Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-12-2014, 11:53 AM   #15
Rivet Master
switz's Avatar

2014 31' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 5,075
Images: 8
Back in the day, we had an "anticipator" setting in the thermostat to match the setting number in the furnace manual. This setting helped compensate for the startup time until the heat exchanger was hot and the blower came on and the run time after the fire was out to cool down the heat exchanger. That was supposed to keep the temperature swings plus or minus one degree of the set value.

That concept worked some of the time, especially if the furnace and thermostat were branded from the same manufacturer.

I wonder if both A/C units in a dual installation have the heat pump functionality? I may get that answer when our unit is completely built, delivered and I have access to the manuals.

The comment above about sealing the wire hole behind the thermostat going into the refrigerator space is a good start. Perhaps a thin insulator pad between the wall and the back of the thermostat would also help prevent mis-information being input into the thermostat enclosure from the wall itself?

WBCCI Life Member 5123, AIR 70341, 4CU, WD9EMC

TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell

2014 31' Classic model 30 twin beds, 50 amp service, 900 watt solar system, Centramatics, Dill TPMS, disc brakes, 16" tires & wheels
switz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2014, 12:16 PM   #16
Rivet Master
Pahaska's Avatar
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Hays County , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,091
Images: 3
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
Be sure to caulk this hole to minimize air infiltration to the thermostat.
It also helps to insulate the thermostat from the woodwork it is mounted on. It takes a long time to get cold-soaked woodwork up to the air temperature. Hence the big initial overshoot. Once the woodwork is warm, the air cools more quickly and the mass of the woodwork delays the furnace coming on again. In my previous trailer, I put a pad under the thermostat and it helped.

John W. Irwin
2014.5 Touring Coach, "Sabre-Dog IV"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2014, 08:59 AM   #17
2 Rivet Member
2013 23' Flying Cloud
Bainbridge Island , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 63
In our 23D the hottest air comes out of the vent under the forward dinette table, that vent is closest to the heater. The thermostat is near the vent farthest from the heater - the coolest vent - and also away from the air return (which in the 23D is just opposite the door.

So naturally they front of the trailer is too hot and the rear too cold.

I agree that a fan is a great solution and it is what we do in the boat we live aboard.

Hella makes some very quite 12VDC 2-speed fans that draw a 1/4 amp or less.

Best, ~Cars

2013 Flying Cloud 23D
2001 BMW X5 4.4i (TV)
2004 BMW 330/Ci 6-spd
2005 BWM R1200ST
1977 Cessna C177B
warmrain is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:32 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.