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Old 10-21-2013, 08:58 AM   #1
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1994 30' Excella
alexandria , Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Hydroflame furnace circuit board?

Over the past camping season our furnace has been acting somewhat flaky. Sometime it would work perfect and other time it would not fire at all.
So I decided to take the furnace apart and clean it, test the various switches and check the condition of the heat exchanger, etc...
Put everything back together and the flame would only stay lit for approximately 8 seconds.
I spoke with my local rv shop and they said the circuit board was probably going bad.
I took some extra time and cleaned the contacts on the circuit board and all the furnace work perfectly.

Question 1: If the board needed to be replaced what do you use? I did a net search and there seems to be quite a difference in prices? Dinosaur boards????

Question 2: Is there a product that can be put on the circuit board connectors to help with connectivity and protect against corrosion?
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Steve, Christy, Anna and Phoebe (Border Collie)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley Arrow hitch with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #2
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1996 36' Clipper Bus
Tub City , British Columbia
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I have some of my experience with these furnace posted here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...tml#post902539

I would tend to believe the circuit board either works or not and intermittent problems are beyond the board.

The cost of a new sail switch is minimal if you question that switch.

For connection weather protection you can use a touch of dielectric grease which is available in small tubes and used for battery connections etc..

See here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease

Dave
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #3
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2002 19' Bambi
Lafayette , California
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We had two circuit boards go bad on our Hydroflame furnace and then replaced the second one with a Dinosaur board which has worked well ever since. We have replaced the sail switch twice. Switch number three works nearly all the time and, if it does not, banging on the side of the furnace frees it up and everything works.

If the sail switch is stuck, the furnace will not ignite at all, so that does not sound like your problem. Our gas regulator was not allowing enough gas pressure to the furnace (and the rest of the trailer), so we replaced that.

Our stash of spare parts include a new Dinosaur board and a new sail switch. While writing this, I began to think maybe I should buy a spare regulator, too .

Tim
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #4
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1994 30' Excella
alexandria , Kentucky
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Thanks Dave and Tim, there seems to be some good reading in the link. I will read it again when I have some more time to digest it.
I thought about dielectric grease to protect the connector. I guess I could carefully smear a tiny bit around the outside of the connector to keep the corrosion down but I was worried it would seep into the connector causing connectivity problems.
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Steve, Christy, Anna and Phoebe (Border Collie)
1994 Classic 30'11" Excella - rear twin
2009 Dodge 2500, 6 Speed Auto, CTD, Quad Cab, Short Bed
Hensley Arrow hitch with adjustable stinger
WBCCI # 3072
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