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Old 02-13-2012, 01:37 PM   #15
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I would think 3000W would be plenty to run the AC. 2000W might be enough if you don't run much else. 3000W is 25A and that should be plenty for the AC and other stuff. I would run the fridge on gas to ease the load on the generator. You should be fine even with the 15k unit. Most generators will take more in surge than continuous so they can handle inductive loads like a compressor.

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Old 02-13-2012, 01:45 PM   #16
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We are also in the market for an air conditioner, so this is very helpful info for us!

Kay
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:52 PM   #17
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The nearly new air conditioner on my 31' Excella needs a 30 amp circuit. Won't run on 25 amp, it'll shut down. A lot of the units need the 30 amp to start the pump, but the numbers show they'll run on less. I'd hate to get into a unit thinking that 25 amp would suffice and then find you need a larger generator.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:57 PM   #18
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Well my 30 yr old Coleman ran fine on a 20A breaker. The fan motor is toast though. You only have 30A total. 20A goes to the AC usually and the other goes the the wall plugs and the fridge. I think mine has a 30A main and 20A for the AC/microwave and 15A for the wall sockets and everything else.

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Old 02-13-2012, 02:40 PM   #19
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A/c

Hi all,
My question is, does my 73 Tradewind have a pan, and or interior drain tubes? I know my A/C is a replacement unit. I belive it's a mid 80's unit (Coleman TSR Mach 3) and it cools well. But it lets the condensed water run down the sides of the trailer. I would need a new cover, as mine is dry and cracked. At $135 it's a small part of what a new unit would cost. I want to spend the money wisely, and do it correctly (drain pan) if I go new. I really would like to get another few years out of the A/C as other improvements are more important. MPJ
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:17 PM   #20
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Pull the bottom off the unit and see if the tube is hooked to something.

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Old 02-13-2012, 08:36 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
Curious about this: I noticed that in the Dometic sales info that the heat pump shuts off at 40f, and switches over to your furnace. What if you don't have a furnace, and its colder than 40? does it just "not work"? ...
It looks like no one else has taken a stab at this. I think we all understand that heat pumps become less efficient as the outside temperature drops. The control board utilizes a thermal sensor topside to decide when to switch over to furnace mode. At that point the control board provides a DC voltage to the furnace just as if the old style thermostat had called for heat. It would seem possible to install a dedicated 110v outlet operated by an appropriate relay. The control board would think there was a standard furnace attached but it would really be switching on an outlet the electric heater was plugged into. This is probably not supported by Dometic, but it seems to be do-able. A downside is that without the ducted heat, none would be distributed to the plumbing. Any other thoughts on Chuck's question?
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #22
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Goose, I think Lew pretty much covered it: rv heat pump isn't going to be a viable alternative to a furnace, even if it did have a heat-strip. I'm not much concerned with the nifty switch-over feature, itself. (fwiw, there was never any ducted heat to the waste tank on my particular trailer, anyway, as it didn't come from the factory with any tanks below the floor; the black tank sits "on" the floor, so its part of the interior of the trailer. Of course, I'm planning on changing all that. even so, its not something I think is really worth the trouble to concoct, unless you're planning on going out in very low temps, (way below 32F), and staying there for some time. But I digress...).


John: your trailer was originally equipped with a condensate drain tube; I found mine a couple of years ago when I had the ceiling panel down; its was tucked up there out of the way, just forward of the a/c; runs down the street side wall just forward of the street side wheel well. There's nothing to hook it up to on the a/c, though. (also an after-market Coleman).
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:11 AM   #23
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drain

Chuck,
If I get a new A/C with one of those pans, would I be able to use the pan with the drain tube? MPJ
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:35 PM   #24
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That's the idea, anyway.

no direct experience with this, myself, but I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't be able to connect the drain tube.
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:37 AM   #25
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A friend in the A/C business (and RV'er) recommended COLEMAN as being best built, overall, but to especially avoid ADVENT, the Chinese knock-off (I was looking for cheapest 15k A/C).

I, too, prefer the low-profile units.

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Old 02-17-2012, 10:24 AM   #26
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I am on the fence about the Dometic. I am reading too many posts about Dometics not working correctly but most seem to be heat pumps. Maybe I should just pull my old Coleman and do a complete referb on it as opposed to getting a new one and having it die as soon as the warrantee runs out. I wonder if the new units are all aluminum tubing as opposed to the older copper systems. The compressor on my old Coleman works but the rest of the unit is pretty sad.

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Old 02-17-2012, 12:33 PM   #27
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You can also look at the more HD versions: marine, big truck, etc. Changes in materials, improved coatings, etc. Cost is a few hundred more.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:41 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by marzboy View Post
OK I have searched the threads and now I want to know...what would be the best a/c for me? I know nothing about the subject. After reading and asking questions I am still unsure. I am kinda leaning towards the Dometic and I like low profile. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Hi,
You might wish to contact the engineering dept. at the manuf.of your choice and inquire about the sound levels of low profile vs standard height. Generrally speaking,when you decrease the plenum,the resulting turbulence increases noise level inside conditioned space.
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