Need Capacitor Specs: Armstrong

[blanier]

Good Morning,

I'm looking for the electrical specs or a current part number for the compressor start and run capacitors in a 75 vintage Armstrong A/C. It's installed in a 31' Sovereign International. The A/C model is TR25-12. The trailer is 70 miles away and I'd prefer making one trip down instead of having to go down, disassemble, reassemble, go find parts . . . . The spec will be something like 110-125V ???? MFD. Even better would be the manufacturer and model number of a replacement that you've installed recently (and that works.) Thanks in advance for the help -- didn't see this info in another thread but sorry if I've duplicated one.

Have a great day, thanks for the help,
Blake

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by blanier

Good Morning,

I'm looking for the electrical specs or a current part number for the compressor start and run capacitors in a 75 vintage Armstrong A/C. It's installed in a 31' Sovereign International. The A/C model is TR25-12. The trailer is 70 miles away and I'd prefer making one trip down instead of having to go down, disassemble, reassemble, go find parts . . . . The spec will be something like 110-125V ???? MFD. Even better would be the manufacturer and model number of a replacement that you've installed recently (and that works.) Thanks in advance for the help -- didn't see this info in another thread but sorry if I've duplicated one.

Have a great day, thanks for the help,
Blake

In my 41 years with Airstream, I have yet to see an oil filled capacitor in "any" univolt fail.

I have seen, many "diodes" that have indeed failed.

Diodes are easily checked with an "Ohmmeter."

Andy

[jimmickle]

Andy,

I believe that he is looking for the start capacitor on the A/C motor. Nothing to do with the univolt.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by jimmickle

Andy,

I believe that he is looking for the start capacitor on the A/C motor. Nothing to do with the univolt.

Oops.

Got to start reading slower.

We have a parts list for the Armstraong AC's.

But to answer the question properly, we need to make sure of the model number.

From that I will post the capacitor specs.

Andy

[blanier]

The model number is TR25-12. The original parts list (the 3 POs were fanatics about passing on every piece of documentation) indicates Armstrong part numbers for the start capacitor as 269A14, and for the run capacitor as 26349B5. I'm looking for current manufacturers and part numbers/specifications for each.

Thanks,
Blake

[lewster]

Originally Posted by blanier

The model number is TR25-12. The original parts list (the 3 POs were fanatics about passing on every piece of documentation) indicates Armstrong part numbers for the start capacitor as 269A14, and for the run capacitor as 26349B5. I'm looking for current manufacturers and part numbers/specifications for each.

Thanks,
Blake

Blake,

First, Welcome to the Forums.

I must ask the question, do you need the new caps because the old ones are fried or inoperative, or are you changing them as a preventative measure.

Did you check the micro-farad readings with a proper meter that reads capacitance to see if they are still within spec, or does your Armstrong not operate, and you have traced the problem to the caps?

My reason for asking is that it is VERY UNUSUAL to find BOTH caaps shot on an A/C unit.

[blanier]

I have not checked the caps but the compressor will not start -- tries to but just groans until the reset or breaker trips. Since it tries to cycle on, and the trailer is parked a fair distance away, and in a fairly remote part of the state (parts would be 40 miles away), carrying replacement caps with me seems to be prudent. They're fairly inexpensive and a likely culprit. It would seem like the problem would have to be one or both of the caps, the relay, or the compressor. I'll just be taking a blind shot at the cheapest and hoping for the best. If the trailer were home, I'd just pull the shroud, read the labels, test the pieces and go to the store. As it is, it's set up in camp for extended use with several folks stopping by to use it from time to time. I wasn't around when it stopped cooling and have had to troubleshoot over the phone. If the caps are stock items at the HVAC supply, I can take both with me, use the one I need and return the other.

Thanks for the help,
Blake

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by blanier

I have not checked the caps but the compressor will not start -- tries to but just groans until the reset or breaker trips. Since it tries to cycle on, and the trailer is parked a fair distance away, and in a fairly remote part of the state (parts would be 40 miles away), carrying replacement caps with me seems to be prudent. They're fairly inexpensive and a likely culprit. It would seem like the problem would have to be one or both of the caps, the relay, or the compressor. I'll just be taking a blind shot at the cheapest and hoping for the best. If the trailer were home, I'd just pull the shroud, read the labels, test the pieces and go to the store. As it is, it's set up in camp for extended use with several folks stopping by to use it from time to time. I wasn't around when it stopped cooling and have had to troubleshoot over the phone. If the caps are stock items at the HVAC supply, I can take both with me, use the one I need and return the other.

Thanks for the help,
Blake

An inadequate extension cord could also have caued the AC to go south.

It is possible that the compressor is shot.

Andy

[blanier]

Compressor failure is is a possibility, as is the start relay. I've found it easier to troubleshoot those with known good caps in place. It's not the extension cord since the trailer pigtail is plugged directly into a 30amp branch circuit. The voltage at the outlet varies between 119 and 123 volts depending on the load. I've never measured less than 112 in the trailer with everything on. I can't rule out a brownout or other anomaly causing the problem since I wasn't there when the unit stopped cooling. I'd still like to carry fresh caps with me if I can locate part numbers. With the fresh caps, I can jumper the relay and have the thing diagnosed (maybe fixed) in a shorter time than it takes to remove the shroud. Andy, If you or someone else can't provide part numbers for the caps, I'll just have to make an extra trip to check the caps and get part numbers from the unit. I may have to anyway since the capacitors may not be the problem.

Thanks for the help,
Blake

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by blanier

Compressor failure is is a possibility, as is the start relay. I've found it easier to troubleshoot those with known good caps in place. It's not the extension cord since the trailer pigtail is plugged directly into a 30amp branch circuit. The voltage at the outlet varies between 119 and 123 volts depending on the load. I've never measured less than 112 in the trailer with everything on. I can't rule out a brownout or other anomaly causing the problem since I wasn't there when the unit stopped cooling. I'd still like to carry fresh caps with me if I can locate part numbers. With the fresh caps, I can jumper the relay and have the thing diagnosed (maybe fixed) in a shorter time than it takes to remove the shroud. Andy, If you or someone else can't provide part numbers for the caps, I'll just have to make an extra trip to check the caps and get part numbers from the unit. I may have to anyway since the capacitors may not be the problem.

Thanks for the help,
Blake

W W Grainger has the caps.

Andy