Leaky AC on new Flying Cloud

[mpl]

Just pulled my 2010 FC 900+ miles from PA to AL. Mid-80s temps. Turned on the AC and...
It works for 10 minutes then the blower shuts off (but not the compressor). Same issue as last year. Took it to a Dometic service center and they "could not replicate the problem".

[cwf]

Originally Posted by mpl

Just pulled my 2010 FC 900+ miles from PA to AL. Mid-80s temps. Turned on the AC and...
It works for 10 minutes then the blower shuts off (but not the compressor). Same issue as last year. Took it to a Dometic service center and they "could not replicate the problem".

Disconnect all power Ac and Dc. Power up again (reboot). Does that help?

[mpl]

No, it didn't.

[mpl]

Of course the AC is out of warranty so I'm going to cut my losses and replaced it.. Question; what would be a decent replacement model for a 2010 FC (27' FB).

[KJRitchie]

If I was going to replace it then get the 15k unit and have them add the auxillary drain system as shown in this thread. Could be if your drain pan was overspilling it may have damaged the circuitry.

Kelvin

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ml#post1251571

I'm down to two major problems on our newly acquired 2008 Classic 25fb, this AC issue and a problem with the fridge staying cool while traveling. My cream puff has turned into a stale roll.

Kelvin

[lewster]

Originally Posted by mpl

Of course the AC is out of warranty so I'm going to cut my losses and replaced it.. Question; what would be a decent replacement model for a 2010 FC (27' FB).

mpl,

Before you go and replace the unit, you should check out a few conditions with the unit, as it might be voltage related and have nothing to do with your unit.

• does the fan shut down on both auto and high fan speeds (check it on BOTH)

• what is your source of 12VDC control voltage? If you have the original converter, you might be getting what is called 'dirty voltage' with an unacceptable amount of 'AC ripple' riding along with the 12VDC (it should be upgraded anyway as it is GARBAGE!). This would cause problems in the relay board that controls the A/C unit and could be the cause of your problem

• Your fan motor is getting too hot and causing it to go into thermal overload and cutting off as a safety feature.......in which case you need a blower motor and NOT a new unit.

In any event, you could replace it with a Penguin II heat pump model # 681816.XX1C0 for a 15K heat pump with relay board. You will also have to re[place the thermostat for a Comfort Control II t/stat. PM me if you need additional info on this swap-out.

You can also go to the RVP/Coleman Mach 8 in a 15K with heat pump and condensate pump, model # 47024-876. This will also need a new thermostat unless your current unit has manual controls located directly underneath it on the air box.

[KJRitchie]

I'm out at a Thousand Trails resort on Lake Tawakoni near Dallas on shakedown trip 2.
The weather is 90F with high humidity. I've had the AC running last night on Auto. This mode the fan shuts off with the compressor. I can confirm that when the fan is running the water stream out the discharge tube is less when it shuts down. However we did leave the trailer for about four hours with the fan on low. The fan stays on even if the compressor goes off. Still no water coming into the interior. I have pulled tha AC filters several times today and the is no water pooling in the interior hosing nor is there any condensation appearing in the evaporator housing upstream of the evaporator.

I think if I get through this humid, hot weekend without interior water intrusion I'm home free.

What I did was apply extra caulking around the drain tube fitting and blew air up the pipe and sucked out anything with my shop vac. .

Kelvin

[m.hony]

I disagree with the assessment that the condensation pan is being overloaded. If this was the case all a/c units in all trailers in the steamy 100% southeast would leak. I have not had that issue.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by m.hony

I disagree with the assessment that the condensation pan is being overloaded. If this was the case all a/c units in all trailers in the steamy 100% southeast would leak. I have not had that issue.

I believe it's a case of the fan actually holds the water in the condensing coils and it slowly makes it's way out when they reach saturation. If the fan shuts off the result is all of the water falls out if the coils and overwhelms the drain system.

I have 2 dometics on my 34, the old one runs the fan all of the time and has never leaked. The new one would DUMP water when the fan cycled off. It took some work to free up the drain system to stop the leak when it gushed water at the end of every cycle. My '63 has a Mach 8 with a pump and it gushed once when I went from high-cool to off. Luckily it's overflow ran down the outside shell. Since then, I have gone from hi-cool to low fan for a few seconds before shutting off and have not had a leak.

You milage may vary.

[loechli]

Originally Posted by lewster

Ding...Ding...Ding...Ding

Give that man a prize!!!!

That is the exact part. It is not rocket science to install it. Just be careful not to kink The thin wall, non re-inforced substandard drain tube that you will find in your Airstream's ceiling. Maybe get a 1/2" X 1/2" barb by barb 90º elbow to make the transition and you should be fine!

I had Jackson Center replace my dead Armstrong on my 1972 in sept 2011. 15000 Penguin with Drain kit cups Lew recommends. I have only used the air a few times since the install and never super hot humid days. Yesterday 91 degrees and very high humidity in ohio I came back to the trailer to take a break from the heat, found the trailer not very cool, there was water dripping from AC vents onto bed. I shut the unit off to start troubleshooting and my daughter who was standing under the AC got a shower! I think the unit was running on low for about 4 hours.

The day before I cleaned some junk from condensate tube. While the condensate tube was dripping I also had a bit of condensate dripping off roof.

I left AC off for a few min, the cycled power again to have another smaller rain of water.

Then I turned back on made sure fan was on high and vents were all open and it seemed to cool ok rest of day.

Does dometic really say fan has to be on high, and all vents open, if I leave all vents open back of my trailer is too cold and front is hot.

Steve

[lewster]

Originally Posted by loechli

I had Jackson Center replace my dead Armstrong on my 1972 in sept 2011. 15000 Penguin with Drain kit cups Lew recommends. I have only used the air a few times since the install and never super hot humid days. Yesterday 91 degrees and very high humidity in ohio I came back to the trailer to take a break from the heat, found the trailer not very cool, there was water dripping from AC vents onto bed. I shut the unit off to start troubleshooting and my daughter who was standing under the AC got a shower! I think the unit was running on low for about 4 hours.

The day before I cleaned some junk from condensate tube. While the condensate tube was dripping I also had a bit of condensate dripping off roof.

I left AC off for a few min, the cycled power again to have another smaller rain of water.

Then I turned back on made sure fan was on high and vents were all open and it seemed to cool ok rest of day.

Does dometic really say fan has to be on high, and all vents open, if I leave all vents open back of my trailer is too cold and front is hot.

Steve

I think your problem was 'running on low for 4 hours'. In very high humidity situations, the indoor fan (evaporator fan) can not transfer sufficient heat from the intake air to keep your evaporator from freezing when using low fan speeds.

You should always have the unit on high fan speed in humid conditions to prevent ice-up, and the accompanying interior leakage that results from a frozen evaporator.

To remedy the situation once it happens, set your thermostat to 'high fan' only. This will keep the compressor off while blowing intake air across the frozen evaporator, helping it to defrost quicker.

[loechli]

Thanks Lew,

The only reason I thought it might not be freeze up is that after turning off for less than a minute and getting the rain shower, I turned it right back on.

It then cooled fine, didn't act like what I have seen on my home or business ac when they have iced up, on those I would not see the water start dripping until after turning the system to fan only and then it was a drip, this was a sudden shower, right after turn in fan and ac off.

I know it was 90 and humid yesterday, but I was surprised the 15,000 BTU penguin was not keeping up, I was in an unshaded campsite.

Also has the location of the AC and the new distribution air box, leaves the back of my 1972 overlander international much colder in back and too warm in front, anyone else experience have experience or solution to better distribute air, Jackson Center told me I should not close off back vents to push more air to front, it could also cause ice. I must say I am glad I had the 15,000 Penguin put in, I cant imagine having any smaller of a unit in my 27' trailer.

Steve