Pilot burner part needed for Suburban NT22

[j5myf]

I've searched high and low on the web to find anyone who can supply me with a Suburban pilot burner part no. 160535 and hope someone out there can help me. I know it was used on numerous NT models as shown in the manual.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, the cost of replacing the whole unit is too much at the moment.

Thanks

[Aage]

It's my impression that those items are generic, and any trailer store will have one on the shelf for you. That's where I got mine, IIRC

Let's wait to hear if I'm right though, OK?

[68 TWind]

Make sure the old NT22 is in good shape. Make sure the cross over tube is OK ( I think there was a factory recall many years ago)
My old NT22 seemed to work OK but the pilot kept going out and the sail switch was bad so I had a buddy in the HVAC business look at it. He found that the heat exchanger had a hole in it. This would allow combustion gasses to mix with the heated air, a death trap. The pilot not staying lit may have saved my life otherwise I might not have found the hole (which had nothing to do with the pilot light).. Bottom line, is be very sure the unit is in good shape.

[louaxtjr]

I ended up purchasing a used one is good repair and ended up with other spare parts. This after an exhaustive search for the proper pilot. Most modern pilots require a new thermocouple as well, to place it in line with the flame.

On mine the mounting holes for the pilot/thermocouple assembly were not lined up. I am guessing they were drilled on the assembly line as the screws were going in. As a result, you'll want to be sure a solid sealing surface is available if you put a different pilot in. An overlay panel may be necessary.

Note that a CO detector/alarm is essential with ANY propane furnace and also suggest leaving a few windows cracked to assure fresh air is allowed in.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by louaxtjr

I ended up purchasing a used one is good repair and ended up with other spare parts. This after an exhaustive search for the proper pilot. Most modern pilots require a new thermocouple as well, to place it in line with the flame.

On mine the mounting holes for the pilot/thermocouple assembly were not lined up. I am guessing they were drilled on the assembly line as the screws were going in. As a result, you'll want to be sure a solid sealing surface is available if you put a different pilot in. An overlay panel may be necessary.

Note that a CO detector/alarm is essential with ANY propane furnace and also suggest leaving a few windows cracked to assure fresh air is allowed in.

The generic pilot lights are also available with a bracket having an attached thermocouple included as well. These are "consumables" in the life of a furnace.

If the furnace was safety-checked and it has been assured that it is in good working operation, I don't see the need to open a window. The furnace draws its combustion air from outside through one of the two holes it requires in the bodywork. The other hole is, of course, the exhaust.

Vulkem (TremPro 622) should be applied generously between the exterior trim plate (that the fresh air intake and exhaust outlet pass through), and the aluminum wall of the body that the plate sits on. This ensures that exhaust fumes don't return into the cabin.

Be careful and have fun!

[Aage]

ps: pay careful attention to 68Twind's advice in post #3: lots of other parts can fall victim to the major enemy of old furnaces: rust. The cooling cycle of the unit attracts moisture and eventually, the firebox will rust through.

Of course, you might decide to look around and find a deal on a new NT-22. To me, one feature makes it all worth it: electronic ignition. No more fussing around light pilot lights!

The other thing is that you would now have is great confidence that it will work, every time that you want it to.

[lewster]

Sorry, but I have to comment on all of the above.

I certainly see the value and benefit of restorations. I have to disagree when they can easily become a life threatening experience.

LP, as beneficial a fuel as it is, can easily outsmart you and severely injure or kill you. Do you not realize that you are trying to breathe new life into a 40 year old LP furnace that has had several factory recalls (in it's day, which is long past!)?

And please don't call me an alarmist! I have seen the damage that old RV furnaces can do......rusted components, LP leaks, explosive ignitions, RV, CO-2 exhaust leaks, fires....you name it.

So please try to convince me of the ultimate value of trying to restore a 40 year old LP furnace which is way past it's prime! If your ultimate safety and well-being mean nothing to you, or you are so caught up in the 'restore to original specifications' genre, then please list the locations that you camp in so I can scrupulously avoid these sites..................

The cost of a new furnace is slight compared to the value of one's life!

I've had my say. I'll go quietly now..............................

[goransons]

Lewster, good points!

[louaxtjr]

I agree, Lewster. If only I could afford a new furnace!

[goransons]

Lou I picked up a used Suburban furnace that was only a few years old from a salvage yard for our first airstream, not a spot of rust anywhere. Had to put a new sail switch in it and clean a bunch of wasp nests out of the intake, but wasn't bad for under $100. Keep an eye out, particularly the wrecking yards that specialize in the SOB RV's. Also ebay suppliers often have new ones around $350.00. Can always resort to a small electric space heater until you can save up for a new one.

[louaxtjr]

Originally Posted by goransons

Lou I picked up a used Suburban furnace that was only a few years old from a salvage yard for our first airstream, not a spot of rust anywhere. Had to put a new sail switch in it and clean a bunch of wasp nests out of the intake, but wasn't bad for under $100. Keep an eye out, particularly the wrecking yards that specialize in the SOB RV's. Also ebay suppliers often have new ones around $350.00. Can always resort to a small electric space heater until you can save up for a new one.

Thanks for the idea. Now that the original is rehabbed ( by me ) and with the spares I accumulated, the old Suburban will have to do for now. As Lewster said, rust can be a problem, so that will likely be the determinant for when I HAVE to retire it. I'll be watching for an affordable upgrade.

I do carry an electric space heater( though it scares me more than the propane furnace) and down comforter just in case. We also can heat with white gas, but that requires certain venting, not just a cracked window or 2.

[j5myf]

Thanks for all the great info and advice. Good to know that we're all safety conscious. Extra info...

The furnace is in good condition and worked great until I broke the pilot giving the unit a spring clean, don't ask, it's too embarrassing. I fitted a detector as soon as I got the AS. Got a simple fan heater as back up when we're connected to city power. The part is one piece with the pilot & thermocouple and I'm in the UK which makes sourcing a little harder.

Help... where can I get one?

Thanks for all the help