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Old 02-16-2010, 08:46 AM   #1
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More on replacing NT22A with NT30SP

I read most of what's been posted on this and thought I'd add a few more points based upon my installation of the NT30SP. First removing the NT22a was finding two screws under the front of the casing. Then the long screw that holds the exhaust panel on outside is the main one. The back side of the plate had rusted screws and had to be drilled out and preyed loose. Finally the furnace slides out of the rails after disconnecting the 4 wires- 2 blue that go to the thermostat and a red and yellow, the 12V supply to the furnace. The NT30 has the power plug on the right side inside it's casing. I had to pull the existing wires over the top of the furnace and down the side to connect to the new ones supplied with the NT30SP. I used wire nuts to connect the two together. You have to make this connection first before sliding the heater into the old NT22A casing. Next is to raise the new furnace up by two inches to make the exhaust plate connection. THe NT30SP is smaller than the 22A so the original rails for the 22A can't be used. I bought an 8' 2x2" that I cut to run lengthwise from the back to front. It is INSIDE the two rails. Then cut cross sections about 6" long and put in the back and the front. In a perfect plan this could be screwed together and then inserted. Then bought silver tape at Home Depot and ran it over all wood taping it down to the casing. Now the heater can slide in and line up to the outside holes. The heater goes to the far right edge of the casing to connect to the outside exhaust panel. Before sliding it in place you have to punch out the bottom vent plate so air plows out the bottom to your duct system. Wire cutters and pliers do this task. There are 4 large (4"?) duct holes on the sides that will need to e plugged. Actually the consensus seems to be that you need to add one more duct to this furnace for proper venting. The furnace came with one cover. I bought 3 more (used 2) from Home Depot.
It is actually an outlet cover made by GE in the electrical department. I then taped them in place with the silver tape. It would be better to order the additional covers from Suburban when you order your furnace. But you don't know what you get til you open the box. I bought flexible ducting and a clamp to add the new vent. Covered up the two vents on the right and the bottom one on the left leaving the top left to a new heater vent to come out under the stove. The gas line hooked up the same as before but is a little further to the front. Bought pipe dope to make sure a safe connection.
The new furnace cover goes onto the front. The old one from the 22A goes on over that and seals the front so airflow is forced down. I used tin snips to cut out around where the gas valve is on the right side and the new vent on the top left. After that the cover fits on well and makes the bottom vent seal. I put a small piece of metal flashing on the right side behind the casing and door just to seal off that side better. The thermostat is pretty much a remove old one and screw two blue wires on new and mount to wall. Hope the additional detail helps some of you. I spent about $50 at Home depot on the vent covers, sealant for the outer exhaust panel (mine arrived bent up), wire nuts for electrical, metal tape, 2" x 2", and ducting. Sorry no photos was on a mission to get er done.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:20 AM   #2
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Pics of Furnace Ducting

I'm adding some pics of the ducts around the new NT30SP. I pulled the cover off this weekend as I hadn't really added a side duct as recommended to add to the 2 vents in the bedroom and in the front gaucho area under the sink.
First I mounted the new 30SP on 2"x2" frame so I used Heat/AC metal tape to help seal it so air doesn't blow under the unit. Next we cut some more of the original NT22A's metal cover back as the gas valve for the 30 is closer to the front than the old 22A. This allows the old cover to make a better seal so air is forced down to the old plenum.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:35 AM   #3
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pics of Furnace Ducting

on the left side I left open the top hole to add an additional duct. This barely passes behind the front section area the tambour rolls up into. Had to cut through the 1/8" wood panel under the stove so the metal duct can be pulled through and then pointed out the front. Hate to loose some storage space but this seemed to be the best option to vent it so now there is a mid cabin vent.
I think I will try to reduce the airflow as there is a lot of hot air coming out of this one. Still good flow in the front gaucho area but less in the back by the bathroom. Those of you that have added the third duct to your furnaces or haven't please chime in here on your modifications. Seems that since this is a more powerful furnace it's highly recommended. I've added a pic of the top left duct as it exits the furnace behind where the tambour rolls up. It crosses behind this box and then turns out to face the front. Haven't found a vent cover for it yet but it is behind the tambour panel below the open so if I'm not using the furnace I can just keep the opening closed. Hope this helps some or you.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:47 PM   #4
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Nice info,I think I will print this one.Thanks,Dave
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:18 PM   #5
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Good work Rich.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:20 AM   #6
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Furnace NT 30 Replacement

Sure Steve. Hope you find your lens for the FC. I will say the furnace is quiet, much better than running the Carrier 5 heat strip.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:00 PM   #7
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wood for furnace shim/frame?

I'm in the process of replacing the NT22A in my '71 Safari with an NT34SP and have a question on using wood shims or a wood frame to raise the furnace to line up correctly with the intake/exhaust vents in the back and the plenum in the front. Doesn't the furnace get to hot to use wood on the bottom of the furnace? Wouldn't aluminum just conduct the heat faster into the wood?

BTW - if anyone wants the my furnace your welcome to it. I have no idea if it works correctly. Proceed at your own risk. I prefer local pickup but shipping can be arranged.

Thanks for your assist.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:20 PM   #8
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I used wood. Others I know of also used wood. Replaced 4 years ago. No evidence of any scorching, charring, etc.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:39 PM   #9
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OK, thanks for the info.
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:32 AM   #10
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furnace Replacement

I used 2 x2 wood to sit the new furnace on and it was the right height. Cut 2 long sections to run along the old railing and then 2 short cross sections, one at the back and one for the front. Then used metal foil ducting tape to cover the wood and to hold it in place as kind of a seal and possible heat shield.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:45 AM   #11
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Thanks for the assist folks. I appreciate the info. Using a wood frame to raise the furnace is a lot easier (for me) than fabricating a metal frame.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:40 PM   #12
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..I used some leftover ceramic tiles held in place on the sides with screws...

..I haven't added the additional duct yet, though..when I opened one of the sealed side ducts it dropped the pressure of hot air coming out of the existing fore & aft floor ducts pretty substantially (but with some true "ducting", flex vent, etc it might not do that..).. I do have a small concern that without sufficient duct space the fan might have to work too hard and pull too much amperage...time will tell...
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:30 AM   #13
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Furnace Replacement

You're right on that side duct Fotochop, I think it is needed but it does reduce the flow through the plenum to the fore and aft vents. So my next modification is to cut the flow of air down to about half by taping metal tape to the opening itself or maybe a metal plate to cover half of the opening from the inside of the furnace housing. The flex duct comes out under the Oven and warms the middle of the trailer nicely.
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:26 AM   #14
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I have had all the side ducts sealed for 3 years. No problem so far.
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