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Old 05-15-2009, 04:55 PM   #1
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nt30 in nt22 case????

I have spent a bunch of time looking at the articles on installing the Nt30 in place of the nt22.

I have the replacement on the bench and wanted to see about fitment.

Note: I do not have my cabinate pulled apart. I took out the 22 and the 30 and placed the 30 in the 22 case.
with a brace of about 1 3/4 inch for height and tight against the right side it fits well and the air/exhaust ports line up ok.

I will have to cut a hole for the wiring and then put a3 inch spacer around the sides so I can use the front 22 door. I will also have to cut out for the gas inlet.

Now this seems too easy, I am sure that I am missing something or someone a hell of a lot smarter than I would have done this before.
Note my trailer is a 72 25ft land yacht. heater under the sink

any suggestions?

thank you

rayk
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:49 PM   #2
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There may be other threads but both I and Pizza Chop posted on this replacement. I salvaged the old NT22 cabinet and used the bottom as a plenum, allowing the use of existing duct work I salvaged the front cover of the NT 22 to seal the front of the now plenum and put in a 90 bend to further seal the top of the plenum and downdraft hole from the NT30. I had to raise the NT 30 up and over an inch or so so the outside intake exhaust ports line up. I had to enlarge one of the intake/exhaust holes in the skin for the NT 30.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond View Post
I have spent a bunch of time looking at the articles on installing the Nt30 in place of the nt22.

I have the replacement on the bench and wanted to see about fitment.

Note: I do not have my cabinate pulled apart. I took out the 22 and the 30 and placed the 30 in the 22 case.
with a brace of about 1 3/4 inch for height and tight against the right side it fits well and the air/exhaust ports line up ok.

I will have to cut a hole for the wiring and then put a3 inch spacer around the sides so I can use the front 22 door. I will also have to cut out for the gas inlet.

Now this seems too easy, I am sure that I am missing something or someone a hell of a lot smarter than I would have done this before.
Note my trailer is a 72 25ft land yacht. heater under the sink

any suggestions?

thank you

rayk

Raymond

I'm unsure why you would put the guts from a NT30 into a NT22 case.
You should shim the unit to fit your outlet/inlet fitting on the trailer wall. That is what is important. I would suggest you put the heater back in the case it came in. If you line up the parts list for the 22 through the 30 you would find the only difference is the burner orifice.
You are not missing anything, it is a very easy job just follow the instructions.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:34 PM   #4
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I've searched for the thread where I posted some pics of the install but I can't find it.

I used the original housing (NT 32) to take advantage of existing ductwork but didn't use the original front cover. I did have to move the housing approx 3/4" (can't remember which way, but it was a in a Sovereign) for the intake/exhaust to line up. I used wood lined with aluminum tape to close off and direct the blower.

It's kind of foggy now but I've got a few pictures somewhere as well as these in my member's photos. That is the original housing after I painted it gray (it was rather rusty).
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:58 PM   #5
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Thank you but still not much smarter

I had read the thread about removing the old unit and plenum cutting it off and realigning the 30 box and reinstalling it.
I was going to do that when I bought the 30. When I saw just how much smaller the 30 was than the 22 was when I fitted it to the 22 case. I temp shimmed it up and was able to install the air in and out.

My thoughts as to why I wanted to try the old box is that my sink/ stove/ cabinets are all still in place and I do not know how to take them out or really want too unless I have to. It appears that I will have to to remove the plenen. I don't know this for a fact. The one guy said that the two units were nearly identical but my 30 is smaller in all dementions and does not have the pilot lite.

If I can get the box and plenem out without removing the cabinates I would be glad to do the job like illistrated but,

No problems with welding, soldering, light metal bending, tube bending but no talent at all with wood.

Note: though I am listed as a new member and this was my first post. I have had my airstream for over 10 years and have followed the forum for a long time.
thanx
rayk
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:47 PM   #6
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You can do it!

Hi Raymond, It takes some planing to line everything up. Metal work is about all you will need. I just did this conversion in my 67 Safari. I this case you have to remove the cabinets around the heater. To make the intake and exhaust line up I had to angle the new nt30 on the old nt22 base. Then boxed it in. Old to new installed.
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Old 05-16-2009, 07:45 AM   #7
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Here are few pics of my Overlander install (galley in place).
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:06 AM   #8
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NT 30 replacement heater

What did the NT30 heater wind up costing you?
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:12 AM   #9
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cost for used/tested nt30 plus reinteration of origional question

I got it from R&K rv products.

It was out of a hail damaged trailer that he was parting out for the frame

the cost was about $340 including shipping.

I found in on Ebay and R&K have a 100% possitive feedback.

Ronnie, did a fast shipment and when he got a lower shipping cost than estimated kicked back the difference.

Back to original question: Can anyone think of a problem or potential danger to using the origional NT22 case with the 30 guts.
I put the origional 22 back in it and tested it still cannot keep the pilot light lit.

It does not appear that I can remove the plenum and case without dismantling the Galley and I really do not feel that beings it is, though unhandsome, in quite good shape, and I doubt that I will be able to get it back in in a timely mannor or in as good as it is now.
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:37 PM   #10
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Raymond,

As per replies and pics, it can be done with a few modifications. There should be no danger involved provided you properly line up exhaust and hook up gas line securely.

I did it because it made no sense to build/fabricate new ductwork/plenum when modification seemed so doable.

Like silverleeper, I found that the intake/exhaust was slightly off the original but I was able fudge it with the Overlander, while I moved the box (galley was out of the way) on the Sovereign.

The fabrication took 1-2 hours for me.
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:02 AM   #11
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Ron,
Thanx,

rayk
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:37 AM   #12
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Furnace Replacement

Well Ray if you have to take the galley apart at least you can replace that lovely 70s orange/yellow formica counter top. Did on my Tradewind and also put real wood veneer over the plastic laminate. Looks much better.

Richard
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