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Old 08-28-2009, 11:03 AM   #1
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Overlander A/C

Yep, been busy this month...

OK, start with the standard Zep scaffold.

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Unbutton the A/C shroud.

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The exposed original A/C looks like this. If you remove the entire A/C unit, including its mounting plate, it's too heavy to manage by one person. If you're doing this alone, remove the compressor, which is half the total weight of the A/C--four bolts and cut three copper pipes. There's no helping the possible release of freon--you can't get it off by yourself.

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You can remove just the components and leave the mounting "plate" on the roof. I recommend this approach if your plate is attached all around with solid rivets. Second, if you keep the plate, you have a flat surface to mount your new A/C. You also avoid having to seal up 50-some rivet holes, most of which require Olympics, since the interior skin prevents back side access. On the other hand, the removal of the components will open up some other holes that will need to be sealed.

Note the flanges around the edges of the A/C "plate." These stick up high enough to be unsightly from the ground. You can either bend them down flat onto the top of the plate, cut them off with a sawzall, or, if you're lucky, you can break the spot welds and remove them. If you bend them over flat, you will have a stronger plate.

Anyway, this one was attached with pop rivets so I removed the whole thing. I sure like the looks without an A/C...

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Whether or not you keep the plate, you MUST construct internal braces that counter the squeeze forces from the bolts used in the modern A/C attachment method. These braces only need to be attached to the outer shell. The internal ceiling skin is not structural so screwing the internal skin to the braces only adds a small amount of support. With only the outside connections, the braces are very stiff--you could do a pullup on them. You, not me. The braces do not need to be attached at the corners--remember, they are mostly there to take compression loads. In this Overlander, there is a rib at the front edge of the opening, so only three pieces of wood were needed.

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You can see the pattern of the old plate's perimeter rivet holes here. I used solid rivets where I could get at them and Olypmpics along the street and curb edges.

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Have fun. You can do this by yourself except getting the new A/C up on the scaffold. If the ladders didn't project up above the platform, you could slide the new A/C up the ladder and plop, onto the plank, but not with this scoffold.

Make sure you remember to route the power wire through the braces. Also, I put the drain line in there so that it's accessible--not needed on this model A/C, but some do need it.

Zep
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:07 AM   #2
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Good job photo documenting your steps Zep. Didn't realize that the new unit footprint is much smaller.

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:10 AM   #3
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One note on the seal. It seems way too dense to smash down and conform to the shell curve, but it does. I need to crank the front street side bolt a little to get the white "foot" to touch.

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Inside is a different story. The shroud won't conform to the ceiling and the controls will be recessed and will be hard to operate. Trimming the shroud would remove the seats for the edge screws, so it's a problem. But the shroud still does a pretty good job without too gross air leaks. Trimming would make it better.

Zep
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:39 AM   #4
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Great thread, Zep. Your old A/C looks practically brand new compared to mine. What was wrong with it? There'll be 47 people PM'ing you to sell them parts off that thing before the sun goes down.

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Old 08-28-2009, 11:52 AM   #5
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Great post. I will use this info when I stick a second air on our '34.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan View Post
Great thread, Zep. Your old A/C looks practically brand new compared to mine. What was wrong with it? There'll be 47 people PM'ing you to sell them parts off that thing before the sun goes down...
I thought it had run out of freon. The first one I did, on the Carvel(http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...tos-20568.html), didn't have a fill port so I thought this one wouldn't, either. In any event, I had the new A/C, so I proceeded. It turns out it was completely full--the compressor just pooped out even though it was still running. All the other motors and relays worked fine.

All the parts are already gone to the dump, except the relay box. I salvaged all the components from the first one, tried to give them away for a year, and finally dumped them, too.

Zep
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:05 PM   #7
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Bummer. I was going make you offer on the cover.

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Old 07-14-2010, 05:16 PM   #8
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Great posting of pictures. This shroud looks like what is on our 74, and compressor is not kicking on.
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:49 PM   #9
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I'm getting ready to do the same job, did you place the 2x4 across the entire center section or just the 14.25 opening?

On completly diffentnote, could the plastic cover be painted silver to match the rest of the air stream?
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Old 10-14-2010, 03:03 PM   #10
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Hey Roger - so did you miss all the wind and sand on this install?

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Old 10-14-2010, 03:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Hey Roger - so did you miss all the wind and sand on this install?
How'd you know I was wishing I was in Albuquerque? BTW, thanks again for the Balloon Festival. Well worth the expensive seats! They were actually cheap at twice the price.

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Old 10-14-2010, 03:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
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On completly diffentnote, could the plastic cover be painted silver to match the rest of the air stream?
I don't see why not. I painted my two-tone blue.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:14 AM   #13
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Painting AC unit

Yea, that looks real nice. What kind of paint and primer did you use?

Did you have to cut a hole and re-enforce the roof?
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe View Post
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Did you have to cut a hole and re-enforce the roof?
Yes, take a look at post #1 in this thread, or for a bit more detail, post #1 here.

Zep
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