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Old 05-12-2006, 05:41 AM   #15
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1984 34' Limited
Dallas , Texas
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50 Amp service


Thanks for the info. The specs on the Carrier unit show a 14 amp draw. The rear bedroom is currently gutted. I am thinking of going ahead and running romex from the breaker box to the rear vent opening while it is in this state in case I ever decide that rear air is a necessity. I think switching to 50 amp service would be pretty simple at that stage. Would there be any reason not to upgrade to the 50 amp service? If a 50 amp connection is not available, you could still hook up with an adapter and use the power management techniques you discuss.


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Old 05-12-2006, 06:38 AM   #16
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1960 24' Tradewind
Riverside , California
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A/C Install

Get the carrier Lo-Profile, it has a provision for an interior drain, a must if you don't want condensate water running down the side of your coach. To install inside a curved roof you need to fabricate a "truss" style reinforcing piece front and rear in the opening. It should be 1 1/2" at the sides and around 1 3/4"-2" thick at the center, this makes the inside fairly flat and allows the sweep function to work properly (inside louvers move up and down). Pricing is competetive, $925 for 13.5 and $975 for 15K, both with the heat strip.

I've put an amp meter on both, they run at just under 13 amps cooling and 10 on heat. This unit is only 7 1/2" tall and looks really good on an Airstream especially if you paint the exterior shroud silver metallic.


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Old 09-22-2006, 12:35 AM   #17
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1986 34' Excella
Austin , Texas
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Curved ceiling to squared interior shroud

Hello again -

Was reading your posts re mounting gap for squared interior AC shroud against the curved ceiling. Is this different for the Carriere model than it would be for the DuoTherm or the Coleman? How did you eventually solve it?

Also, would you recommend the Carriere after having it a while? Do you know if there is a difference in the noise level?

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Old 09-22-2006, 02:14 AM   #18
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1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
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I have Coleman, which I'm not sure works yet. Is there a drip pan built in to it or is it on the roof. I see a hose coming out of the bottom street side in front of the tires, I assume that's the drain.

I see a lot of units different brands on Ebay for 400-550, why is someone here saying like $900??
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:40 AM   #19
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1976 31' Sovereign
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Chandler , Oklahoma
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I replaced my Coleman with the 13,500 Carrier with the heat strip. This size unit will freeze you out in the 24ft Argosy, even in the 110 hot Oklahoma Summer. Not sure the heat strip will be useful, but decided to get it anyway. Camping World refused to even try to put a Coleman back on the Argosy and actually refused to put anything up there. Had a small RV repair place order the Carrier and install it after talking with Inland RV about the right AC for replacement. My only objection is how much noise these roof mounts make, but I think they all do that. I love the Spring and Fall when you can just open the windows and turn on the little fan. The Carrier has given us good service for the 18 months we've used it and, like I said, it gets HOT here in Oklahoma. The trailer sits down at the lake and gets really hot, but this unit will cool it down within 15 to 20 minutes after we get in and turn it on.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:57 AM   #20
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1966 22' Safari
Armada , Michigan
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Originally Posted by Waynon
Hello again -

Was reading your posts re mounting gap for squared interior AC shroud against the curved ceiling. Is this different for the Carriere model than it would be for the DuoTherm or the Coleman? How did you eventually solve it?

Also, would you recommend the Carriere after having it a while? Do you know if there is a difference in the noise level?

We have now gone thru two seasons with the Carrier and it is great. I even figured out how to make the heat strip work(turns out if you let it run for several hours while you're asleep, you wake up sweaty; it just doesn't pump out heat like a space heater, it takes time to warm things up.).

As for noise levels, all AC units seem to have the same noise level. As for the curved roof, this isn't a problem. The Carrier unit has like a 2 inch gasket the compresses and conforms to the curve just fine. And really, for a 12" hole, the curve is pretty minimal. The inside house doesn't fit exactly flush, but that hasn't seemed to keep the unit from chilling down the camper.

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Old 06-26-2007, 08:43 PM   #21
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1967 22' Safari
2005 30' Classic
Rockport , Texas
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Late entry... we have a 13.5K Duo-Therm on our 30' Classic here in Texas. On the hot, hot (& humid) summer days, it *just* keeps up w/o an extra fan whirring away and even then, it stays on all the time... or seems like it. Will get a 15K upgrade fairly soon; brand TBD (Carriers' sounding pretty good). A heat strip worked peachy-keen during 40 degree days. At night (20-30 degrees), we used that and a couple ceramic heaters to take the edge off. Tried the furnace but that was way too much. Besides, we liked the electricity the campsite provided vs. our propane...
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Old 06-27-2007, 08:36 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
I will concede that I have wondered if I didn't hook it up wrong when I installed it.
My take on the heat strip is don't think of it as a heater. Ours will just take the chill out of the air inside the trailer (it'll maintain 60-65 deg inside when outside temp is 35-40 deg outside) and it does take some time to warm the trailer up. I think ours is 1500watts, which is prolly the equivalent to the wife's hair dryer. It really doesn't feel "warm" while it's running (like forced air in a home) but it has enabled us to camp into late October and still be somewhat warm in there. I opted for the heat strip because I haven't replaced the furnace yet. Also, I bought a small electric heater to use along with the heat strip for the colder days that will take the temp in the AS to about 70-75 deg. in 35-40 deg outside temps. As a side note, hopefully by this fall I'll have the furnace replaced with the one I bought last year!--dave
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:42 AM   #23
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2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
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I think the heat strip concept is somewhat marginal. My biggest issue, other than it being slow to provide heat is the fact that in my experience with the Penguin unit in my Safari, the heat strip wasn't thermostatically controlled. Which means you turn it on, and when it gets warm you turn it off. Then you get cool again and up you go again to turn it on. I found this to be a real pain which makes the heat pump such a nice feature since the thermostat cycles it on and off.

The only concern is the longevity of a heat pump-A/C compressor. Since you are running the compressor more often, it stands to reason that the life cycle of a heat pump/AC unit assuming you are a frequent user of the heat pump side, will make future replacement come sooner. I base this somewhat on home units in our neighborhood. In these cases we saw the compressors on heat pump units fail at about the 11 year cycle, where the A/C only compressors began their fail cycle at about 14 years. Now granted those home units run for a much longer timeframe over the course of the year.

In my case I would say that my heat pump gets about 10% of the run time for the unit, so I may find that this type of usage would have marginal effect on the unit's life cycle.

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'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:12 PM   #24
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Hi Every one . I was reading the forum and noticed that most of you are talking about carrier AirV Heat Pump and the drain tube. We have a 85 Sovereign with a Coleman Mach III with a drain tube. The A/C is still working and I can see the condensation water from the tube on the street side. However, we are thinking to replace it with a AirV heatpump. My question is, do I have to make any modifications to the AirV Heatpump for the drain tube to work? I could not find any pictures in this forum to help me. Any kind of illustrative help is appreciated.

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