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Old 10-07-2014, 05:02 PM   #1
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1978 Argosy 24
Cornersville , Tennessee
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 16
How to remove 1978 Argosy furnace?

Hey guys! 1978 Argosy 24 here, her name is Dharma and we're in full on remodeling mode… albeit very slowly. I have to work on her when I get a chance, and work has been super busy the last few weeks.

But I have all my supplies on hand to start building back, and I'm sooo close to being done with the repair portion of things. My big stumbling block has been a rotten area in the subfloor underneath the furnace. I've got the sink cabinet pulled all the way out (in one piece, I was shocked!), the ductwork is detached from the furnace, the plumbing lines are no longer bracketed to the floor, and the fridge on the other side of the trailer is gone. All I need to do now is pull the furnace out, replace one piece of subfloor, clean the furnace up really well and put it back. Then I can move on to scrubbing everything and the fun stuff.

My question is, how do I remove the furnace? I see the gas line, I know it needs to be removed. And I assume the vent outside needs to be removed? Other than that I don't see any brackets holding it in.

Also, any tips on cleaning the furnace while it's out would be greatly appreciated… I want to make sure I put it back in the best condition I can.

Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:54 PM   #2
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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There are a couple of screws in the bottom of the housing just inside the access panel. The rear of the unit is usually held in by the tubes running to the vent. There is a long screw in the top vent from outside. You can also remove the outside vent casting and pull it straight out. If there is nothing on top of the furnace, it should move around. Remove the duct hoses and the gas line. Also remove the plug that has the wires on it.

Perry
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:16 PM   #3
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1978 Argosy 24
Cornersville , Tennessee
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Thanks Perryg! I'll check that tomorrow, I didn't even think to look inside the access panel, but in my defense it was close to dark and I was working with a flashlight.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:29 PM   #4
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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I should think a 70's era furnace would be a strong candidate for replacement....not cleaning.
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:10 PM   #5
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1978 Argosy 24
Cornersville , Tennessee
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Where would a person go to find a new furnace? Are the new ones the same as the 70s models?
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:11 PM   #6
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1978 Argosy 24
Cornersville , Tennessee
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Oh, and thanks for the info… furnace is out! Now to figure out this whole subfloor thing…
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:34 PM   #7
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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Vintage Trailer Supply / PPLMotor Homes / Inland RV. Some modification of the newer model furnaces may be necessary for your vintage AS. Andy at Inland RV would be able to give you more information on that, as well as recommend the proper model (No, I don't work for Inland....but he is a wealth of information...and follows this forum).
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:32 PM   #8
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1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix , Arizona
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I put a new furnace into my 78 Trade Wind, and the only modification I had to make was to shorten and re-flare the gas line. The furnace was easy compared to the hideous tinkertoy cabinet mess.

Seems like I got a decent deal on mine from PPL motorhomes....
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:03 AM   #9
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1978 Argosy 24
Cornersville , Tennessee
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Shew, Vintage Trailer Supply has replacements for $625. Not a bad price, but not in the budget today… I may still have to clean up the old one and plan on supplementing with a ceramic heater if I'm able to get in the trailer this year.
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:55 AM   #10
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1978 29' Ambassador
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I bought a new Suburban heater for my 1978 28' International from PPL. Mud Dobbers had built a large nest in the squirrel cage and the PO had tried to run it until the fan motor melted down. The advertised replacement went in fine but the outflow vents did not line up with the old sheet metal duct work. The gas line connect was also in a different place. I made it work. An option is to just replace the motor - readily available and doable if you're handy. WATCH THE SQUIRREL CAGE rotation direction. It is non-intuative. These motors have oillite bronze bushings and if it don't squeal now, it will soon. Check for rust in the firebox. Also check (or just replace) the thermocouple. Lastly, new or rebuilt, put a SS screen in the inlet/exhaust ports to keep the critters out. All the major players sell these.
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