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Old 12-08-2010, 03:38 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
You could put an inline fan in the duct going aft to boost the flow They are available in a couple different sizes.

yellowTAIL™ 3” Blower - SHURflo
What a great idea. A bilge blower. Our 27' Excella has the furnace forward beneath the stove by the entry door. It's a long way to the rear bath, and it would be nice to sometimes have more heat there. One of these blowers can be installed somewhere convenient in the hose to the bath with it's own switch to be used only when extra heat is needed in the bath.

I'm looking into this.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:49 PM   #30
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There are two problems with the bilge blowers.

First of all, they draw 5.5 amps (for the 4" one).

Second, they're loud.

Nonetheless, something to consider.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #31
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There are two problems with the bilge blowers.

First of all, they draw 5.5 amps (for the 4" one).

Second, they're loud.

Nonetheless, something to consider.
In our trailer it will be located under the curb side twin, or in the bottom of the rear curb side closet. I doubt that it will be too loud if located under the bed, but even so, we will only run it for a few minutes before showering to get the bath nice and toasty.

Found them also made by Rule and Atwater on line from various suppliers starting at about $25 plus shipping for the 4".

If I do this, I will certainly post back and let folks know how it works out.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:00 PM   #32
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Also, they may not withstand the heat. The datasheet does not specify a maximum temperature, and the duct may easily reach 170 degrees.

http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/files/itemdoc12671.pdf
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:09 PM   #33
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Another thought would be to turn on the fan in the little round roof vent in the bath, and close the door. With the window closed, that increase the flow through the furnace duct near the floor and warm the bath.

I think I'll try that first.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:59 PM   #34
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i had a 84 30p avion with twin beds and rear bath. the po owner must needed more heat in the bath because the bath door when open it blocked the heat vent that was at the bottom of tub right behind the door when it was left open. so what he did was ad another vent in the center of the tub at the bottom of tub. that put two vents in the bath. stayed the same temp as the rest of trailer. avions have the same lay out as airstreams.
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:14 PM   #35
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since it headed to the 40's at night this week i thought i'd test using the computer fan in the bedroom outlet.

first i removed the outlet. the square fan did not fit in the round duct so i snapped the ends off the fan and made it round. it fit snugly into the outlet. i temporarily fed the wires through the outlet to test it.
i used a cheater cord plugged into one of the 12v accessory outlets.

using the infrared thermometer i bought today i had the following results:
outside temp = 55 degrees
outlet temp without fan = 105 degrees
outlet temp with fan = 117 degrees

with the fan on i could actually FEEL the warm air 1 foot away from the outlet. without the fan i can barely feel if the heat is on.

the fan without the heat being on. hums quite a bit in the enclosure where the outlet is located at the foot of the bed. wiring it to the blower fan would be a must. using a heat sensor might run the fan in the summer heat. with the blower fan on you can't hear the outlet fan.
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:17 PM   #36
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:10 PM   #37
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Ricky,

Is that a 4" computer fan?
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:17 PM   #38
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yes. i like to remove them from old computer power supplies. :-)
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:30 PM   #39
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yes. i like to remove them from old computer power supplies. :-)
Radio Shack carries them for about $20. I use one for the fridge compartment controlled by a home furnace blower thermal switch slipped inside the chimney sleeve.

There's got to be an automatic way of turning this duct application short of running a wire all the way up to the furnace blower circuit.

Actually, on my AS that may not be too hard, now that I think about it, using a fish wire. Thanks for the idea!
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #40
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I'm not sure I would want the fan supplying the bath to be connected to the furnace fan. I think I would prefer to have it on a separate circuit to run only when extra heat is wanted in the bath. Really don't need extra heat in the bath except for shower time.

Just my thought.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:47 PM   #41
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I'm not sure I would want the fan supplying the bath to be connected to the furnace fan. I think I would prefer to have it on a separate circuit to run only when extra heat is wanted in the bath. Really don't need extra heat in the bath except for shower time.

Just my thought.
My thought is the bedroom. I haven't been out in the kind of weather we're having now, but some have commented on the need for electric blankets, etc. My thought is having an automatic on and off controlled by the blower circuit, with an additional "master" switch in the BR. That way, I could turn it on at night and have it only run when the furnace comes on. then turn it off in the daytime with the master..
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:35 PM   #42
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Quote:
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There are cheaper sources for ductwork. Amazon has a couple of grades. Here's the better one, at $3 a foot:

Amazon.com: M-Kc Thermaflex Flexible Hvac Duct - 4 Inch Diameter R4.2: Home Improvement
I thought that the "vinyl over a spring" ducting had a higher resistance than the steel ducts, plus was more likely to gather dirt?

Turning to sports... In my '74, the ducting seams are sealed with what looked like paper with glue that dried out probably a year after installation. It leaked air like crazy.

Also, I noticed that where it passed under one of the singles in the middle sleeping area, there was a large round hole in the top (maybe 3"D) which might have been covered at one time by a slightly larger round metal disc I found on the floor near it. To warm my bed? ::shrug ::

Lastly, when I removed the original orange shag in the rear bath, I temporarily removed the vertical luan piece (that served as the skirt for the tub). The mouth of the duct that had an register fastened to that same skirt with another large hole in it. I suppose that this hole served to warm the area below the tub.

All these items served to reduce the airflow to the register in the bathroom to nearly zero. When I patched and closed the various openings, I was able to have a warm bathroom.

My point is, do you think that anything along these lines could be happening in your newish trailers?
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