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Old 04-03-2009, 05:53 PM   #1
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1978 29' Ambassador
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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NT-30 blower motor

Evidently dirt-dobbers (wasps) had invaded the chamber-clearing side of my NT-30 heater blower system and, while this elaborate insect nursery is a sweet idea, it effectively jammed the squirrel cage and burned up the plastic armature brush plate. To a crisp.
Need a new blower motor. The service manual says its a 230339 (NT-30M).
The motor itself says:
17 77 (probably a date code)
NT-32
American Bosch
MO-(illegible)61250A-12V
Inland doesn't have any.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:14 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by mojofilter View Post
Evidently dirt-dobbers (wasps) had invaded the chamber-clearing side of my NT-30 heater blower system and, while this elaborate insect nursery is a sweet idea, it effectively jammed the squirrel cage and burned up the plastic armature brush plate. To a crisp.
Need a new blower motor. The service manual says its a 230339 (NT-30M).
The motor itself says:
17 77 (probably a date code)
NT-32
American Bosch
MO-(illegible)61250A-12V
Inland doesn't have any.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
We don't have it, because it's no longer available.

But, there is a replacement available.
Andy
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:02 AM   #3
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Thanks Andy - The person I talked to didn't mention a replacement.
I shall call back.
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Old 04-04-2009, 09:39 AM   #4
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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Did you have the screens on, or did they get in another way?
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:05 PM   #5
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No bug screens. Matter of fact, I just saw that they're available while searching for a replacement motor. I'll add them when I rebuild the furnace.
I've learned that the replacement for the unavailable American Bosch motor (Airstream part number 230339) seems to be the Motor Products PE26109Q (231207).
Any other part of the AS need bug screens?
Thanks
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:23 PM   #6
Full Timers/Diesel power.
 
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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Those double screens on the outside have worked for us down south.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:20 PM   #7
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So how in the world do you get to the motor? Mine is slowly dying and it looks like a real biscuit to get to. Is there like a secret trap door or something?
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #8
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So how in the world do you get to the motor? Mine is slowly dying and it looks like a real biscuit to get to. Is there like a secret trap door or something?
You must remove the furnace.

Then it's a piece of cake to replace the motor, well, sort of.

While the furnace is out, remove the burner log, and remove all the dust and dirt, and rust as well, that has collected over the years, in the combustion chamber.

You will remove probably a couple of cups full of junk.

Remove the oriface and clean it too.

Then replace the motor with the necessary gaskets as well.

Andy
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:05 AM   #9
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1978 29' Ambassador
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Drboyd -
Did you ever get your heater pulled? This may be a little late but here's what I did:
Remove the exhaust flange from the outside. It doesn't keep you from pulling the heater out but it will help to reinstall.
Facing the heater from the toe-kick, remove the two big screws that hold the cover on and remove cover.
Mine has a brass gas nipple at the upper right corner that protrudes through the sheet metal heater inclosure. Instead of trying to remove the nipple, I cut the sheet metal from the front edge, back to the gas nipple hole. I made one cut to meet the top of the hole and then bent the metal down with needle nose so I could put it back.
There were two screws at the bottom front of the heater box that screwed into the sub floor. There is the electrical connector on the right (trailer aft on mine) side if the heater that pulls straight off - no tabs or release bits.
I then pulled the thing straight out.
From there it's pretty easy to see how to dig into the motor.
Take careful note as to the orientation of the two squirrel cages. I put the big one on backwards the first time. It will blow but not enough to raise the sail switch.
Andy has the motor and gaskets.
Good luck.
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