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Old 12-08-2017, 07:29 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1969 18' Caravel
Greenville , whereEverIroam
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LP drip leg

Hi all,

So the thermocouple in the original "coffee can" furnace in my '69 Caravel finally broke. I didn't think investing in a new thermocouple would be wise on such an old, dangerous-looking open-flame contraption - and was happy to remove the entire old furnace, to be honest. I decided to replace it with Camco's Wave 6 catalytic heater. (I will be sure to open a few cracks in the vent and window whenever it's in use.)

The install guide suggests adding a drip leg to the gas supply plumbing right before it hits the heater. Now, looking, it seems none of my LP appliances (stove, WH, fridge, orig. furnace) have any drip legs.

Anyone have any pictures, advice, etc. on doing this? Now, I'm kinda handy, and think maybe I could easily do it myself after a trip to Home Depot, but since it's deadly gas, after all, thought I check in with you guys first. And should I do it all all the other spots too?
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:29 PM   #2
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1991 25' Excella
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Santa Ynez , California
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Complete waste of time and materials.
drip legs come from a time when fuel gas was not as clean as what we have today.
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:25 PM   #3
cwf
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1999 34' Excella
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Hillsboro , Texas
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I have a full circle drip loop coming off the regulator, in fact a complete circle. I HAVE had residual odorant in the main line. Twice. Of course our 1999 had Lot of LP run thru it and did NOT have a loop... this caused irregular performance of LP appliances... especially when cold. I need not go thru the details unless asked...but I did get a couple ounces out when I opened the system.

Since then, with the “loop” I have only had a light amount of the odorant show up when I replaced regulator..

Granted, the fuel may have improved... I hope it would. Now I need not worry about there being a slug of the junk restricting the LP lines... and if the performance drops,’the loop will have trapped the juice...
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:08 PM   #4
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Considering that some appliance manufacturers don't have a real plumber or pipefitter on staff, it's possible that the install guide should say dirt leg rather than drip leg.

I think even some plumbers have difficulty telling the two apart.

I always put in a dirt leg (really should be called a sediment leg) at appliances. It's not much extra work and I think the installation looks more professional.

If they really recommend a drip leg, it's possible the installation sheet was written years ago when gas did have more condensables to worry about.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:01 AM   #5
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Having just gone through a stick house inspection, inspectors still look for a "drip Leg" on the water heater and furnace.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:17 AM   #6
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1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride , Colorado
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I have to drain the flex hose between the regulator and rigid line at least twice a year.
I get at least an ounce of oil out of the loop. Worth having a drip loop right at the source!
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:05 AM   #7
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1976 31' Sovereign
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Drip legs very common nat. gas at each take off of main, [appliance] that why stick insp. specified for Rich. Reason is dirt and moisture in nat. gas suppliers main lines. But this is first time heard of drip leg for propane in my age of 83 and have used propane over 50 yrs. in farm apps. Propane is higher in pressure and more controlled enviroment than nat. gas.
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:47 AM   #8
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1969 18' Caravel
Greenville , whereEverIroam
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I like the idea of putting in just one drip or sediment leg coming off the tanks. That should protect everything downstream. It seems like the spot right in front where the line goes under the belly pan would be the lowest point in the whole system anyway.

Does anyone have any pictures of their setup like this? Any worries about road debris or scrapes coming out of steep drive ways, etc?
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