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Old 12-10-2010, 05:10 PM   #71
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I do have a heat vent in the bedroom. The way it works with the 30' twin layout, the area between the door and the wall is boxed in, so they put the heat outlet on the side of the box facing towards the center of the bedroom.

It's just that it doesn't give off enough heat.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:36 PM   #72
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The furnace in our Excella, like some others, has four round outlet holes. One is blocked off. One has a short hose to the living/kitchen area, one a longer hose to the center twin area, and one very long to the bath.

All air is being pushed by the fan in the furnace. Since air is much more easily pulled than pushed. the short hose to the living area supplies the most air. Less to the center bed area, and far less to the rear bath.

I just tried my bath roof vent fan idea, and it didn't seem to make any improvement. I think the answer will be the bilge blower. I would install the blower as close to the bath register as I can. By the time the air gets that far, temperature may not be an issue. If it does take out the blower, oh well. After all, the engine compartment on a runabout boat, where these blowers are used, can get plenty warm.

Worst case, I spend an hour or so, $25-$30 and get poor results. Best case, toasty showers in the winter.

I may just give it a try.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:39 AM   #73
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Jim I think it's a worthwhile experiment. They are cheap.

If you have problems with noise you could wrap the duct with acoustic foam.
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Old 12-11-2010, 12:42 PM   #74
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Someone said long ago they had a return, but I haven't seen one in our trailer. Perhaps the motorhomes or the 30+ trailers have them. My belief is the heating system is quite primitive and the design is to use brute force—lots of BTU's—to make up for it.

When there's an imbalance in home heating forced area system, there are usually (except in the cheapest ones) diverters inline to direct more or less flow where ducts split off. There should be diverters available for these ducts, but there may not be space for them.

This is an interesting thread. It seems that opening the belly pan is the only way (aside from taking up the floor) to see just what ductwork is around the tanks and how they are insulated. I expect, given Airstream's lack of HVAC knowledge, that heating and insulation are poorly done.

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Old 12-11-2010, 06:30 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Don't know, I believe Jammer's and mine would have that duct disappearing through the floor ahead of the front of the fresh tank too, if the hole is behind the microwave. I haven't seen it yet. Jammer? What do you think?
OK, it's actually a little farther forward, under the aftmost portion of the sink. I have no idea where it goes, but it doesn't pull out easily so perhaps it twists around and goes... somewhere? I don't quite understand what's down there that needs heat -- the tanks are farther aft, and the plumbing is above the floor at that point. Maybe it warms the floor. Maybe it comes out under the dinette. Who knows.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:40 PM   #76
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Found out how the heat gets to the gray and black tanks at the rear of the trailer.

The register box for the rear bath is located at the bottom of the curb side closet, beneath the false floor. I removed the trim door at the front of that area and found that the register box is fed by the 4' hose from the front of the trailer, as thought, but there are two 2" hoses out of that register box, one to the black tank area, one to the gray tank area. So, that one 4" hose is doing double duty. That may be why there is not a lot of warm air going into the bath. About half of it is going to the tanks. The bilge blower in the 4" hose may be a good idea.

The small hose from the furnace does heat the fresh water tank between the axles.

Sure glad I got that figured out, I guess.
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:00 PM   #77
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Have you tried partially blocking the short hose that heats the lounge area?

Since it's the shortest, it's logical that it is the path of least resistance, therefore, with the heaviest load at the very rear, it is allowing the bulk of the hot air into the lounge.

Block it partially and see what happens. Can't hurt, won't cost anything...
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:04 PM   #78
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Have you tried partially blocking the short hose that heats the lounge area?

Since it's the shortest, it's logical that it is the path of least resistance, therefore, with the heaviest load at the very rear, it is allowing the bulk of the hot air into the lounge.

Block it partially and see what happens. Can't hurt, won't cost anything...
If I understand your statement correctly, I think that's covered in earlier posts, both from the standpoint of the installation manual as well as Jammer's temp. numbers showing a level of heat at the furnace plenum which he felt was unacceptably high.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:06 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
If I understand your statement correctly, I think that's covered in earlier posts, both from the standpoint of the installation manual as well as Jammer's temp. numbers showing a level of heat at the furnace plenum which he felt was unacceptably high.
I am somewhat concerned with blocking off part or all of the register in the front of the trailer, as it is only about 12" long from the furnace, and the air at that point is very warm. However the air coming out at the bath is much, much cooler so using the bilge blower at that point should not be an issue. That air really cools down on the 18' journey through the hose along the floor, along the outside wall. Granted, turning the blower on should bring air a little faster, and perhaps a little warmer, but that is the point of the blower.
Also, the blower can remain off until warm air is needed in the bath. The fan blades in those blowers seem to have plenty of room for air to pass through when off.

Hey, if this doesn't work, I can install the blower inside the fridge vent near the roof to help there in warm weather.

How 'bout that? I know, that's another thread.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:18 PM   #80
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I am somewhat concerned with blocking off part or all of the register in the front of the trailer, as it is only about 12" long from the furnace, and the air at that point is very warm. However the air coming out at the bath is much, much cooler so using the bilge blower at that point should not be an issue. That air really cools down on the 18' journey through the hose along the floor, along the outside wall. Granted, turning the blower on should bring air a little faster, and perhaps a little warmer, but that is the point of the blower.
Also, the blower can remain off until warm air is needed in the bath. The fan blades in those blowers seem to have plenty of room for air to pass through when off.

Hey, if this doesn't work, I can install the blower inside the fridge vent near the roof to help there in warm weather.

How 'bout that? I know, that's another thread.
I think so too. "robbing" air from the LR vents by sucking more out to the rear should keep the plenum temps at or below their designed level. You would just be negating the friction of that long run to the BR or bath.

I'm not sure if the heat will hurt the bilge blower, or computer fan like in another post, but let us know how it works out.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:31 PM   #81
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I'm not sure if the heat will hurt the bilge blower, or computer fan like in another post, but let us know how it works out.
I really don't think heat will be an issue. We boated in the Sacramento Delta for thirty years. The engine compartment on a run-a bout boat can get very warm sitting in the sun in the summer.

If I do this, we'll all find out. I will certainly post my findings. Won't happen until after the first of the year, as we will be on the road until then. I really don't like to get into projects, even small ones, on the road if I can help it. It always seems that the one tool that will make the job easier has not made the trip.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:49 PM   #82
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Well you all inspired me to pull my AS apart to find out why I had very little heat

After spending the weekend on my side, back and belly trying to figure out this heating, I am more confused now. There seems no reasoning why the heat blasts the living space then there's no or little heat in the fb and bath.

I have a little more than a ten (10) degree difference between the two (2) areas. Nothing new everyone is reporting these numbers. However the FB has the thermostat and it's calling for heat and not getting it. Can we trick the thermostat somehow?

When the heat is running it's roaring in the galley area.

Lin.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:12 PM   #83
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OK gang another night for carving up a perfectly good new trailer. You folks with the 1975 Sovereigns who are wishing you had just bought a new traylah that didn't need any work... it's not like that...


The supplies showed up quickly from DWI and one other source. Pictured are the two sizes of duct, a 4x4x2 tee, a 4" Atwood duct adapter, and a 4x2 reducer. The Atwood duct adapter had to be ordered from another place because DWI doesn't sell them. In the end I did not need use the T. In addition to these materials I needed a 4" stainless steel clamp and a 2" stainless steel clamp, and a couple of sheet metal screws.

Tools required were a 2 5/8" hole saw, cordless drill, drill bits, a hammer and punch, and screwdrivers.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:19 PM   #84
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It turned out there wasn't enough clearance for two Ts so I ended up moving the 2" outlet on the furnace to the next position forward. This required punching out the knockout with a hammer and drift, fiddly to do with the furnace installed, but possible with perseverance. The 2" outlet was moved to this opening and the new 4" outlet installed in the aftward one from which the 2" outlet had been removed.

The outlets attach using a clever sort of bayonet arrangement but the mother ship put in a couple of screws in each one, too, just to be sure. In true mother ship fashion one of them didn't actually hit the furnace and so served no purpose. Start using a jig and predrilling them before assembly in a more controlled environment, guys. But I digress.

I followed the mother ship's lead and used a screw in each one in addition to the retention provided by the bayonet.

The completed shot does not show a 4" clamp because I was one short in my planning. Some other day.

The existing 2" duct that disappears into the floor is then reattached to the front outlet, and a new piece of 4" duct is attached and run aftward.
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