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07-11-2011, 10:36 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Flying Cloud
Fraser Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,966
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Is Your Air Conditioner Adequate in 100+F Heat?
We recently had our first hot day here - 79 - 80F. So, I turned the AC on for the first time.
It took quite a long time for the AC to cool the trailer down. After running it for a few hours, I thought the trailer would be really cold, but it wasn't.
It was really cold right under the AC unit (in the middle of the kitchen) but it wasn't that cold at either end of the trailer (dining and bedroom area). Liveable, yes, but not as cool as the kitchen area.
Bearing in mind it was 108F in Oklahoma a few days ago, I'm wondering how other 'streamers are making out with their AC? My trailer has the wrap-around windows on both ends, which probably doesn't help, but I was really questioning the viability of my unit's AC in extreme heat especially when we need it most, in the bedroom at night!
BTW, I also noticed the smaller vent on one side of my AC was not blasting out as much cold air as the other vents. Is this a defect, or is this the usual way they work. When I adjusted some of the other vents, more air would be directed out the under-performing vent, but it was still not that strong.
Thanks for your input.
__________________
easily distracted by shiny objects
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07-11-2011, 10:41 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Holly Lake Ranch
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,794
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Well without getting into all the deltas and physics etc. depending on the size of your AC unit, it should cool down pretty well on an 80 degree day. our little 11k penguin did okay in 100 degree heat although it did take several hours to get down to a respectable 80 or so..... summer camping in Texas with an AS can be challenging, but I would think BC wouldnt have a lot of 100 degree days. Could you send some of that 80 degrees our way? thanks
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07-11-2011, 10:47 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Trabuco Canyon
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 866
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I have 25' Safari with the small windows, and a headliner and wall material. It has a 11,000 BTU air conditioner. I think the sizes and models are so diverse your AC performance should only be directly compared to another very similar unit.
I just returned from Bishop CA with temps in the 100 degree range. I've used the trailer up to 115 degrees. On this last trip there were times the interior temp rose to 80 degrees. It was still comfortable for me because in my smaller trailer I'm always in a breeze blowing from the AC unit. In fact usually I shoot for a temp in the high 70s. If it gets down to 72, the breeze from the AC is too cold for me.
My biggest gripe about the AC is slow cooldown if the starting interior temp is 100 degrees. It seems to take forever, usually till after dark. BTW I doubt most people have trouble cooling their trailers at night regardless of the temp. I've had mine in areas where it went down to 95 at night and it got meat locker cold in there. Most of the AC struggles are due to sun load on the exterior. Parking in the shade is a big plus in hotter weather and extends the useful range of the air conditioner.
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07-11-2011, 10:49 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Flying Cloud
Fraser Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,966
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Goal, last night I left the bedroom windows open and the cool, moist air was wafting in - glorious! Natural air conditioning. I was thinking about the poor people in TX/OK who are suffering through a heatwave. We do not get many hot days here, but they can come on suddenly, and it is top news. People think they're dying! Canadians, especially those on the westcoast, sure love to moan about the weather. It's funny how unbearably "hot" here = "nice" in places like TX.
No, we do not get many 80+ days here on the coast, but the interior of the province is semi-arid. Summers are a lot hotter there.
Hope you're not suffering too much.
__________________
easily distracted by shiny objects
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07-11-2011, 10:50 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
2017 30' Classic
Washington
, Utah
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 124
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Hi Fly,
There are a couple of similar threads that have been posted recently on this topic and they contain some useful tips.
We had some hot days in the Denver area over the 4th of July weekend. Temps got up into the upper 90's. Here's what worked for us:
1. Use the awning as much as possible.
2. We purchased a roll of Relectix at Home Depot and cut out pieces to fit the skylights.
3. We also cut out pieces for the sunny side windows. I placed them between the window glass and the screen.
4. While not entirely stylish, I took a big piece of the Reflectix and covered the large panorama windows on the outside. I just used a couple of clips and attached to the solar guard.
5. Purchased two small fans to keep air moving inside the coach.
6. Closed off the bedroom until later in the evening when the air started to cool as the sun went down.
7. Kept the bathroom door closed.
8. Start the A/C early in the day before you think you really need it.
The inside temp was very comfortable during the heat of the day using this method. I don't have an inside thermometer but I would guess 70 degrees inside at the peak heat of the day.
Hope this helps.
Ron
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07-11-2011, 10:57 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Flying Cloud
Fraser Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,966
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Ronald, thanks for the tips!
I was thinking of putting one of those car windshield reflectors on the BR panoramic window - at least during the day.
Will stock up and take note of your other pointers. Who knows where the weather could go - it can change dramatically here. I want to be prepared because I get beechy in the heat.
__________________
easily distracted by shiny objects
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07-11-2011, 10:59 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2010 27' FB Flying Cloud
Fraser Valley
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpi
I have 25' Safari with the small windows, and a headliner and wall material. It has a 11,000 BTU air conditioner. I think the sizes and models are so diverse your AC performance should only be directly compared to another very similar unit.
I just returned from Bishop CA with temps in the 100 degree range. I've used the trailer up to 115 degrees. On this last trip there were times the interior temp rose to 80 degrees. It was still comfortable for me because in my smaller trailer I'm always in a breeze blowing from the AC unit. In fact usually I shoot for a temp in the high 70s. If it gets down to 72, the breeze from the AC is too cold for me.
My biggest gripe about the AC is slow cooldown if the starting interior temp is 100 degrees. It seems to take forever, usually till after dark. BTW I doubt most people have trouble cooling their trailers at night regardless of the temp. I've had mine in areas where it went down to 95 at night and it got meat locker cold in there. Most of the AC struggles are due to sun load on the exterior. Parking in the shade is a big plus in hotter weather and extends the useful range of the air conditioner.
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tpi, long cool-down, that seems to be a commonality. I noticed same with mine. Thanks for your reply.
__________________
easily distracted by shiny objects
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07-11-2011, 11:05 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Barely, I think the mouse fur and foam vinyl on the ceiling on the classics helps a little.
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07-11-2011, 11:36 AM
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#9
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one of those
2011 27 FB International
'03 F250 PSD
, Airstream summers, Catalac winters
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,091
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We just visited our Airstream last week, and plugged it in and turned on the ac, first time. It was sitting inside a warehouse, and the temp inside was 94 when we started. Two hours later it had cooled down to 83 when we had to stop the experiment and go catch a flight. While in it, standing in the kitchen under the 15 kbtu unit, I felt the cold breeze blowing straight down. I was thinking about some of the threads I have read on this forum, and picking out where I could put a fan for circulation. ( I think under the dinette where that 12 volt outlet is) Then I started fiddling around with the vents on the ac, and found that when I shut the vent blowing straight down on my sweaty, bald head, the air blew out the end vents a lot harder. Toward the front bedroom and the rear lounge. You know....the east wing over past the pool, game and media rooms.....the end of that longest hallway, down with the sound system.
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07-11-2011, 11:50 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Holly Lake Ranch
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,794
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TPI:
It occurs to me if there was a way to vent the AS during travel that wouldn't cause roof vents or windows to fly off, the issue of heat gain during the day and the longer cooldown period might be somewhat mitigated but I'm not sure how that could be done. Anyone have any experience in trying to do that? Seems like a constant displacement of heated air prior to turning the AC on might help make the AS less of a heat sink while on the road.
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07-11-2011, 11:53 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goal15
TPI:
It occurs to me if there was a way to vent the AS during travel that wouldn't cause roof vents or windows to fly off, the issue of heat gain during the day and the longer cooldown period might be somewhat mitigated but I'm not sure how that could be done. Anyone have any experience in trying to do that? Seems like a constant displacement of heated air prior to turning the AC on might help make the AS less of a heat sink while on the road.
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I always left a vent open in my old SOB, but the airflow over my AS draws A LOT of dust inside the unit.....so no I don't leave them open anymore.
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07-11-2011, 11:56 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Holly Lake Ranch
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,794
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dznf0g:
did it help with temperatures? If it did it occurs to me that cutting a piece of furnace filter material to fit inside the vent would eliminate much of the dust issue and would be particularly worthwhile if it did indeed reduce inside temperature or buildup of heated air.
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07-11-2011, 11:59 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goal15
dznf0g:
did it help with temperatures? If it did it occurs to me that cutting a piece of furnace filter material to fit inside the vent would eliminate much of the dust issue and would be particularly worthwhile if it did indeed reduce inside temperature or buildup of heated air.
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Oh, I suppose it helped some, but I think the real issue with A/C performance is sun load more than ambient temps. (you guys in the SW excluded!)
BTW, I would use a Maxx Air cover (or similar brand) if you're going to leave vents open during travel.
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07-11-2011, 12:12 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
2002 31' Classic
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 442
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In my 2001 ASCL 31' I have to accurately direct the vents to blow the dense cool air high and down the hall into the bedroom. If I want the bedroom to be cool during the heat of the day I also close off one of the living room vents to direct greater air flow to the rear. Also, I use a 12 volt “Fantastic” table/floor fan to increase circulation of the dry air the A/C creates and find the setup quite comfortable.
Additionally, while servicing the A/C filters I discovered two problems with the OEM installation:
· The A/C venting of cool air was somewhat mixing with the warm air being drawn in through the filters due to gaps in the installation (quality of OEM installation). I used some aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps.
· The foam backed vinyl ceiling material (on the Classic Limited) which is pressed down by the A/C cover had much excess that was hanging down inside the cover where the rear air was venting and was obstructing the air flow from those vents (quality of OEM installation). I corrected this by cutting back the excess vinyl.
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07-11-2011, 12:17 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Holly Lake Ranch
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,794
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I would prefer not to travel with vents open for obvious "wind shearing" issues, so I think we are going to stick with our current plan (at least until retirement time when we can head for higher elevations and cooler latitudes) of not camping in the Southwest in July and August and only in September if we get unlikely seasonal cooling. Still gives us a good 6-7 months of camping.
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07-11-2011, 12:35 PM
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#16
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
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This became apparent on last years California trip.
Ours cools down a lot faster if the thermo is set on auto and temp at 60.
45 min later usually re-set to 72.
Seems to take forever if you just turn fan on high and set the temp at 72.
__________________
"You don't know where you've been until you leave, enjoy life" RLC
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07-11-2011, 12:42 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by withidl
In my 2001 ASCL 31' I have to accurately direct the vents to blow the dense cool air high and down the hall into the bedroom. If I want the bedroom to be cool during the heat of the day I also close off one of the living room vents to direct greater air flow to the rear. Also, I use a 12 volt “Fantastic” table/floor fan to increase circulation of the dry air the A/C creates and find the setup quite comfortable.
Additionally, while servicing the A/C filters I discovered two problems with the OEM installation:
· The A/C venting of cool air was somewhat mixing with the warm air being drawn in through the filters due to gaps in the installation (quality of OEM installation). I used some aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps.
· The foam backed vinyl ceiling material (on the Classic Limited) which is pressed down by the A/C cover had much excess that was hanging down inside the cover where the rear air was venting and was obstructing the air flow from those vents (quality of OEM installation). I corrected this by cutting back the excess vinyl.
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This brings up some more potential help. I cannot seem to recall how to bring other threads into this post. (help me with that and I'll point you to the projects) Jammer had a post about "getting more heat to the rear bedroom" That thread covers additional ductwork to the rear. In addition I added to that project a manual, variable furnace blower control. It was done to move more HEAT to the rear, BUT, I have found that it works for distributing A/C more evenly throughout the trailer too. Basically I manually turn on the furnace blower about 1/2 speed (quieter that way). It draws cool floor level air from the Kitchen area and distributes it forward and to the rear. With the extra duct to the BR and one shut off in the LR, I get a lot more cooling in the BR. Seems to help a lot.
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07-11-2011, 12:51 PM
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#18
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1 Rivet Member
2011 25' FB Flying Cloud
Newport
, Rhode Island
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
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A/c -
I find the A/C to be inadequate as well and I have a 20' Bambi. Certainly restricts the travel option in warmer temps.
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07-11-2011, 01:00 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,655
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07-11-2011, 01:01 PM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
2002 31' Classic
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
This brings up some more potential help. I cannot seem to recall how to bring other threads into this post. (help me with that and I'll point you to the projects) Jammer had a post about "getting more heat to the rear bedroom" That thread covers additional ductwork to the rear. In addition I added to that project a manual, variable furnace blower control. It was done to move more HEAT to the rear, BUT, I have found that it works for distributing A/C more evenly throughout the trailer too. Basically I manually turn on the furnace blower about 1/2 speed (quieter that way). It draws cool floor level air from the Kitchen area and distributes it forward and to the rear. With the extra duct to the BR and one shut off in the LR, I get a lot more cooling in the BR. Seems to help a lot.
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To bring thread into post find thread, block and copy the address field (Ctrl + C), then within your post click the "Insert Link" icon in the tools. This will open a small window where you can paste (Ctrl + V) the copied address. I believe you can also just paste the link into your post where you position your cursor without using the "Insert Link" tool.
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