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Silver Goose · 02-13-2012, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck

Curious about this: I noticed that in the Dometic sales info that the heat pump shuts off at 40f, and switches over to your furnace. What if you don't have a furnace, and its colder than 40? does it just "not work"? ...

It looks like no one else has taken a stab at this. I think we all understand that heat pumps become less efficient as the outside temperature drops. The control board utilizes a thermal sensor topside to decide when to switch over to furnace mode. At that point the control board provides a DC voltage to the furnace just as if the old style thermostat had called for heat. It would seem possible to install a dedicated 110v outlet operated by an appropriate relay. The control board would think there was a standard furnace attached but it would really be switching on an outlet the electric heater was plugged into. This is probably not supported by Dometic, but it seems to be do-able. A downside is that without the ducted heat, none would be distributed to the plumbing. Any other thoughts on Chuck's question?

Chuck · 02-13-2012, 08:39 PM

Goose, I think Lew pretty much covered it: rv heat pump isn't going to be a viable alternative to a furnace, even if it did have a heat-strip. I'm not much concerned with the nifty switch-over feature, itself. (fwiw, there was never any ducted heat to the waste tank on my particular trailer, anyway, as it didn't come from the factory with any tanks below the floor; the black tank sits "on" the floor, so its part of the interior of the trailer. Of course, I'm planning on changing all that.

even so, its not something I think is really worth the trouble to concoct, unless you're planning on going out in very low temps, (way below 32F), and staying there for some time. But I digress...).

John: your trailer was originally equipped with a condensate drain tube; I found mine a couple of years ago when I had the ceiling panel down; its was tucked up there out of the way, just forward of the a/c; runs down the street side wall just forward of the street side wheel well. There's nothing to hook it up to on the a/c, though. (also an after-market Coleman).

moparjohn · 02-14-2012, 07:11 AM

Chuck,
If I get a new A/C with one of those pans, would I be able to use the pan with the drain tube? MPJ

Chuck · 02-14-2012, 02:35 PM

That's the idea, anyway.

no direct experience with this, myself, but I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't be able to connect the drain tube.

slowmover · 02-15-2012, 10:37 AM

A friend in the A/C business (and RV'er) recommended COLEMAN as being best built, overall, but to especially avoid ADVENT, the Chinese knock-off (I was looking for cheapest 15k A/C).

I, too, prefer the low-profile units.

.

perryg114 · 02-17-2012, 09:24 AM

I am on the fence about the Dometic. I am reading too many posts about Dometics not working correctly but most seem to be heat pumps. Maybe I should just pull my old Coleman and do a complete referb on it as opposed to getting a new one and having it die as soon as the warrantee runs out. I wonder if the new units are all aluminum tubing as opposed to the older copper systems. The compressor on my old Coleman works but the rest of the unit is pretty sad.

Perry

slowmover · 02-17-2012, 11:33 AM

You can also look at the more HD versions: marine, big truck, etc. Changes in materials, improved coatings, etc. Cost is a few hundred more.

herrick51 · 02-17-2012, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

OK I have searched the threads and now I want to know...what would be the best a/c for me? I know nothing about the subject. After reading and asking questions I am still unsure. I am kinda leaning towards the Dometic and I like low profile. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!

Hi,
You might wish to contact the engineering dept. at the manuf.of your choice and inquire about the sound levels of low profile vs standard height. Generrally speaking,when you decrease the plenum,the resulting turbulence increases noise level inside conditioned space.

marzboy · 02-22-2012, 09:52 AM

Hello all thanks to all for chimeing in. I have decided to go Dometic Penguin. Not sure if I'm going with the Heat pump or not yet. It either uses a single zone tstat or the CCC (comfort control center). Dometic is really vague about their products. Either way I like the low profile of the Penguin and they both have the same dimensions regarding the roof opening. My plan is to:
1) Remove A/C (done)
2) Clean and prep (done
3)Patch the roof and make the existing opening smaller (done)
4) Fix broken rivets in the roof stringers (done)
5) bend some additional support stringers out of some scrap 5052 .032
6) make a brace for the opening out of some scrap MGP
7) Hopefully get the unit in a couple weeks and lure my friend Paul back with some Beer and Dans Subs.
I am not going to buck the rivets in the patch til I get the unit for some last minute adjustments.
Will post more, stay tuned!

marzboy · 03-13-2012, 08:26 AM

Ok people I went with the Dometic Penguin II with no heat pump. Pretty straight forward install. Built a 14 1/4"X14 1/4" wood frame out of some Scrap MGP that I sealed with some left over West Systems Epoxy. I made a patch out of some left over 5052 from the belly pan. Drilled, sealed and riveted to the roof, then installed the new a/c. Pretty easy which scares me a little....

FC7039 · 03-13-2012, 12:43 PM

What about the inside? Do you have pictures of the drain pan?

marzboy · 03-13-2012, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC7039

What about the inside? Do you have pictures of the drain pan?

I havent taken any pics of the inside yet. There is no drain pan. I will be hooking up a drain wnder the skin thru the floor. Iwill post more pics when I do the drain.

FC7039 · 03-14-2012, 11:40 AM

How much does the AC weigh and did you just muscle it up there while standing on your scaffold?

I am confused about the drain pan. There are a couple mentions of differnet pans/cups. What is needed and not needed? Do the pans aleviate the need for a drain hose? I do not have a drian in my trailer wall and would have to do major interior removals to add one.

Thanks for letting me drill you for answers, but I am right behind you on installing an AC and am glad for the advise.

Gene

perryg114 · 03-14-2012, 02:05 PM

The low profile that he purchased has to use the Airstream supplied drain pan. The Briskair I believe will use a kit supplied by Dometic for Airstreams.

Perry

marzboy · 03-17-2012, 08:11 AM

I might be mistaken but I was advised to fore go the pan and do a drain tube down the interior wall of my trailer. I hope that was correct because I don't want to get up there and do that again!
The weight of the unit is a fraction of the old monstrosity ( net weight 110lbs). It was pretty easy for my friend and I to get it up on the scaffold an set it into place.

Melody Ranch · 03-17-2012, 08:23 AM

Don't forget to drill a hole or two in the wood framing for the electrical access and the drain line. It is also much easier to feed the drain line without the AC in position.

perryg114 · 03-17-2012, 08:37 AM

The drain tube should be there already. The pan catches the water and funnels it into the tube. I think the pan is your only option for catching condensate on the low profile Dometics. I thought we covered this already?

Perry

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

I might be mistaken but I was advised to fore go the pan and do a drain tube down the interior wall of my trailer. I hope that was correct because I don't want to get up there and do that again!
The weight of the unit is a fraction of the old monstrosity ( net weight 110lbs). It was pretty easy for my friend and I to get it up on the scaffold an set it into place.

marzboy · 03-27-2012, 10:13 PM

Due to my inexperience in all things trailer and a little misunderstanding with a vendor, I had to remove the A/C unit to add a drip kit. Promptly followed with several shots of Tequila. Please file under rookie mistake.