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Old 04-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #57
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1981 31' Excella II
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I am pondering how to get my old unit off and the new one on. I may just take the guts out of the old one and remove it piecemeal. I called Dometic today and they said it was ok to turn the unit upside down and slide it on a blanket or carpet of something then flip it over the hole. This way you don't mess up the gasket. You do have to let the oil settle for several hours after doing this. It I had enough strong arms we could just manhandle it up there. I may try a front end loader to lift it up there. I expect two guys could lift it off the front end loader and place it over the hole. I can just about lift the thing myself but it is not real easy to grap hold of. It is sorta like trying to grab a big bar of soap. I may take the cover off and see if there is something to grab. I was pleasantly surprised that they still use copper tubing in the new units instead of aluminum like you see on many new AC units and window units.

Perry
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:42 PM   #58
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Definitely install the new AC with the cover removed, then install it when you're finished. It's just a cover, not a structural element. Handling it by the cover is risking the potential for all sorts of damage. Ranging from a broken cover, to damaging the unit by dropping it when the cover brakes, to damaging the Airstream in the drop, to personal injury.

Even with the cover off, be careful not to damage anything by lifting using something not meant to hold the weight. Handling it by the bottom pan should be safe.

Watch what you do and be careful. You'll be fine.

On Edit:

By the pan, I mean the metal frame that everything is mounted to, not a drip pan or tray. The Carrier I put on my Excella had the metal frame made into a pan to catch the drips and then sling them against the condenser to evaporate rather than use a drain hose. Your construction may be different.

It certainly will be different as far as slinging the condensation against the condenser to eliminate the need for a drain hose. Might work OK in the desert, but not so well anywhere it gets humid. But that's another story.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:59 AM   #59
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I think slinging the water against the condenser is to increase efficiency since it tends to cool things off. It may have the added benefit of reducing the amount of condensate run off but I don't think that is the primary design criteria for doing it.

If you remove the cover there are a lot of things in there you don't need to be grabing as well as sharp metal. The air plenum is made of styrofoam and you know how fragile that is. I am debating if taking the cover off is a good idea.

I am thinking of using a piece of OSB to stiffin the shroud and then putting cardboard on each side of that. I would then slide the unit on the roof upside down then remove the cardboard and flip it over. Sliding it up there right side up is a problem because you will ruin the gasket.

The wife and I removed the old Coleman unit minus the fan motor without too much trouble last night by backing my Ranger truck up to the trailer and we just slid it off. The Dometic unit is a lot heavier (15k BTU) so it will be more of a challenge to remove.

It took a couple of hours to remove 1/4" thick, 2" wide strip of Vulkem that was up there. The stuff was hard as a rock. The only way I have found to remove that stuff is with paint stripper and a wood chisle. It still took 2 hrs to do.

Perry
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:22 AM   #60
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I think slinging the water against the condenser is to increase efficiency since it tends to cool things off. It may have the added benefit of reducing the amount of condensate run off but I don't think that is the primary design criteria for doing it.
No, Carrier's claim was that slinging the water eliminated the need for the drain. That was the stated purpose of the "slinger wheel" system, hence no provision for a drain. (On the high profile systems like mine. There was a kit to attach the drain hoses to the low profile systems.)

Doesn't matter anyway. They've quit the RV business since then.

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If you remove the cover there are a lot of things in there you don't need to be grabing as well as sharp metal. The air plenum is made of styrofoam and you know how fragile that is. I am debating if taking the cover off is a good idea.
I wasn't implying that you don't need to be careful, you do. The plenum on my Carrier is molded plastic, so it's a little more substantial.

By having the cover off, you can get a good grip in a safe place like on the pan itself. The covers are very fragile, too.

Of course that's my opinion.
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I am thinking of using a piece of OSB to stiffin the shroud and then putting cardboard on each side of that. I would then slide the unit on the roof upside down then remove the cardboard and flip it over. Sliding it up there right side up is a problem because you will ruin the gasket.

The wife and I removed the old Coleman unit minus the fan motor without too much trouble last night by backing my Ranger truck up to the trailer and we just slid it off. The Dometic unit is a lot heavier (15k BTU) so it will be more of a challenge to remove.

It took a couple of hours to remove 1/4" thick, 2" wide strip of Vulkem that was up there. The stuff was hard as a rock. The only way I have found to remove that stuff is with paint stripper and a wood chisle. It still took 2 hrs to do.

Perry
Yes, that old Vulkem was the worst part of the entire job! Took me at least 2 hours. If you've got that off, you're good to go now!
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:32 AM   #61
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Ok the new Dometic Penquin unit is up there and working. We put it back in the box with lots of duct tape to hold the box together. There were like 3 of us that pushed the box up a ladder onto the roof. We removed the box and that was it for the external part. The air distribution panel is not a prefect fit becaus of the curved roof. I am working on that one right now.

Perry
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:37 AM   #62
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A/C update: Sealant removed from drip kit cups, extra gasket installed on the bottom (over original gasket) rides about an inch higher but I can live with that. Case closed on to the next project.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:57 AM   #63
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How did you make the inside air distribution box fit? The square gasket will compress over time and I don't think it will end up being much higher than it was. I would check the bolts often as the gasket relaxes (stress relaxation).

Perry
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:39 PM   #64
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How did you make the inside air distribution box fit? The square gasket will compress over time and I don't think it will end up being much higher than it was. I would check the bolts often as the gasket relaxes (stress relaxation).

Perry
The Air distribution box fits nicely inside the frame I built. The ceiling is out so it is not set up all the way, but it all fits. I will be sure to check the gasket as it compresses thanks.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #65
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Ya got some picks of the box?

Perry
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:16 PM   #66
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Ya got some picks of the box?

Perry
I will take a couple and post soon.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:15 PM   #67
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I am about to put an AC on the roof. I have the two cup drain kit. Though I pre-ran 120 AC I did not run a drain hose. I think I can get this done but will have to go though the side of the opening where all the electric is in front. I have a few questions.
1. is there space to allow the drain to go out the side of the opening in the front side corner?
2. The cups are not round, how did you figure and cut an opening for them in the roof? I assume they only poke into the roof and not ceiling.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:42 PM   #68
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The cups are above the roof. There is a double gasket to raise the unit up another inch so the cups don't hit. The drain line should go between the inside and outside skins. If you don't have one it might be a pain to install one. I supposed you could run one over the inside skin to a nearby partition.

Perry
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Old 07-09-2012, 07:33 PM   #69
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The cups are above the roof. There is a double gasket to raise the unit up another inch so the cups don't hit. The drain line should go between the inside and outside skins. If you don't have one it might be a pain to install one. I supposed you could run one over the inside skin to a nearby partition.

Perry
Marzaboy- "I had to drill a couple small holes but yes it fit." This was the basis of my question about holes.

I think I can get a tube down the wall with great effort. My question is that I have to go down from the side of the opening. I cannot go in front of the opening then down. I do not know what all sticks through the opening and if it will block access to a side tube.

The 14" opening is already braced with aluminum channel. Do people remove this in favor of wood?

I have attached a couple pictures where I think I can get a tube down. If not can I run it through the inside air handler. It will only have to span about 6" of ceiling that I can hide in a piece of wood.

Click image for larger version

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Click image for larger version

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Old 07-11-2012, 11:00 AM   #70
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Marzaboy- "I had to drill a couple small holes but yes it fit." This was the basis of my question about holes.

I think I can get a tube down the wall with great effort. My question is that I have to go down from the side of the opening. I cannot go in front of the opening then down. I do not know what all sticks through the opening and if it will block access to a side tube.

The 14" opening is already braced with aluminum channel. Do people remove this in favor of wood?

I have attached a couple pictures where I think I can get a tube down. If not can I run it through the inside air handler. It will only have to span about 6" of ceiling that I can hide in a piece of wood.

Attachment 162800
Attachment 162801
The a/c unit that I went with called for 3/4" plywood box frame. My a/c needs the plywood frame to clamp down to. In my situation the existing hole was much too large and required a patch to cover old holes and make a smaller duct opening for the a/c. As far as the drip tube I would run yours on the inside of the trailer. Trying to fish a tube inside the walls does not sound fun.
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