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Old 01-12-2014, 11:53 AM   #15
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2014 30' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
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Back in the day, we had an "anticipator" setting in the thermostat to match the setting number in the furnace manual. This setting helped compensate for the startup time until the heat exchanger was hot and the blower came on and the run time after the fire was out to cool down the heat exchanger. That was supposed to keep the temperature swings plus or minus one degree of the set value.

That concept worked some of the time, especially if the furnace and thermostat were branded from the same manufacturer.

I wonder if both A/C units in a dual installation have the heat pump functionality? I may get that answer when our unit is completely built, delivered and I have access to the manuals.

The comment above about sealing the wire hole behind the thermostat going into the refrigerator space is a good start. Perhaps a thin insulator pad between the wall and the back of the thermostat would also help prevent mis-information being input into the thermostat enclosure from the wall itself?

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Old 01-12-2014, 12:16 PM   #16
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Austin (Hays County) , Texas
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Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
Be sure to caulk this hole to minimize air infiltration to the thermostat.
It also helps to insulate the thermostat from the woodwork it is mounted on. It takes a long time to get cold-soaked woodwork up to the air temperature. Hence the big initial overshoot. Once the woodwork is warm, the air cools more quickly and the mass of the woodwork delays the furnace coming on again. In my previous trailer, I put a pad under the thermostat and it helped.

John W. Irwin
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:59 AM   #17
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2013 23' Flying Cloud
Bainbridge Island , Washington
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In our 23D the hottest air comes out of the vent under the forward dinette table, that vent is closest to the heater. The thermostat is near the vent farthest from the heater - the coolest vent - and also away from the air return (which in the 23D is just opposite the door.

So naturally they front of the trailer is too hot and the rear too cold.

I agree that a fan is a great solution and it is what we do in the boat we live aboard.

Hella makes some very quite 12VDC 2-speed fans that draw a 1/4 amp or less.

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