) ones arrive from Suburban. Nice and toasty inside!

Attachment 93708
I was wondering if you cut the back off the old cabinet when you removed the top and sides? Does it help to keep the back side of the old cabinet when installing the NT-30?
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:31 PM   #26
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Seems like I just slid the guts of the NT22 out of mine and the smaller NT30 slid inside, but I raised it up on a frame built with 2x2s so the exhaust vents line up. There are some pics I posted on another thread close to Fotochops. Also had ti use tin snips to cut the old casing foe the gas line to fit on the right.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:06 PM   #27
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We are facing the same project. We are taking out an old,old, old duo-therm. Need to replace it as it caught on fire this winter. In any event, we have 22 inches depth to work with. That measurment is at the bottom of the furnace, in the tightest place on the curve of the wall. How much space did you have to work with. We now have 25,000 btu, which puts out 20,000 btu ( that's what the front of the furnace says) so we could go with the NT20 which has a 21 1/2 inch depth but lower BTU's at 19000. Tell me what depth you started out with, and how much space you ended up really needing. Does the 23 inch depth dimension count the wall spacing? My measurment is interior. The NT 30 sounds like more heat, wondering if it is nessesary.
Thanks, Kewpie
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewpie
We are facing the same project. We are taking out an old,old, old duo-therm. Need to replace it as it caught on fire this winter. In any event, we have 22 inches depth to work with. That measurment is at the bottom of the furnace, in the tightest place on the curve of the wall. How much space did you have to work with. We now have 25,000 btu, which puts out 20,000 btu ( that's what the front of the furnace says) so we could go with the NT20 which has a 21 1/2 inch depth but lower BTU's at 19000. Tell me what depth you started out with, and how much space you ended up really needing. Does the 23 inch depth dimension count the wall spacing? My measurment is interior. The NT 30 sounds like more heat, wondering if it is nessesary.
Thanks, Kewpie
The Nt 30sp was the best replacement last year for the 20. I cut an extra heater vent running to the front inder the oven. It was pretty quiet too.
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