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Old 04-19-2006, 09:00 PM   #1
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1979 31' Excella 500
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Peak wattage draw on the original 1979 air unit

I was just playing around with my new to me 1979 Airstream air conditioning. It has the original unit and it works! I don't see anything in the owners manual about the peak and run-time wattage of this thing. I hooked it up to my Honda 3000i and it seemed to handle it without the overload light being on but it was really working. Just wondered if anyone has the specs on this thing for peak and runtime wattage.
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Old 04-20-2006, 12:10 AM   #2
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Technically.. It takes a lot...

Wac-

Looks like you're gonna enjoy a few more challenges before the unit gets sealed and ready to haul north... Hope you're feeling better about purchase and looking forward to having the unit set up and ready to enjoy...

As for A/C and Honda 3000i, the typical starting load for the Coleman TX model A/C is about 26 or 27 amps, which equates to something in neighborhood of 2800 watts at 110V.. Runtime or steady load is around 23 to 24 Amps. I should JOHNHD or some of the other electricians give you exact number.. Given that 3000 watts is "Peak" or max short term load for Honda, and that some of those watts get lost in trailer passing through charger circuit, you're probably consuming every available watt and just barely kicking over the compressor for startup load...

If you have different or newer A/C, your wattage may vary, but the owner manual or data plate on A/C should state startup Ampere load. Multiply that by 110 to determine wattage load. I think Airstream implies that with charged batteies you are likely to get 80 to 85% of incoming powr into 110V circuits. Should work, but won't run much other electrical load, or work when batteries are down and in need of recharge.

The risk to beware of is that several A/C makers claim that low voltage on startup (caused by too few watts..) can and will harm the compressor, and expose risk of having to replace unit...

For more info, search threads on generators and air conditioning... Many member tie a pair of 2000' generators together, for lighter weight and more load carrying power.

John McG
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:07 AM   #3
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1979 31' Excella 500
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I'm feeling a little better especially knowing that I might have AC on those very hot days. If my generator can kick start it without the overload light coming on I assume I'm ok. Just can't run much else at the same time. My last big problem is a black water tank/valve leak and I'm taking that one in to get fixed.
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:59 AM   #4
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1979 31' Excella 500
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Is there a breaker for the Univolt box so you can kill it temporarily?
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:56 AM   #5
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Check Manual for Univolt Breaker?

There should be a breaker for the Univolt, but not sure whether it would be in main breaker box or part of Univolt.. There is also (I believe) a rotary main cutoff switch located inside trailer (ours is behind foldout couch...) that cuts off all 12V power, though may leave emergency brake circuit active... During the 80's, A/S also used regular wal switch mounted somewhere in trailer to switch beteen microwave and A/C outlets, since main circuit could only handle one or other. It may also be possible to drop power to Univolt by opening breaker circuit in ower box (usually at rear of trailer) where 110V enters. One circuit breaker there is dedicated to A/C and Microwave line, other may be feed to Univolt.

Glad to hear progress progressing... Sealer work and floor workable?

John McG
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:59 AM   #6
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Floor patch is workable. As for leaks, sealers, I've been applying for about a week non-stop everywhere imaginable, and we'll see with the next rain. Biggest outstanding issue is leaky black water tank/valve (don't know which). I'll be taking it to a dealer for this!
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