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Old 03-03-2011, 12:13 PM   #169
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Thanks again Jammer, for all you experimentation. Over the winter I gathered all the parts, got the AS out of storage last week, and in about 2 hours I had my heat mod done! As I discussed above, I did get a shutter equipped vent for one of the LR vents, and now have two 4" ducts in the BR. EVEN HEAT THROUGHOUT!! Highly recommend this mod!
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:34 PM   #170
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Great thread. Just curious about pros/cons of using insulated 4" flex duct in place of the uninsulated 4" runs. Obvious con is it would require a little more space and may prevent some heating of pipes that run along the duct runs. However, I can't imagine this would be significant.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:29 AM   #171
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Great thread. Just curious about pros/cons of using insulated 4" flex duct in place of the uninsulated 4" runs. Obvious con is it would require a little more space and may prevent some heating of pipes that run along the duct runs. However, I can't imagine this would be significant.
I think it depends on the routing necessary. In my case, I had to make some really sharp tight turns to get in and around the shower pan area. As a result, even with the non-insulated duct, there was some squishing or narrowing of the cross section of the duct. I think insulated, in my case, would have substantially reduced airflow.

Since I was ADDING an additional duct, I don't think it was a safety concern (overheating), but it would have defeated, to some degree, the purpose of the additional run.

Also, I do want some heat to be given off under the shower and counter to keep any potential cold spots from freezing pipes.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #172
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Good point about possibly reducing airflow. What gets me is that my duct to the rear bedroom (and bath) runs through the water heater compartment, which is essentially open to the outdoors. Seems to me any warm air in the duct is likely reduced greatly on real cold nights. I suppose a better option may be to insulate that section of ductwork only, or seal up that compartment.

I've also thought about adding an extra run to the rear bedroom, but space is limited. I may try connecting a 4" duct to the old rectangular sheet metal run, which of course also runs above the outside wall of the water heater compartment, completely exposed to outdoor temps. I guess it time for sections of rigid foam and spray foam to seal things up....

Any reason why folks ran new duct for an additional run, as opposed to tapping into the old sheet metal run that goes from front to back?
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #173
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The new units are flexible ductwork throughout, direct from the furnace plenum.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:05 AM   #174
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I take it the new units use uninsulated 4" duct?
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:09 AM   #175
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I take it the new units use uninsulated 4" duct?
Yes, but I don't have any that is exposed to the outdoors in my AS. I, like you, would look into insulating the outside of those areas with something. Pics would help me to understand the two areas you are dealing with...but, I would thing maybe fiberglass with foil bubble taped around it maybe?????

Also, one run of 2" uninsulated duct down into the belly right at the furnace and run to the tank compartments. If I ever have the belly pan off, I will insulate that run and improve the insulation around the tanks, but that'll be a side job to any necessary job that may come up. Not interested in tearing into the belly ONLY to insulate.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:25 AM   #176
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No pics here, and I'm a couple hours from the Airstream currently. When you open the access door to the water heater, if you look to the right or toward the front of the trailer, you can see where the ducts and pipes run behind the center bath shower and along the backside of the kitchen galley until they terminate under the stove at the furnace. If you look above and to the left, you can see where the rear bedroom duct travels above the water heater (under the bathroom sink) and to the rear bedroom wall.

The arrangement typically works OK on cold nights, so I haven't really worried about it. However, I began to think about how much propane I am probably wasting. I think separating the water heater compartment from the duct and adjacent plumping would help. However, the portion of the lines running immediately to and from the water heater would then be isolated from the current ducts. Hopefully there would be enough residual heat from the water heater to keep this specific section of the lines from freezing. That, or I'd improve one situation and end up compromising another.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:13 AM   #177
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Great thread. Just curious about pros/cons of using insulated 4" flex duct in place of the uninsulated 4" runs. Obvious con is it would require a little more space and may prevent some heating of pipes that run along the duct runs. However, I can't imagine this would be significant.
As dznf0g notes, insulated 4" flex duct doesn't fit in these trailers. There are a number of types available but they are typically at least 6" in outside diameter, and there just isn't room. The uninsulated ducts are themselves a tight fit.

At one point I tried wrapping a thinner layer of fiberglass pipe insulation around the ducts but there wasn't room to do that consistently.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:22 AM   #178
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Any reason why folks ran new duct for an additional run, as opposed to tapping into the old sheet metal run that goes from front to back?
The new units use uninsulated 4" flexible duct throughout and don't have a sheet metal plenum. I thought about installing such an arrangement as an upgrade, but it would be an enormous amount of work and there isn't quite enough clear area to make it workable -- the ducts have to run along the floor near the wall under the galley cabinetry and range, and then have to move towards the center of the trailer to clear the wheel wells.

In the newer trailers the ducts run entirely in interior space albeit enclosed. As such the heat loss from the ductwork only affects the distribution of heat within the trailer and doesn't cause losses to outdoors. Some of the heat loss is desirable insofar as the area containing the water pump does need to be kept warm as does the shower.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:08 PM   #179
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Since I have access to the original sheet metal duct run that terminates in the rear bedroom, I may try attaching a 4" duct to it for extra heat. I currently have a single 4" run to the bedroom and have experienced the same issues you have described in this thread. The sheet metal run is approximately 2.5"-3" deep by a foot tall. Would it be wise to attach the 4" run at a gradual angle using an angled boot, or would a direct fit to the side of the metal run (at 90 degree angle) be alright? I thought an angled boot might help reduce static pressure. I suppose whatever I do can only help.

In my 1979 Sovereign the water pump and plumbing from the city inlet are in the bottom of a closet on the opposite side of the trailer. Airstream did leave an opening along the toe kick, so adequate heat does appear to passively get into that area. It does have quite a chill though when the closet doors are opened.
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:40 PM   #180
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Another "on the road" report"

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Well gang, we have been in Texas since Tuesday. Freezing temps much of the time during the day and every night until last night here on
South Padre Island.
Electricity went out here on the island Thursday at 8 pm, and didn't come back until Friday about 3 pm. Thursday night I set the furnace thermostat to 50. The furnace cycled all night without running the batteries down. Friday morning I hooked up the Honda and got everything up again.

The fun part was the bilge blower fan supplying nice warm air to the rear bath on demand. Nice and toasty for the evening showers.

Love it, love it, love it.
Well, It's been three years since I installed the bilge blower to move heat into the rear bath of our 1983 27' Excella. It still works well. Has never had a problem of any kind after hundreds of uses. With the furnace hot, it heats the rear bath in a couple of minutes.

Still love it.

Cheers, Jim
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:45 PM   #181
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We use one of these any time we want to move heat or cold from front to back or visa versa. We just set it up on the hallway floor. When not in use (most of the time) it stores at back of closet. We been very pleased with its versatility.

FanTastic Vent - Product - Endless Breeze

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Old 01-06-2014, 11:39 PM   #182
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We use one of these any time we want to move heat or cold from front to back or visa versa. We just set it up on the hallway floor. When not in use (most of the time) it stores at back of closet. We been very pleased with its versatility.

FanTastic Vent - Product - Endless Breeze

Ken
+1 for us as well ...trouble free for us for the last several years, but the company also has a great warranty.
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