new Dometic A/C pops breaker immediately

[tcrum]

my new 2 years old Dometic A/C pops he breaker almost immediately after the condenser kicks on? It worked last week? Any ideas?

[Jammer]

No substitute for being there for this kind of thing.

I would start by measuring the amp draw of the A/C.

[J. Morgan]

I would start by checking the capacitors,

[Piggy Bank]

Curious if you were at the same place last week and this week?

[tcrum]

yes, same place. It was plugged up to a dedicated 30 amp plug. Ran fine. Then went camping last weekend. Drove about 800 miles, didn't use the air while camping. Came home plugged it back up and the problem started. At first I thought it was the 30 amp extension cord so swapped it out and still have the problem.

[J. Morgan]

Going by your description it is probably going to be one of three things.

A dead short in the wires leading to the compressor or condenser fan.

Bad capacitor(s)

Bad / seized compressor.

Since it is only two years old, I would look real hard for a short and for bad capacitors.

(Also, since your a/c is a newer unit I suppose it could be a bad control board maybe)

[idroba]

It also might still be covered by a warrantee from the manufacturer. Some have 3 to 5 years on the compressor and refrigerant system. I would check your papers to see at least.

[lewster]

Dometic has a standard 2 year factory warranty on the entire unit. A supplemental policy is also available from Dometic that extends the original warranty to 4 years, with the 5th year parts only.

My educated guess ( as I'm not there to actually test your unit) would be that your compressor rotor is locked and as soon as the compressor is energized, it draws the rated LRA amps (Locked Rotor Amps) that is listed on the manufacturers label.

If you have a tech check the amp draw, they will probably see a transient amp draw of 50+ amps (depending on the rating on the label) that will open it's 20 amp circuit breaker. If this is the case, your A/C unit needs to be replaced.

[bel73]

Before you get too deep into your problem try a new breaker. Quick, cheap and easy test you can do yourself.

[tcrum]

tried the new breaker. Same problem. Unit drew 61.4 amps when the breaker popped. Dealer says it needs to be replaced. Calling Dometic in the morning.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by tcrum

tried the new breaker. Same problem. Unit drew 61.4 amps when the breaker popped. Dealer says it needs to be replaced. Calling Dometic in the morning.

Told ya!

[J. Morgan]

To bad that these things are seemingly too difficult to fix.

We live in a deliberately disposable society. It is kind of sad.

[lewster]

Replacing a locked compressor is a 3-4 hour job 'if one knows what one is doing'. Almost no RV techs have this knowledge and less hold an ARI license to even handle refrigerants.

Couple that with the cost of a new compressor (if you can even get one for the newer units), the costs of recovering the refrigerant, soldering and testing the system for leaks and oh, forgot to mention that these systems have no process valves, so piercing valves most be used initially to drain the system and then Schrader valves soldered in their place, then re-charger and test again.

Unfortunately, much more economical to simply replace the unit in it's entirety.

[J. Morgan]

I am sure, but these units didn't have to be designed and built in such a manner that servicing is not cost effective.

I think that if I had bought an air conditioner that failed after a little over two years I would try real hard to buy a different brand. In fact , I would make all reasonable attempts to boycott the entire product line for life.

My Armstrong is 42 years old, it is cold, quiet, and repairable.

I can't be for sure, but I expect it still has the original compressor.