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Old 06-22-2015, 02:25 PM   #15
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I wish I would have gotten Jackson Center to install the 2 gaskets when I was there last September.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
When Dometic ships an auxiliary drip kit (that's the one with the catch cups for the condensate), they include an additional foam gasket. There should be 2 of these on a penguin unit, along with additional foam pieces included in the kit.

For some unknown reason, Airstream insists on using just one gasket. This positions the drain cups directly on the roof, and they provide an additional hard surface that will transmit the vibrations.

If it were my trailer, I would remove the A/C unit from the roof and replace the gasket with a new one. I would then re-install the drain kit according to Dometic's instructions, including the second gasket.

The addition of urethane bushings and fender washers might also help with the vibration problem.

Those long bolts are 1/4 - 20 and should have sufficient length for the bushings, as the Airstream roof is only 2" thick.


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Lew
I do have a question about the drain kit. We currently dont have one installed, and when I mounted the unit a year ago, there wasnt or sure didnt seem to be any drain lines that went in between the walls to drain down below. If there are no lines then where does the condensate go? BTW, we noticed a bit of a drip coming down one side this last weekend. Looked like the wiring that was tucked up in the cavity was somehow acting as the point at which condensate was forming. Im guessing this kit would help to alleviate that?

Also, is there a difference in the quality of the gaskets that are OEM or manufacturer specific like Dometic or do the aftermarket gaskets work just as well. Any recommendations as to a source online for the drain kit and or gaskets?
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:28 PM   #17
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I have a problem. I have a 1973 AS International. 31ft. I need to install a new a/c unit. I cannot read the tag on the old original unit at least I think its original. I've been looking at all the units my problem is I dont know the difference between a ducted and non ducted a/c unit I need to know what one. I have and is it 13.5 or 15. Btu. Does anyone know of a good unit at a good price? Thanks for any info.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:24 PM   #18
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From the questions I have asked and he has answered.. listen to the Lewster.. the guy knows what he is talking about. If he says 2 gaskets, use them..Richard
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:30 PM   #19
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Newer Dometic AC is one noisy bugger, any ideas to quiet it down?

You will need a non ducted unit, the bigger the better IMO.

If possible you might consider fixing the Armstrong if possible.

Mine is still working, and working hard today.... 1972...
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:16 PM   #20
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There was no condensate drain pipe in my '73. It drained onto the roof then down the side of the trailer.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:19 PM   #21
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There was no condensate drain pipe in my '73. It drained onto the roof then down the side of the trailer.
That's what I'm thinking is the case here, and if so, can you use the drainage kit Lew is suggesting?
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:43 PM   #22
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If you don't have an interior condensate tube, there is no need for the drain kit. The unit will simply drain on your roof and flow down the sides thru the designated drainage holes in the base pan.

Due to the curvature of the Airstream roof, I would still use a second gasket to compensate for the curve and better isolate the unit from the roof.


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Old 06-22-2015, 07:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
Lew
I do have a question about the drain kit. We currently dont have one installed, and when I mounted the unit a year ago, there wasnt or sure didnt seem to be any drain lines that went in between the walls to drain down below. If there are no lines then where does the condensate go? BTW, we noticed a bit of a drip coming down one side this last weekend. Looked like the wiring that was tucked up in the cavity was somehow acting as the point at which condensate was forming. Im guessing this kit would help to alleviate that?

Also, is there a difference in the quality of the gaskets that are OEM or manufacturer specific like Dometic or do the aftermarket gaskets work just as well. Any recommendations as to a source online for the drain kit and or gaskets?

Any well stocked RV dealer should have the drain kits and extra gaskets, or can easily order them from Dometic. I have used gaskets from varying sources that were different types of foam and they all work well.

The key is to compress the gaskets to 50% of their original thickness.


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Old 06-22-2015, 07:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
Lew
I do have a question about the drain kit. We currently dont have one installed, and when I mounted the unit a year ago, there wasnt or sure didnt seem to be any drain lines that went in between the walls to drain down below. If there are no lines then where does the condensate go? BTW, we noticed a bit of a drip coming down one side this last weekend. Looked like the wiring that was tucked up in the cavity was somehow acting as the point at which condensate was forming. Im guessing this kit would help to alleviate that?

Also, is there a difference in the quality of the gaskets that are OEM or manufacturer specific like Dometic or do the aftermarket gaskets work just as well. Any recommendations as to a source online for the drain kit and or gaskets?

Any well stocked RV dealer should have the drain kits and extra gaskets, or can easily order them from Dometic. I have used gaskets from varying sources that were different types of foam and they all work well.

The key is to compress the gaskets to 50% of their original thickness for a proper seal.


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Old 06-22-2015, 07:51 PM   #25
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PS: the upper units of any manufacturer are all the same with regard to their intended usage (whether direct vent or ducted).

It's the 'lower units' that make the difference in how the exhaust and intake air is channeled.


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Old 06-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #26
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The stock Armstrong should have had a drain pipe.
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:56 AM   #27
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Hey. Lew. Thanks for advice on my unit. I need non ducted and bigger the better.
I any going to try to get the unit I have going. I tried to get it going. I just seemed
To hum and no fan on I turned the fan motor and the fan didnt take off. Any how. I will look
Into it farther. If I do get it running and it seem to be ok can. I still buy an outside cover
And air filters they are rectangular on each side of inside cover.? Thanks again.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:34 AM   #28
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I pulled down the inside trim last night after it cooled down outside. Looking at the current gasket, its not all that compressed, even after loosening up on the three bolts that hold the outside unit down to the roof, its probably about a 3/4" thickness. I ran it with the bolts loosened and the lower trim off and while it is less noisy, there is still a pretty consistent harmonic that transmits through the trailer.

Looking online, I decided to go with a product called IsolateIt, sold through amazon, and make up a lower gasket out of that to put between the roof and the original gasket. I ordered the 50 duro grade and will see if that does a better job of isolating the vibrations from the unit to the roof. I'll also take some smaller pieces and use them to try and isolate the hold down bars where the touch the inner skin and will create pads for the corners of the inner cover and all the points that touch the inner skin. I think tht is about as much as I can do to quiet it down. Since its not a continuous gasket, I'll either caulk the corners or see if they can be glued together to make a gasket the same size as the original.

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