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Old 10-01-2012, 01:52 PM   #57
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Leaky AC on FC

My 2011 continues to leak as recently as last week. I have tried everything suggested, fan on auto, fan on high, and it has leaked in all modes especially during the summer months when it is hot and humid here in Florida. I have contacted Airstream and they tell me they can't do anything unless Dometic authorizes it. Airstream says Dometic recommends all cooling vents be opened and the unit ran on high. A change of A/C units has to be authorized by Dometic. Airstream apparently does not assist the customer on these cases since Dometic carries the warranty. No bumper to bumper during warranty period on Airstreams in other words. I have sent two photos of the latest leak to Dometic and am waiting to hear from them. One of the big issues for those of us not close to dealers is that you spend a couple hundred bucks driving to a dealer and they can never replicate the problem. The trailer always has to be left and picked up later which means two round trips in a tow vehicle only to find out it didn't leak for them. The only thing I could say is if they will come to Daytona in July I can show them all the leak they ever want to see.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:30 PM   #58
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Our one month old preowned 2008 Classic 25fb leaked on us last weekend. We only ran the AC a couple of hours on a weekend camping trip. It wasn't even that hot, lower 80s, in the afternoon. It was cycling on and off and I remember seeing a water patch by the street front tire. We were going to bed and the AC had not been running for a while as the evening cooled off fast and we heard water dripping. There was a puddle under the AC on the floor. I dropped the air distribution cover and peak up the largest hole in the front left side and I could see water lining the ceiling of the evaporator compartment. I can only see the upwind side of the evaporator. I could feel moisture along the top of the metal base that the air distribution box screws into. Is this upstream compartment getting cold and condensing the humidity. I can't see how this moisture is coming from the pan because its completely on the other side of the evaporator where there is no access from below.

Today I dropped the metal base to see if I could find anything wrong, wow the bolts were not very tight. Everything is dried up. I can see the bottom of the drain pan. Its narrow and deep and the tube comes out the the side but there is a lot of gray caulking over it. Looks like I need to get on the roof and remove the AC shroud. Will I be able to access the pan and clean it out and run water down the drain tube from up there?

I tried pushing weed eater line up the drain tube but at about 8 or 9 feet I couldn't push it through more. I have a compressor and will try to blow some low pressure air up to see if I can tell if there is an obstructions.

Here is the inside of the AC showing the drip pan at the bottom of the photo and the gray clumpy thing to the left is the drain hose. The output air box is at the top of the photo. Photo was taken looking towards the front of the trailer.

I live in Texas and if this AC continuously dumps water on the interior floor this is not going to work out well.

If the only recourse is to get a new version of this AC/Heat pump I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. Trouble is the Classic has the vinyl padded ceiling and the square box has made impressions in vinyl that may not be hidden by the newer oval distribution boxes.

Form what I've been reading Airstream has the ACs modified by Dometic for the drain pan. So you can only purchase these through an AS dealer?

Kelvin
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:28 AM   #59
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Now THAT is a caulking mess...

.....or a modern "art" sculpture courtesy of the skilled artisan culkers at JC.

I see an Angel......you?

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Old 05-05-2013, 07:16 AM   #60
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Now THAT is a caulking mess...

.....or a modern "art" sculpture courtesy of the skilled artisan culkers at JC.

I see an Angel......you?

Bob
Bwwwaaaahahaha. Thanks. Bob!
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:05 PM   #61
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Using a compressor sounds like a good idea. If you are still getting water out of the hose by the wheel, there may be a partial blockage.

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Old 05-05-2013, 08:08 PM   #62
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I took my compressor to the AS in storage and applied about 25psi. The air seemed to pass through OK and didn't try to push back. I was able to prop the air nozzle on the tire and used a clamp to keep the air blowing while I walked into the trailer and checked the AC. With the air distribution housing and the mounting plate off I could air entering the drain pain. I then took my shop vac and connected it to the pipe. No evidence of restrictions. That's the good news, the bad new is if it starts to pour water in the trailer then my AC is not designed well to take care of the humidity. Being used an out of warranty I'm on my own. Might as well see if someone can modify the AC to drain outside vs the drain pipe of I'll have to get a new AC that drains to the outside. Might as well upgrade to a 15k BTU units. Hope AS can handle outside water.

Kelvin
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:38 PM   #63
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Typical mess I see on drain pan installs from the factory. I have removed 3 drain pans in the last couple of months and had to cut them off the roof and clean up the mess.

They were replaced with new A/C units. 2 Penguin upgrades and one RVP Mach 8. The RVP had a drain pump system and the Penguins mount with Dometic's auxiliary drain kit.

All very clean and functional installations!
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:17 PM   #64
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Is it the design of the drain pan that is bad or the amount of caulking used inside the drain pan?

Could you cut a round hatch in the bottom of the drain pain, Clean the caulking from the inside tube fiting then glue the plug it back in and them fiberglass the exterior?

I'm actually look forward to some warm humid air to retest.

Kelvin
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:09 AM   #65
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Our 10 FC leaked as well. We have very high humidity here as well. Try running the unit on high fan whenever unit is on. That helped our situation as we previously had to remove the shroud ans dry the connectors and reset the CCC. Try high fan speed only.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:43 AM   #66
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I haven't used my Comfort Control Center (CCC) much so I'm reading from the user guide.

My AS has the heat pump so I only have fan speed low and high available. On mode Fan I've been able to change the fan speed between high and low. There doesn't seem to be an a lot of difference between the speeds. I'm assuming with the AC on the speeds are the same as in Fan mode.

When my AC dripped I removed the plastic air distribution box and with a flash light peered into the evaporator housing. I noticed the ceiling of the evaporator housing was wet. Did incoming air pick up the moisture from water that had pooled in the the plastic housing or is it cold enough in the evaporator house to condense against the housing that is exposed to hight outside temperatures. The outside shroud would keep direct sun off the evaporator housing but it would still be hot. I'm going to take my wireless infrared thermometer and see what it shows next time I'm out.

In Cool mode with Auto fan (heat pump equipped like mine) the fan will be on high if the temperature spread is 8 degrees or more and low when less than 8 degrees. I haven't checked if this is the way it works as I'm still not used to listening to the fan and determining if its in low or high speed mode.

When I remove the mounting plate I can see where the water has stained the dense foam insulation. The water seems to be dripping in center right under near where the tube comes out. I'm tempted to remove all that gray caulking and then reseal it with my own caulk and leave the tube to where I can see water flowing through it. Question is does the gray caulk come off easily,

I would think if its overflowing from the sides I would see residue else where on the foam but maybe the way the pan is angled the water has a tendency to bunch up there drip on to the foam then run into the C channel where it seems to run forward out the end in to the plastic distribution housing where it collects in the corner which then pools until it overflows the support and onto the floor it goes. I may take a little vibration to break the water tension and then you hear a stream hitting the floor. We didn't notice the leak until bed time and the AC was off and the moving to change for bed unleashed the dam.

Kelvin
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:49 AM   #67
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Maybe Airstream installed the drip pan in the wrong location. Instead of putting in the AC unit, mount it on the floor of the trailer

Kelvin
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:42 PM   #68
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Maybe Airstream installed the drip pan in the wrong location. Instead of putting in the AC unit, mount it on the floor of the trailer

Kelvin
Good way to save on water when boondocking and you want a shower.

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Old 05-06-2013, 04:03 PM   #69
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Without seeing it first-hand, and since you have no obstruction in the drain tube, it seems to me that the excessive caulking might be limiting the area where condensation collects before running down the drain tube (it can only drain so fast) ... with not enough area to accommodate the amount of condensation if it's particularly humid ... so it's overflowing into the wrong place... Is it possble to clean up the caulking around the drain connection?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:43 PM   #70
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dump the drain pan !!!!!!!!

Why is it that Airstream is the ONLY RV company using such a device and seems to be the only one that has drainage problems???????

Not to mention that the thin wall, NON-REINFORCED junk drain line that they use does not help the situation at all!!!!!

Also Interesting that as of several 2012 models I have seen, the drain pan HAS BEEN DUMPED!! in favor of the DOMETIC AUXILIARY DRAIN KIT that every other RV manufacturer that installs Penguins with internal drain lines uses.
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