Over heated 20 amp AC breaker tripping

[woppa 4]

The 20 amp AC breaker was constantly tripping during extensive AC usage at 85F plus outside reading. A fellow AS owner advised me to open the compartment door our the breaker is located to allow for additional cooling to the breaker. It worked! My question is: why should a new unit require this field fix.woppa4




x

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by woppa 4

My question is: why should a new unit require this field fix.

The answer is: It shouldn't, unless you have a low-voltage condition. Are you at home, trying to run the a/c off a 15 amp plug and adapter? Are you in an RV park with 30 amp service? Do you have some kind of a volt meter? If so, what's the voltage with the a/c on and off?
Of course, it could also be a problem with wiring or the a/c unit, or even a loose or defective breaker.

[woppa 4]

Located at KOA Orlando.30 AMP service.Replaced breaker.woppa4

[woppa 4]

Checked with vol meter; constant 120 across breaker, with AC on or off.woppa4

[woppa 4]

As I mentioned earlier, breaker has been replaced. woppa4

[shastavalley]

Check size of supply cord. You will get full voltage reading without the ac drawing any load. An undersized supply cord will create more resistance there by dropping voltage when the ac is on, especially starting. You need to check the amperage when the ac is starting and running. Total load is the product of voltage times amperage.

[woppa 4]

Just a fleeting thought: Ref AC tripper breaking? My 30 C OE AC specified a 13500 BTU AC unit. I have a 15000 op AC unit. Question: would the additional 1500 BTU increase in power requirement overload a 20AMP breaker OE installed to support the lower rated BTU unit? woppa4

[Mrcrowley]

Originally Posted by woppa 4

Just a fleeting thought: Ref AC tripper breaking? My 30 C OE AC specified a 13500 BTU AC unit. I have a 15000 op AC unit. Question: would the additional 1500 BTU increase in power requirement overload a 20AMP breaker OE installed to support the lower rated BTU unit? woppa4

Is it a new AC unit if so look at paper work it should say what it needs for a CB. I just Purchased a new Carrier ac 15000 BTU unit and now that you mentioned it I think I will take a look at my manual for that info.

[woppa 4]

I took delivery 14 Mar 09 2009 30 classic.woppa4

[Silvertwinkie]

I have the 15k unit and it has the same size breaker. Since the breaker still trips after a new one installed, then I would be looking at the A/C unit itself. We had this problem at work on our data center A/C units. Though they are 10 ton units, the principle is the same. It turned out the compressor on one unit was shot and drawing too many amps. Another time, it was suggested that the gas was too low causing the compressor to do unexpected things.

That's not to say it couldn't be the fan or something else, but more times than not the compressor has been the root cause when I've seen this problem (at work). This may be an RV repair shop visit unless you have refrigerant gauges and/or are able to assess the draw the unit is taking at the compressor.

Just a thought.....I'm no HVAC tech.

[woppa 4]

Dometic tech will arrive this PM to check-out the AC and Refrig: He is a mobile type. will post the results. woppa4

[woppa 4]

Dometic tech's check-out: AC/Refrigerator
Breaker tripping: Apparently KOA's electrical grid was overloaded at the park in orlando. At present AC is currently operating at 6.5 amp/12amp compressor knick-in with negative breaker impact( replaced breaker,apparently previous breaker was damaged due to the constant tripping in Fl, (on average, very 15 min until the field fix was applied) Frig lower cooling probem: Thermister,location and proper setting in the retaining clip. Question: I wish to buy a reliable amp test meter,which would allow me to moniter park amperage output; to prevent a future same type incident from occuring. Recommendation on which type to purchase would be greatly appreciated ( I am a novice in that area).woppa4

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by woppa 4

Dometic tech's check-out: AC/Refrigerator
Breaker tripping: Apparently KOA's electrical grid was overloaded at the park in orlando. At present AC is currently operating at 6.5 amp/12amp compressor knick-in with negative breaker impact( replaced breaker,apparently previous breaker was damaged due to the constant tripping in Fl, (on average, very 15 min until the field fix was applied) Frig lower cooling probem: Thermister,location and proper setting in the retaining clip. Question: I wish to buy a reliable amp test meter,which would allow me to moniter park amperage output; to prevent a future same type incident from occuring. Recommendation on which type to purchase would be greatly appreciated ( I am a novice in that area).woppa4

Woppa4,
They are a little expensive but a Fluke Multimeter will cover your needs. There are other mulitmeters out there too. Check out your local Home Depot, Lowes, or an electrician's supply house and I am sure you will find a wide range of digital and analog multimeters.

Take look at this Fluke Multimeter...

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...(FlukeProducts)

RV stores, camping world, www.bestconverter.com also have AC and DC meters that you can use inside your trailer to monitor you AC and DC current.

If you get a multimeter be sure to read the directions carefully becuase electricity is not something to take lightly. 110 AC might not kill you, but is sure doesn't feel good.

[woppa 4]

Follow -up to last entry: The Dometic tech is installing a 12volt temp control coil cooling fan in the ext frig compartment. He highly recommends that after-market system. He is also offering that advise to Dometic. For installation as OEM on future systems that would be operateing in hot/humid areas. I trust the guy, he was a professional in answering my many questions in a manner that I could understand.woppa4

[Mrcrowley]

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Woppa4,
They are a little expensive but a Fluke Multimeter will cover your needs. There are other mulitmeters out there too. Check out your local Home Depot, Lowes, or an electrician's supply house and I am sure you will find a wide range of digital and analog multimeters.

Take look at this Fluke Multimeter...

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...(FlukeProducts)

RV stores, camping world, www.bestconverter.com also have AC and DC meters that you can use inside your trailer to monitor you AC and DC current.

If you get a multimeter be sure to read the directions carefully becuase electricity is not something to take lightly. 110 AC might not kill you, but is sure doesn't feel good.

How would reliably test the incoming Voltage I would think it would be always changing. Wish there was a away if any to protect your trailer from incoming Power problems something like a surge protector.

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by Mrcrowley

How would reliably test the incoming Voltage I would think it would be always changing. Wish there was a away if any to protect your trailer from incoming Power problems something like a surge protector.

Mrcrowley,
There are surge protectors and line conditioners / autoformers for RVs...take a look...

Camping World Surge Protectors

If you are woried about low voltage too, you can invest in an autoformer. Hughes and Franks are popular, but I have read some bad reviews on the Hughes brand.

Autoformers at bestconverter.com
Frank's Voltage Booster Homepage

Both the surge protectors and the autoformers are expensive, but consider the alternative.

I have a surge protector for both of our coaches and am saving up to purchase an autoformer for both of our Airstreams.

[woppa 4]

I have surge protection. I am not sure how a autoformer works, placement,and ease of installation (professional tech). I am certainly interest.I do not want to repeat the same experience as I did recently in Fl. Please advise. woppa4

[DEITZ645]

Originally Posted by woppa 4

I have surge protection. I am not sure how a autoformer works, placement,and ease of installation (professional tech). I am certainly interest.I do not want to repeat the same experience as I did recently in Fl. Please advise. woppa4

Woppa4,
If I understand it correctly the autoformer nulls out any AC power surge or AC brown outs to a certain point and will automatically disconnect if the AC is out of operatring paramters and reconnect once they are back in, all before any permanent damage is done to the RV.

The autoformer does not need to be "installed" inside th trialer. It simply plugs in-line with the trailer AC cord. Autoformer plugs into AC source and trailer plugs into autoformer and presto, you're in business.

If you want to read about the autoformers, I would suggest you peruse Frank's Electronics home page.

Another thing to remember is that all autoformers have surge and spike protection so it will make your current surge protector obsolete.

[Minno]

We plan on adding an autoformer during our refurb of Little Girl.

I would go for a hardwired unit, or at least mount the plug-in unit inside the trailer if at all possible. That way you never forget to use it, and it won't grow feet and disappear.

Chris