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Old 02-22-2012, 10:52 AM   #29
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Hello all thanks to all for chimeing in. I have decided to go Dometic Penguin. Not sure if I'm going with the Heat pump or not yet. It either uses a single zone tstat or the CCC (comfort control center). Dometic is really vague about their products. Either way I like the low profile of the Penguin and they both have the same dimensions regarding the roof opening. My plan is to:
1) Remove A/C (done)
2) Clean and prep (done
3)Patch the roof and make the existing opening smaller (done)
4) Fix broken rivets in the roof stringers (done)
5) bend some additional support stringers out of some scrap 5052 .032
6) make a brace for the opening out of some scrap MGP
7) Hopefully get the unit in a couple weeks and lure my friend Paul back with some Beer and Dans Subs.
I am not going to buck the rivets in the patch til I get the unit for some last minute adjustments.
Will post more, stay tuned!
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:26 AM   #30
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Ok people I went with the Dometic Penguin II with no heat pump. Pretty straight forward install. Built a 14 1/4"X14 1/4" wood frame out of some Scrap MGP that I sealed with some left over West Systems Epoxy. I made a patch out of some left over 5052 from the belly pan. Drilled, sealed and riveted to the roof, then installed the new a/c. Pretty easy which scares me a little....
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:43 PM   #31
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What about the inside? Do you have pictures of the drain pan?
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:36 PM   #32
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What about the inside? Do you have pictures of the drain pan?
I havent taken any pics of the inside yet. There is no drain pan. I will be hooking up a drain wnder the skin thru the floor. Iwill post more pics when I do the drain.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:40 PM   #33
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How much does the AC weigh and did you just muscle it up there while standing on your scaffold?

I am confused about the drain pan. There are a couple mentions of differnet pans/cups. What is needed and not needed? Do the pans aleviate the need for a drain hose? I do not have a drian in my trailer wall and would have to do major interior removals to add one.

Thanks for letting me drill you for answers, but I am right behind you on installing an AC and am glad for the advise.

Gene
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:05 PM   #34
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The low profile that he purchased has to use the Airstream supplied drain pan. The Briskair I believe will use a kit supplied by Dometic for Airstreams.

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Old 03-17-2012, 09:11 AM   #35
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I might be mistaken but I was advised to fore go the pan and do a drain tube down the interior wall of my trailer. I hope that was correct because I don't want to get up there and do that again!
The weight of the unit is a fraction of the old monstrosity ( net weight 110lbs). It was pretty easy for my friend and I to get it up on the scaffold an set it into place.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #36
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Don't forget to drill a hole or two in the wood framing for the electrical access and the drain line. It is also much easier to feed the drain line without the AC in position.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:37 AM   #37
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The drain tube should be there already. The pan catches the water and funnels it into the tube. I think the pan is your only option for catching condensate on the low profile Dometics. I thought we covered this already?

Perry


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I might be mistaken but I was advised to fore go the pan and do a drain tube down the interior wall of my trailer. I hope that was correct because I don't want to get up there and do that again!
The weight of the unit is a fraction of the old monstrosity ( net weight 110lbs). It was pretty easy for my friend and I to get it up on the scaffold an set it into place.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:13 PM   #38
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Due to my inexperience in all things trailer and a little misunderstanding with a vendor, I had to remove the A/C unit to add a drip kit. Promptly followed with several shots of Tequila. Please file under rookie mistake.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:09 AM   #39
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That is the same kit that comes with my Briskair. So the same kit that works on the full size units also works on the low profile units.

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Old 03-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #40
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That is the same kit that comes with my Briskair. So the same kit that works on the full size units also works on the low profile units.

Perry
I had to drill a couple small holes but yes it fit.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #41
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Thanks for the pictures. Does anyone know of a link that shows an equally good picture of the AS pan? does the AS pan alleviate the need for the extra drain holes?
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Old 03-28-2012, 03:31 PM   #42
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The drain pan is an item supplied by Airstream (I think) and it's a low profile pan that lays on the trailer roof which catches any condensate coming out of the unit and channels it to a molded in trough which in turn is plumbed to your internal drain hose. The drip kit supplied by Dometic is two plastic cups connected by a hose which screw to the underside of the unit (BTW, in the picture above the instructions explicitly state to not seal the cup flanges so that in the event of a line plug the excess water will overflow the cups onto the roof). In order to make a place for the hose, gaps must be cut in the sealing gasket, then sealant filled around the hose in the gaps and finally another foam gasket adhered to the original gasket. It does make the unit stand up about an inch higher than without it.

I got my 15K heat pump going without a hitch last weekend and it's been operating flawlessly since. I got an opportunity to try it in heat mode a couple of mornings ago and I really like it. The new unit is a lot quieter than my old 13.5 Penguin a/c and it has the added bonus that the fan shuts off when the compressor does.

The Dometic information found online was apparently written by idiots and it can be a struggle to buy the correct parts required. It's probably best to call your chosen vendor and let them tell you what you need to buy so that if you happen to purchase the wrong item you can force them to take it back without a hefty restocking fee (be sure to get names when ordering). A heat strip kit cannot be used with a heat pump even though the instructions make reference to a heat strip setting of the configuration switches (probably the same writers).

Also, FWIW, I found a product (Motsenbocker's Lift Off) at Home Depot that said it would remove silicones, caulk and foam sealants and decided to give it a try. To my surprise it made old Vulkem removal much easier. This stuff breaks down the molecular bonds in the material and then you rub off the crumbles with lots of paper towels. I had my ac opening down to bright shiny metal in 30 minutes or so.
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