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Old 06-22-2015, 08:52 AM   #1
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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Newer Dometic AC is one noisy bugger, any ideas to quiet it down?

Just got back from the campground yesterday. Temps were in the 90's and the site did not have any shade. AC worked continuously, during the day kept the temps inside in the upper 70's give or take. At night it ran in auto mode and would cycle maybe once every half hour for about 5 mins, but when it turns on, you know about it. In general it is a noisy bugger inside and is quite intrusive. The last night there, I left the fan setting on low rather than auto so the fan ran all night which makes it more like white noise which you can get used to and ignore rather than the abrupt start and stop.

So the real question I have is this, what can you do to reduce the transmitted noise and vibrations of these units into the big sounding board that is the shell of the trailer? This ac transmits so much vibration that things like the grates on stove vibrate and buzz. It has the standard rubber mount pad on the bottom of the unit that seals it up on the outside. Maybe if I loosen up on the hold down bolts that would help a bit? It's really obnoxious after you have been listening to it awhile, and is so nice when its off and things are much quieter. Anybody have a reasonable practical solution that might work?
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:58 AM   #2
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If the foam seal is in good shape, I think it would be a good idea to try loosening the bolts a bit to see if that makes a difference. Also, if you can do it, I'd take the cover off of the roof unit and watch it run. Maybe there's some kind of problem with the spinning parts that are making an out-of-balance condition? Loosening the bolts might help, but I'm thinking that will just be masking the real source of the problem.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:08 AM   #3
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Our AC is definitely loud. The newer ducted AC units are suppose to much better


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Old 06-22-2015, 09:11 AM   #4
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Well that wasn't suppose to post.

Our unit is loud as well, but it doesn't cause other components in the Airstream to vibrate. Could be something wrong with your AC? That said we prefer to sleep with white noise and always leave the fan on low. Therefore we don't notice the compressor turning on and off.


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Old 06-22-2015, 09:20 AM   #5
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Vibration from the unit are more likely to transmit through the bolts than the seal. I would remove the bolts one at a time and put a metal fender washer and urethane bushing on the bolt before replacing them. Yo may have to get longer bolts to accommodate a bushing that will attenuate the mechanical transmission.

While the bolts are out remove the filter run the unit and feel up into the unit to see if there is noticeable vibration. Do this test with just the fan running and then with the compressor running. This may give some info as to the source.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:24 AM   #6
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The unit was bought last year as used but was essentially new, never used. The foam gasket was all in perfect shape, but it has always been on the noisy side, especially when the compressor was running. It's one of the low profile units, 13.5K BTU, and I've read some that folks find them to be noiser than the older style units.

I think what I will try first is to pull the bottom cover back off and loosen up on the four hold down bolts till I can see some expansion of the foam and then see how it sounds. I may go ahead and see if I can order some sort of acoustic isolation foam or material and judiciously use it to help isolate the bolts that may be transmitting much of the vibration. With this thing running, everything seems to buzz in harmony, including the inside cover, the stove grates and a loose metal part in the screen door. I'm not sure it will ever be in the realm of "quiet" but hopefully will be less intrusive.
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:36 AM   #7
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When Dometic ships an auxiliary drip kit (that's the one with the catch cups for the condensate), they include an additional foam gasket. There should be 2 of these on a penguin unit, along with additional foam pieces included in the kit.

For some unknown reason, Airstream insists on using just one gasket. This positions the drain cups directly on the roof, and they provide an additional hard surface that will transmit the vibrations.

If it were my trailer, I would remove the A/C unit from the roof and replace the gasket with a new one. I would then re-install the drain kit according to Dometic's instructions, including the second gasket.

The addition of urethane bushings and fender washers might also help with the vibration problem.

Those long bolts are 1/4 - 20 and should have sufficient length for the bushings, as the Airstream roof is only 2" thick.


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Old 06-22-2015, 10:40 AM   #8
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Greenwich , New York
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They sure are noisy!

I have the same unit, I installed it on my 69 Trade Wind. We just got back from a 2 week trip where we used it almost all the time. It is queit outside the trailer but very loud in. I have a little vibration, but not as bad as yours. If you touch the walls when the unit is running you can feel it. I will be very intrested to see what you come up with.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:04 AM   #9
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In my trailer there was a lot of noise from the corners on the inner unit where it contacts the inner skin. I slid some strips of thin cardboard into the gap at the corners. It lessens the rattle.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:06 AM   #10
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My first move woulpd be to lift the ccover and then inspect the unit while running to see whet
her there is somthing obvious. The compressor is the likely culprit, but maybe it is just knocking against he frame. Maybe during the install the frame got twisted or the compressor mount is loose.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:27 AM   #11
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Lewster is so correct on this issue. I had the same problem starting with a new 2006 with 13.5 w heat pump (so don't blame this on new models). Live in California so had to upgrade to 15K. The dealer that changed the unit installed it properly with two gaskets. Still have the same trailer. Problem solved.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
For some unknown reason, Airstream insists on using just one gasket. This positions the drain cups directly on the roof, and they provide an additional hard surface that will transmit the vibrations.
As a marketing technique to sell new ducted Airstreams?
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
Just got back from the campground yesterday. Temps were in the 90's and the site did not have any shade. AC worked continuously, during the day kept the temps inside in the upper 70's give or take. At night it ran in auto mode and would cycle maybe once every half hour for about 5 mins, but when it turns on, you know about it. In general it is a noisy bugger inside and is quite intrusive. The last night there, I left the fan setting on low rather than auto so the fan ran all night which makes it more like white noise which you can get used to and ignore rather than the abrupt start and stop.

So the real question I have is this, what can you do to reduce the transmitted noise and vibrations of these units into the big sounding board that is the shell of the trailer? This ac transmits so much vibration that things like the grates on stove vibrate and buzz. It has the standard rubber mount pad on the bottom of the unit that seals it up on the outside. Maybe if I loosen up on the hold down bolts that would help a bit? It's really obnoxious after you have been listening to it awhile, and is so nice when its off and things are much quieter. Anybody have a reasonable practical solution that might work?
Your '73 model has more curve to the roof than wide body trailers so that could be a contributing factor. The gasket will be compressed more near the center and less nearer the sides. I think Lewster gave you the best advice, two gaskets.

The '73 that I had several years ago did not have a frame around the A/C roof opening when I purchased it. A technician from ODM added wood blocking when he changed out the A/C unit. That allowed less movement of the unit and helped make it quieter. You might want to check yours to see if it has blocking.

I don't have the same A/C unit as you have now, but I had a vibration problem in my 2000 Safari. When I replaced the pan a few years ago I realized the bolts had loosened as the gasket compressed, from aging over the years I assume. The A/C unit actually could/did move as the compressor cycled. When I replaced the pan and foam gasket, then tightened bolts correctly it was much improved.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:18 PM   #14
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I just replaced an older (5 years) Penguin with the newer Penguin II. I find it to be slightly quieter than the older Penguin. I used the Lewster mounting method.
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Old 06-22-2015, 01:25 PM   #15
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I wish I would have gotten Jackson Center to install the 2 gaskets when I was there last September.
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
When Dometic ships an auxiliary drip kit (that's the one with the catch cups for the condensate), they include an additional foam gasket. There should be 2 of these on a penguin unit, along with additional foam pieces included in the kit.

For some unknown reason, Airstream insists on using just one gasket. This positions the drain cups directly on the roof, and they provide an additional hard surface that will transmit the vibrations.

If it were my trailer, I would remove the A/C unit from the roof and replace the gasket with a new one. I would then re-install the drain kit according to Dometic's instructions, including the second gasket.

The addition of urethane bushings and fender washers might also help with the vibration problem.

Those long bolts are 1/4 - 20 and should have sufficient length for the bushings, as the Airstream roof is only 2" thick.


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Lew
I do have a question about the drain kit. We currently dont have one installed, and when I mounted the unit a year ago, there wasnt or sure didnt seem to be any drain lines that went in between the walls to drain down below. If there are no lines then where does the condensate go? BTW, we noticed a bit of a drip coming down one side this last weekend. Looked like the wiring that was tucked up in the cavity was somehow acting as the point at which condensate was forming. Im guessing this kit would help to alleviate that?

Also, is there a difference in the quality of the gaskets that are OEM or manufacturer specific like Dometic or do the aftermarket gaskets work just as well. Any recommendations as to a source online for the drain kit and or gaskets?
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:28 PM   #17
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I have a problem. I have a 1973 AS International. 31ft. I need to install a new a/c unit. I cannot read the tag on the old original unit at least I think its original. I've been looking at all the units my problem is I dont know the difference between a ducted and non ducted a/c unit I need to know what one. I have and is it 13.5 or 15. Btu. Does anyone know of a good unit at a good price? Thanks for any info.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:24 PM   #18
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From the questions I have asked and he has answered.. listen to the Lewster.. the guy knows what he is talking about. If he says 2 gaskets, use them..Richard
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:30 PM   #19
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Newer Dometic AC is one noisy bugger, any ideas to quiet it down?

You will need a non ducted unit, the bigger the better IMO.

If possible you might consider fixing the Armstrong if possible.

Mine is still working, and working hard today.... 1972...
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:16 PM   #20
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There was no condensate drain pipe in my '73. It drained onto the roof then down the side of the trailer.
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