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Old 04-20-2005, 02:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
Chuck,

The tube would only be visible if you take the inner shroud/Air diffuser off and look between the skins.
That's where I was looking...but I thought it was supposed to be on the roadside. perhaps its on the curbside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
I have seen some trailers where the tube was run down the roadside, dunno why. The drain line is 1/2 inch black poly tubing, like the kind used for lawn sprinkler systems. .
That should be hard to miss!
that's why I'm wondering if perhaps whomever installed this a/c might have cut it back for some unknown reason....
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
Chuck,

The tube would only be visible if you take the inner shroud/Air diffuser off and look between the skins. I have seen some trailers where the tube was run down the roadside, dunno why. The drain line is 1/2 inch black poly tubing, like the kind used for lawn sprinkler systems.

As to the Coleman drain pan. Airstream had one that they used for a number of years, in the 80's, when Coleman was the OEM AC unit. My understanding is that it was a pan that sat under the AC, yet inside the shroud. I have never seen one myself. And it was a part that Airstream had made........
My tube runs out the streetside. It ran down streetside of my 1976 as well.
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
That's where I was looking...but I thought it was supposed to be on the roadside. perhaps its on the curbside.



That should be hard to miss!
that's why I'm wondering if perhaps whomever installed this a/c might have cut it back for some unknown reason....
Do you have an existing A/C unit?
If you do, then the tube would have been cut to length already. It would be hooked up to the A/C drip pan already.
My Minuet had no A/C previously installed. I removed the AC outlet plug that was installed in the ceiling and the drain tube was REALLY long and duct-taped to the outer skin. I had to cut off about 18 inches of black tubing.
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:14 PM   #32
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yes, there is an a/c unit, but it was not factory installed. Its "drip pan" (if that's what you call it) sits above the roof line. there's a hole in it in one corner, about the size of a nickel, that lets the water drip onto the roof. the drain tube isn't connected to it, because it wasn't designed for that type of setup.
there is some blocking in the space between the skins to brace-up the hole...probably hiding behind there.

(now that I think of it...how would this work on a white-box trailer with a flat roof? that can't be a good thing....I can see getting away with letting water run onto the roof of an A/S or other curved-roof trailer where it will run off. but I digress...).
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:17 PM   #33
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Lou,

Hi, I am new to the thread. I too purchased the Airv heat pump at the beginning of the year and will be replacing the armstrong on my 78 LY. I am not sure if I missed something in the thread, but I would like to know where you drilled out the Airv to connect the drain line.

Thanks, Slade Weaver
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Old 04-29-2005, 06:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
yes, there is an a/c unit, but it was not factory installed. Its "drip pan" (if that's what you call it) sits above the roof line. there's a hole in it in one corner, about the size of a nickel, that lets the water drip onto the roof. the drain tube isn't connected to it, because it wasn't designed for that type of setup.
there is some blocking in the space between the skins to brace-up the hole...probably hiding behind there.

(now that I think of it...how would this work on a white-box trailer with a flat roof? that can't be a good thing....I can see getting away with letting water run onto the roof of an A/S or other curved-roof trailer where it will run off. but I digress...).
Sorry I have taken so long to repost to this thread. If I don't get around to answering a thread for you then feel free to PM me.
I have a good excuse though! See my Axle Doctor thread.
As for the drain tube, it should be behind the bracing that you talked about.
You would have to, at least, remove the inside shroud, loosen the big old bolts clamping the A/C down. Then you would want to slid the A/C forward or backward on the trailer roof so you can get in and see behind the bracing.
As for the drip pan you are talking about, I am pretty sure I have seen something like that. It is just a tub, right? I am not sure if it can be modified. You should take some pictures and post them on here and we see what the general consensus is.
As for the flat roofed SOBs they let it run off onto the roof and then it makes its way down the front or the back of the trailer. YUCK! I have installed a ot of the units on SOBs. It is really easy on them as you just plunk it down and tighten it up. Nothing to it. Then again, it is sitting on the very top of a pile of firewood!
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Old 04-29-2005, 06:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sladew
Lou,

Hi, I am new to the thread. I too purchased the Airv heat pump at the beginning of the year and will be replacing the armstrong on my 78 LY. I am not sure if I missed something in the thread, but I would like to know where you drilled out the Airv to connect the drain line.

Thanks, Slade Weaver
Slade,
I am not sure if my set-up would be the same as yours but if you look at my pictures you will see a white plastic drain pan on bottom of the metal base of the A/C unit. This has an end that runs parallel with the curbside if the trailer when the A/C is mounted on the top of the trailer. I notched this drain even with the stiffening bracket, (U-shaped channel), that is mounted right to the metal base. You have to be within the 14"x14" opening to hook up to the drain tube of the trailer.
I then took a length of U-V stabilized hose, 3/8" ID and cut it to length to run from the notch that I made in the drain pan over to the 1/2" hole I drilled through the metal base.
I then attached a plastic 3/8" elbow to the piece of rubber tubing applied a hose clamp and stuck the elbow through the hole in the metal base.
From inside the trailer, I hose clamped another piece of 3/8" ID hose to the elbow.
I then used a 3/8" ID to 1/2" ID plastic reducer to hook up to the drain tube built into the trailer. I hose clamped both pieces of hose.
Up on the roof I made a polyurethane caulk "dam" to block the drainage from the drip pan. I also caulked the living daylights out out of the new drain tube to seal it onto the drip pan and to "glue" it to the drip pan.
If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

Lou
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:32 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
Ken,

I made use of my brother.
We removed the shroud so we would not damage it.
The bottom of the AC has a heavy-duty gasket that is ok to slide it along the top of the trailer. Position it over the hole and VIOLA!
I used two 8-foot step ladders with the steps facing each other. I walked up a couple of them and then my brother swung in towards the other step ladder and started up. With the two of us, we got it up there in less than a minute. It just took teamwork.
Did you look at my photos?
I am going to post another one that shows the A/C sitting on the roof and you can see the two step ladders facing each other.
Have you removed these photos? All I see in the gallery are the drain tube photos and the 'new toilet' photos. Just to complete the trilogy - yep, we need to fix/replace our commode, the blade isn't closing all the way anymore. But first things first:
We're shopping for an A/C now that the fridge is in.
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Old 06-02-2005, 09:34 PM   #37
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Still confused about the slinger wheel/drip tube...

Lou,

Andy says to drill a hole so that the water level doesn't make it up to the slinger wheel, but I notice that you don't allow the water anywhere near the slinger wheel. One of the features of the Carrier that appealled to me is that they designed their A/C units to use condensation to cool the evaporator via the slinger wheel.

This is why even Andy's explanation confuses me, still. My understanding is that the slinger is used to throw the water onto the evaporator. If that is the case it would make sense to position the drain hole to eliminate excess condensation that may runoff, but not necessarily be concerned about hitting the slinger wheel.

I've been to the Carrier website, but they are short on technical specifics. I would like to find someone who understands the "slinger wheel" feature and explain how it works to help me figure out the best placement for the drip tube to make use of the slinger wheel and eliminate water running down the side of my Overlander.

Thanks, Del
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Old 06-02-2005, 09:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delquattro
Lou,

Andy says to drill a hole so that the water level doesn't make it up to the slinger wheel, but I notice that you don't allow the water anywhere near the slinger wheel. One of the features of the Carrier that appealled to me is that they designed their A/C units to use condensation to cool the evaporator via the slinger wheel.

This is why even Andy's explanation confuses me, still. My understanding is that the slinger is used to throw the water onto the evaporator. If that is the case it would make sense to position the drain hole to eliminate excess condensation that may runoff, but not necessarily be concerned about hitting the slinger wheel.

I've been to the Carrier website, but they are short on technical specifics. I would like to find someone who understands the "slinger wheel" feature and explain how it works to help me figure out the best placement for the drip tube to make use of the slinger wheel and eliminate water running down the side of my Overlander.

Thanks, Del
Del,

Andy's hole location is actually a little more efficient than mine. At the time that I did my modification I did not know how Andy modified the Carrier. He has now posted where he makes his modification.
Both my method and Andy's method do work. I know that Andy's takes the moisture away from the slinger wheel. That is just fine though. The slinger wheel does not need the condensation. All the slinger wheel does is to take any condensation, if there is any, and throws it back against the evaporation coils. This helps minimize run-off.
If I could do the modification over again I would probably do it the way Andy does it.
The reason you modify the built-in drain pan on the Carrier is because there will be run-off in humid conditions. The area where the drain comes out of the A/C is on the curbside of the trailer. Condensation will then run down that side and onto your awning or on your head.
The slinger wheel will still pick up condensation. Once you get the A/C unit compare it to my pictures.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:09 PM   #39
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I noticed a hole...

Upon further examination of my new Carrier, I found a hole in the base pan directly under the slinger wheel. This hole negates any need for a hole to prevent water from building up high enough to hit the slinger wheel - there's no way it could. But, this also explains why AirV owners would still have water running down the side of their trailer.
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:37 AM   #40
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This AC thing is a mind bender. Seems there are three brands, Coleman, Dometic, and Carrier. Seems they all work well. I'm not considering the Coleman because I cann't find a website with much info. Seem to weight about the same within 10 lbs, all are heavy.

So in cse I do a roof top I need to run some #10 wire. Does the drain hose come up inside the 14" hole for the AC or do them have a separate hole in the roof, the latter I am not willing to do?

I like the lower profile Dometic but not the water draining into the trailer.
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Old 06-13-2005, 08:46 AM   #41
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I think #12 is sufficient; pretty sure that's what is in mine (factory pre-wired), and its on a dedicated circuit. the drain tube runs from the 14" hole down between the walls, to a point just forward of the wheel well on the street side. no extra roof-hole required.
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