I need some help. My furnace ( I think is a NT30SP in my 84 Excella 31') just stopped working a couple of days ago. I called our local RV place and they can work on it. I don't want to move the trailer as it took a lot of work to get it where it is...slipping and sliding all the way up the we hill !). So the problem is, I'm not sure how to take the furnace out? Any direction would be most appreciated.
Not sure if my '69 Safari furnace is comparable, but it was quite simple to get the furnace out. After carefully shutting off/removing the LP tank it's a simple matter of removing the LP feed line (use two wrenches) at the furnace, removing the exterior vent cover (mine was screen) and the exterior screw that holds the vent assembly to the trailer wall. Then I went back inside and removed the one screw that held the furnace from inside and it slid out. If your rubber vent seal is brittle be careful with it, or have it replaced. Much easier to 'bench test' the furnace outside the trailer. Mine was actually recalled by Suburban back in the day and the very unsafe recall issue had never been rectified by any of the PO's, it was a disaster waiting to happen.
Before pulling you may want to check a few other issues (battery voltage, thermostat etc) as recommended by a good repair manual like Woodall's. Would be a shame to go thru the pulling if it was something other than the unit itself. good luck
You can take the cover off the outer box and then slide the guts out without taking out the box. It makes it lighter and easier but you need to disconnect the electrical connector from the side of the box before you start pulling out the guts.
The problem with removing the NT30 furnaces without removing the case is that there is a retaining screw in the front of the unit holding the frame of the furnace to the box, and if long enough....to the trailer floor. This screw is very easy to get to ....if you have access to the furnace from the outside, as in an outer door.
Unfotunately, most Airstream installs do not use this mounting method and only reveal the intake and exhaust ports thru the skin. This requires you to remove the ducting ( only a quarter turn fitting) and then the entire furnace and outer casing as a unit, as you can not access this pesky little retaining screw from the rear of the furnace. Don't forget to unplug the 4 wires leading to it (assuming you have a plug) or mark the wires before cutting and add 1/4"insulated spade connectors for re-assembly.
Also, you have to turn off the LP at the tanks BEFORE you disconnect the LP feed line. If you are going to use the trailer, be sure to add the appropriate size flair plug to the line before returning the trailer to service.
OTOH, I have seen some Suburban models that have this little screw at the rear, or interior side of the furnace. In this case, the units can be removed without removing the casing. It sort of depends on the mounting method and specific model. The screw should be obvious to you (if you have it) once you remove the interior cover of the unit. It is locateed right inside th cover smack in the middle of the unit at the bottom position.
I finally got it out. But there is a small pipe that extends from the bottom of the heater into the floor about 2 inches. If I raised the heater up, there was not enough room to pull it and the pipe out before the heater was above the supporting lower bar for the oven. So I had to clip the pipe off the lower part of the oven. What is this pipe? Did I do something very bad?
...there is a small pipe that extends from the bottom of the heater into the floor about 2 inches. ... I had to clip the pipe off the lower part of the oven. What is this pipe? Did I do something very bad?
I'm going to take a big leap and assume you know it's not the propane pipe.
The only other guess I have is that it's a water drain--is it possible that there can be condensation in the burner and vent (maybe when the heater is cold and just starting) that needs to be drained? Or maybe in the forced air path for the same reason (cold at start)?
My experience on old heaters is that they are a pile of rust, so there's got to be water involved somehow.
Well its out. Its been at the repair center and they got it going. But when I went to pick it up, it wouldn't fire. We replace the board and it still wouldn't fire. The original board tested fine. Since I really need it to work, I started to think about what I was spending on a 1984 furnace. I bought a new one. I think its the right decision. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
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