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Old 12-21-2015, 10:35 AM   #29
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Don't think it will work there

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Originally Posted by Tom_T View Post
Tex,

Double check your water heater space when you get that Suburban in hand to measure it & the fittings, cuz you may find it can tuck in nicely next to the water heater, "Y" off the gas & 12V already there, vent out the same place as the water heater (door or wall vent) - plus not give up that drawer space under the fridge - with space so precious in these smaller AS/Vintage Kin trailers.

Good Luck & Happy Holidays!
Tom
///////
Water heater is under the (rear) bed and vents out the curb side wall just forward of the end cap curve. Mounting furnace behind water heater would be nice in terms of access to LP and power but:
1. Would have to be mounted on curved wall.
2. Would be a long way from the front of the bed, which would require reconfiguring grill arrangement somehow.
3. Would add weight in the rear, decreasing tongue weight.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:40 AM   #30
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The good news is that it will fit nicely in place of my lowest kitchen drawer. No cabinet mods required :-) Just need to cut a hole in the shell for the vent.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:18 AM   #31
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Need advice

OK, furnace installed in cabinet, 12 volt and thermostat wiring run, propane lines connected. Last task is to connect intake and vent piping through shell. Both are sleeved pipes that are inserted from outside the trailer. Vent pipe can accommodate a large range of distances but inlet pipe can only handle a small variation. Based on my cabinet depth and the slight curvature of the shell, the inlet pipe is approximately 3/16" too long. Even though it is just a straight, single wall pipe, instructions warn against cutting it and recommend purchasing a shorter custom part from the manufacturer. I see no reason why the pipe cannot be simply cut to length. Anyone tried this?
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:56 AM   #32
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You might consider building a little frame around the vent pipe to help compensate for the curvature and keep the assembly vertical. I think it also has a more "finished" look.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:06 AM   #33
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Did you fabricate that yourself?
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:14 AM   #34
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I think you could cut it no problem if you are careful... But,,,, if you do screw up the cut, then you can order a new custom tube...


Brevi tempore!
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:34 AM   #35
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Don't see how one could screw up the cut. It is just a straight, single wall pipe.
From the manual:
Under no circumstances should the standard 5" intake tube be cut or altered to adapt to the 21" - 23 1/4" range.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:35 AM   #36
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Did you fabricate that yourself?
Yes. Just some scrap sheet and 1/16" aluminum cap channel.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:06 AM   #37
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I'm wondering (hoping?) the exhaust leaves through the top pipe? Otherwise, with heat rising, you'd be more likely to pull the carbon monoxide exhaust back into the inlet directly above it.

I'll assume the manufacturer thought of this.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:07 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Yes. Just some scrap sheet and 1/16" aluminum cap channel.
Beautifully done!! Looks almost mass-produced, in a good way.
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:40 AM   #39
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Yes

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I'm wondering (hoping?) the exhaust leaves through the top pipe? Otherwise, with heat rising, you'd be more likely to pull the carbon monoxide exhaust back into the inlet directly above it.

I'll assume the manufacturer thought of this.
The top pipe is the outlet and the bottom pipe is the inlet so exhaust gases should not enter inlet.
I had no trouble cutting the pipe. Stainless cover plate needs to be "caulked" to shell. Anyone know if butyl tape would work ok? Much less messy..
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:37 AM   #40
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Installation pics

I was very lucky that no cutting of the cabinet was required. Furnace fit nicely in the space previously occupied by the lowest kitchen drawer.
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