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Old 07-11-2012, 12:02 PM   #71
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1968 24' Tradewind
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We recently installed a 15k btu colman unit on our 68 tradewind......ran the condensate tube into/through the tank vent......works great! No water down the side or doing tube gymnastics trying to fish through the wall........

jack
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:59 PM   #72
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Ranch Dude you are genius.

Perry
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #73
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just dont tell my wife......i have an image to keep up.

cheers
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:36 PM   #74
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just dont tell my wife......i have an image to keep up.

cheers
She wouldn't believe it anyway.

Anyway, I agree with Perry. Very good solution.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:46 PM   #75
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Very true....she would not believe............its much safer (and smarter) to let them believe they are running the show...........right?
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:37 PM   #76
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A/C drain tube

I have a 2001 Classic w/slide 30'. I have decided to put a penguin unit in the back bedroom where the fantastic fan now resides. I would like to move the F/Fan forward close to the a/c unit, is this doable? When both a/c units are not needed, I like both of the F/Fans moving air around.
I was told by one installer of A/C units that the majority of those putting a second unit in the back of an airstream just let the condensation run off the top of the trailer and down the sides. He says that to remove the interior parts to run a line for the drain would add about $500.00. Does anyone have a problem with that method? Is this the common procedure to deal with the condensate?
Thanks for any input.
Chipster
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:20 PM   #77
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The condensate will eventually stain as it runs down the side.....not the best solution IMO.....

Cheers
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:31 PM   #78
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I am thinking that I will run the drain inside the trailer. I only need to get it from the AC to a nearby closet. I think I can work up a cover for the tube that will not look that out of place. Chipster, you ay want to do this in place of having it run over the outer skin.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:25 PM   #79
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On my Cloud I framed the 14in AC hole with 2 x 4 wood front and back and then 2 x2 on the sides. I had the wires already run to the rear of the hole so I just drilled thru the 2 x 4 and fed the wire to the access. Then on the front left side of the hole I cut (drilled) a 1in hole to align a drain hose thru to the access and the location to align with the drain pan drain fitting. I then ran the drain hose straight out the side, down the space between the skins to where it stopped at the side stringer. That spot is located at the side inside of the upper cabinet. At that point I drilled a large hole and cut a bout 2inch flange which would act as a "flap" to the hole. Then I fed a heavy, very heavy steel wire (almost a rod) thru the tube, from the access hole. This allowed me to maneuver the tube to the hole/flange where I could pull it back to the inside area at the rear of the cabinet. Then removing the rod. From there I fed and secured the tube to the back of the cabinet to the rear, thru the closet wall where I bent it downward and exited thru a hole in the floor and belly pan to drain behind the wheel well. You cannot see the drain at all and it works great.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:26 PM   #80
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I have rigid foam as insulation. I was thinking to "drill" this out via a serated edge of a PEX tube. That is a good idea that I only need to go through the skins into the closet, as I planned outside the skin. That should not be too much of an issue. Get down as far as I can, then pull through the wall.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #81
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I have the AC on the roof. I laid a long aluminum ladder at a gradual slope and put a piece of plywood down, slid the AC to the roof where I had a 2x12 coming off the ladder across the roof.

The AC has a junction box for the 120V. It says to mount this to the framing. There does not appear to be space for this inside the 14x14 hole and it is thicker than the wall. Did anyone just remove the box?

I also have a single zone LCD t-stat that accepts 3 wires, 12v + and -, and a comm. What from the AC goes to the comm?

a note, the drain cups are visible and not the same color as the rest. The drain pan from Airstream might be a better look.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:14 AM   #82
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I have the AC on the roof. I laid a long aluminum ladder at a gradual slope and put a piece of plywood down, slid the AC to the roof where I had a 2x12 coming off the ladder across the roof.

The AC has a junction box for the 120V. It says to mount this to the framing. There does not appear to be space for this inside the 14x14 hole and it is thicker than the wall. Did anyone just remove the box?

I also have a single zone LCD t-stat that accepts 3 wires, 12v + and -, and a comm. What from the AC goes to the comm?

a note, the drain cups are visible and not the same color as the rest. The drain pan from Airstream might be a better look.
I wouldnt remove that junction box because that is where you conect to the 110v. I believe it has to be there to code, all 110v should be connected in a protected box. The com wires in mine go to the tstat and the furnace. I used 18 ga 7 wire (sprinkler wire) there is also a telephone like cable that is used for a more fancy type of tstat I believe it is the CCC.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:56 AM   #83
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At least in my installation, the power junction box is located within the air distribution plenum. The junction box extends up past the outer skin a little bit but the ac unit has an open volume in this area and the ac unit covers the junction box completely when it's mounted to the exterior roof. I did study the ac unit plenum to make sure that I mounted the junction box where nothing would interfere with it when the ac unit was bolted down to the roof.

Having had the drip pan on my previous unit and the cups kit on this unit I think the cups work better than the pan at getting rid of the water. I guess a couple of quick shots with some spray paint would cover the contrasting color if the appearance bothered you.

The geometry of the tubing from the cups kit to the internal drain tube would have kinked the drain tube if run directly so I made a 6" one loop coil in the tubing to give it better connection angles and I inserted a couple of lengths of weed whacker cord into it so that the tubing could not kink closed and block the water flow. It's working with no problems.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:26 PM   #84
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Well the AC is installed and running.

I removed the junction box. Maybe should have read this sooner.

I was able to figure out the t-stat wiring. I had to find the newer diagram online. Domestic does not have it on their site but I found one. The one sent with the air handler did not have the new Penguin II diagrams.

I was able to put a piece of PEX down the inside and pulled it out of the wall in the closet and continued it all the way out the bottom of the trailer.

I am not sure I am happy. When the compressor runs, it make quite a bit of rumble. Not really loud, but a distinct rumble. Is this normal? I can live with loud white noise of the fan. I expected that. But the rumble I do not know. Is it just because it is connected to the trailer and the AC vibrates that much?

Also, this AC is advertised as 15000 BTU. Dometic list 11K, 13.5K and HC with HC being the 15K (but they do not say it is in their literature) . All the specs for it though are the same as the 13.5. What makes this a 15K BTU? What is different?
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