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Old 07-10-2013, 11:49 PM   #1
cwf
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Penguin install

Today



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Old 07-11-2013, 07:18 AM   #2
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Great pics! Finally very clear and really needs no words.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:25 AM   #3
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Great pics! Finally very clear and really needs no words.
Thanks Melody!
I was one woe out pup!
More pics if needed.

It is in and ran successful 40 minute run.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:08 AM   #4
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I see how it works now, mine just dribbles down the side of the trailer like the old one.

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Old 07-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #5
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If you are replacing an existing one, there should be a tube which travels down inside the wall and exits in a wheel well or someplace under the belly. If your trailer is older, it is a good idea to clean out the tube as it can become blocked over time.

Channing, great pics. I have thought about installing one over our bedroom in place of the fantastic fan now there. Did you use the old fan power source, or run a new circuit?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:46 AM   #6
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Aviator,
Depends upon where your FF is located.

The FF was too far aft. I had to remove the FF then block and cover with new aluminum. I also put a cross block where the rear of AC can be supported

For AC i cut the roof forward of the center rib about 3 inches then the 14.25" opening.

I ran power rear of drain line.

This meant I had to drill 2 holes in the strenthener rib which is behind that wood block on street side.

Once those holes made I secured the blocking and sealed.

Next I cut a 1.25" hole about 8 inches toward street side from the 14.25 AC hole in ceiling for the power and drain lines to exit. I will be running them along ceiling to side for drain and then route power aft.

I am replacing the 30 with 50 AMP as son as parts arrive.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:09 PM   #7
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Thank you for an excellent description. I was thinking of a second 30amp setup which would also run a radiant heat system and the electric side of my water heater.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:13 PM   #8
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Nuther trick I figured out Chan. If you buy a cheap hand transfer pump at Wally World (automotive section) you can use it to periodically pump a chlorine+water solution up the drain tubes from the bottom until it overflows the cups at the top and that will prevent the mung from growing in the line and plugging it up.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:21 PM   #9
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CWF,

A couple of questions: Did you double up the foam seals under your Penguin so that the drain tubes could be used, or did you go with a single layer?

I bought my Penguin as the upper (external) unit only. I still need to get the ceiling panel with controls etc.. Do the clamping bolts that mechanically hold the AC to the roof come with the ceiling units, or are they something that is ordered separately (I've never seen a catalog entry for this hardware)?

thanks!
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:56 PM   #10
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Second AC.

I'm so jealous!
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:24 PM   #11
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Guys... You ain't gonna believe this!

6PM,
111.7 inside, 104 outside. Bright direct sun.

9:30PM,
71.5

40degrees in 3:30.. Not bad.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
CWF,

A couple of questions: Did you double up the foam seals under your Penguin so that the drain tubes could be used, or did you go with a single layer?

I bought my Penguin as the upper (external) unit only. I still need to get the ceiling panel with controls etc.. Do the clamping bolts that mechanically hold the AC to the roof come with the ceiling units, or are they something that is ordered separately (I've never seen a catalog entry for this hardware)?

thanks!
Ceiling panel kit had ceiling frame and bolts. Also both knobs for fan/cool and temp.

Drain kit came with square gasket to double depth and all hoses and clamps to connect to new or existing condensate line. Also, there are additional gaskets to add to rear of AC so it stays "level" and supports rear properly.

Instructions tell you to measure a certain distance from front of gasket then cut away 3/4" slot so that hoses pass. I found this did not work as expected because the cup had to mount a little further back due to locations of alignment screws on my specific unit. So, just note how the alignment works for you.

Next, I compressed the gasket a little more than the 3/4".... The point to note is that when you look at the clearance between roof and the new drain cups on outside, they are equidistant. Also the rear hold down is tightened so AC base is parallel to roof.

When measuring, note the distance from rear of AC to center of the new support gasket you put on from the kit. This is the distance to where you put a rear support inside the ceiling.

I found this does not transfer additional sound to roof and may actually dampen because it is not banging on the roof like its a tambourine. And we can mostly agree tambourines rate far below banjos!

I chose to aim the drain line T straight down. I added a 1.25" piece of reinforced drain line then a 90 degree elbow to turn directly into the street side bracing where the drain line heads out.

NOTE: make SURE you have the support rib and block drilled before putting in block and that they align with drain T, block and rib holes.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:22 PM   #13
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Yes, I doubled the gasket with a full one on the bottom and "notched" one on top for the drain cup hoses. Also, the kit and instructions came with three bolts. When installing the single bolt side and torquing it until I obtained 50% compression of the gaskets, I broke the aluminum frame. I then ordered a new interior airbox (to get another frame) and installed four bolts per Lewster's direction. Initial torque was to 75% compression then after it sat overnight, I torqued it the rest of the way. No leaks in over a year, and this summer has been very wet with high humidity in the southeast.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #14
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My unit only has three bolts. Hmmmm
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