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Old 04-28-2009, 10:13 PM   #15
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I just purchased a non-air conditioned Gt,would it have the 110 volt wire and drain in the roof,I`ve read newer models do,even though they didn`t have Ac from the factory.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks,Dave
On the wiring, on my '63 Globetrotter, the factory rear roof fan runs on 110v or 12v. It has a city power/battery switch. The 110v goes through a transformer. My question is, if you install a new fan that runs on 12v only(or just run the old fan on 12v?), can you use the 1110v wire for the A/C if you extend the wire?
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:20 PM   #16
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Your 63 is not prewired ,you will have to install a new circuit for the a/c. I did the wiring for mine when I put in a new box and breakers . It is not to bad of a job but you will have to partially remove some interior pannels to get the wire where it needs to go. The other thing is you will have to cut a hole in the roof, that I left to the pros at Ace Fogdall in Cedar Falls, Iowa based on the recommendation of Overlander64. It is really important to cut in the right spot and not all A/S dealers are familiar with the older trailers and where the A/C should go ( which is not in an existing vent).
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:29 PM   #17
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If your GT is wired like our safari, 110 comes from the bathroom to that box, then from that box on to the kitchen, so I would venture to guess that circuit is probably already maxed out, even without the AC unit. Probably need to really calculate it out, figure out how many outlets/lights will be on that one breaker, then add the draw of the A/C and figure out what gauge wire that would call for and what size breaker. I'd venture to guess you'll find it exceeds what you have. The good news is, it is possible to get a wire without too much trouble down to your breaker box. It isn't super perfect, but it will work.

I assume again that your vent is just abou the same as our 63, in which case you can remove the rivets that hold the trim around it and have some reasonable access to between the skins. If you access the area just rear of the back bow/rib (depending on your preferred terminology) behind your tub, you can drill a small hole, and feed an electrician's tape up to by that vent, then you can drill holes in the ribs/bow etc to move forward from there. The reason that will work is that rear of that last rib/bow (the start of the end cap) there are no horizontal supports, just fiberglass insulation to work through if the mice haven't beat you to it. you might have to remove your bathroom door/curtain stuff to be able to flex the end cap down enough to fish out that end of the tape. Don't forget to either use the snap in plastic wire protectors or rubber grommets when you pass through the metal.

This of course doesn't address Andy's point that your roof isn't or may not be reinforced correctly to hold that up, but those braces he mentioned should be able to be added once you cut the 14x14 hole in the right place. Watch out for wires when you do that btw, dropping the ceiling in our safari showed that every inch of wire counted, they zigzagged any which way to save wire,not like the newer units that all run in specific locations.

hope that helps.
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:59 AM   #18
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My question is, if you install a new fan that runs on 12v only(or just run the old fan on 12v?), can you use the 110v wire for the A/C if you extend the wire?
Sure don't see why not... as long as 110V wire is at least 14ga. With the fan removed and the new hole cut for the A/C it would be easy to extend the wire... the bigger problem is routing the drain tube from that location. You may be able to back track a little and drop down in the closet.
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:18 AM   #19
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I brought the new wire up between the door frame and window on the street side. Had to drill a hole in the rib (and grommet it) then straight up to the ceiling. I would be very uncomfortable using 14G wire for an A/C circuit. When you start up the air you are very close to the capacity of the wire plus your wire is in a confined hot space and heat drops the load capacity of wire. I think 12g is recommended , I went with 10g as I like a big margin . I guess that comes from having a friend who was a lineman and with him , bigger was always better when it came to wire.
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Old 04-29-2009, 03:41 PM   #20
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Wire size

If in doubt, "EVER" about a wire size, use the next size up, or even 2 sizes up.

When wires will be buried within the walls, over doing it with the size, is an absolute plus.

Andy
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Old 04-29-2009, 04:06 PM   #21
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If in doubt, "EVER" about a wire size, use the next size up, or even 2 sizes up.

When wires will be buried within the walls, over doing it with the size, is an absolute plus.

Andy
In this case, the question was not "what to use", it was will what's already there work.
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