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Old 06-24-2008, 11:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny View Post
i wonder if a smaller hose could be fished inside the old one? it would not handle as must water but it might help.

is anyone a heart surgeon? lol
It can be done!

Difficult, but possible.

First, you have to snake a pull wire thru the existing tube. Then, attach a smaller tube (they don't really have to be as big as they are!!!) and lube it up before pulling it thru.

It might take several tries, but it's worth a shot.
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:32 AM   #22
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After you clear your tube you may want to take a small square of screen and zip-tie it around the end of the tube to keep out daubers etc.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:48 AM   #23
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why couldn't you snake a fish line through the present tube, attach a new tube to the fished line, and pull the old line out? Is it tied into the inside of the wall with a one way?
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Old 06-26-2008, 01:45 AM   #24
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Smile A/C drain tube

One of the things I asked the service manager, why they could not attach another drain line to the existing one and pull it through? He said the drain line is stapled in various spots inside walls.

Did not know airstream would staple something to metal? I will have to check out my manual this weekend and see what options I may have.

Thank you.
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:37 AM   #25
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One of the things I asked the service manager, why they could not attach another drain line to the existing one and pull it through? He said the drain line is stapled in various spots inside walls.

Did not know airstream would staple something to metal? I will have to check out my manual this weekend and see what options I may have.

Thank you.
The 'service manager' must think that Airstream uses wood 2 X 2's for framing like all of those SOB's I didn't know that you could 'staple' into aluminum!

Hopefully, he meant that the drain hose has 'strain relief' clamps or retainers at various points to hold it to the frame. Even so, they shou dnot be compressing the drain tube to the point that you couldn't slide a smaller tube inside.

It's worth a shot!
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Old 06-26-2008, 12:39 PM   #26
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I did put a new line in mine 3 years ago and it's still doing fine. It was quite easy in my Overlander although 4 inches of the tube can be seen next to the ceiling. I ran the new line on the curbside between the back of the oven and the wall and ended it between the tires. I did contemplate to end it into the sink's drain pipe but changed my mind so I could collect the water outside in a bottle if needed.
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Old 07-20-2008, 10:22 PM   #27
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I'm afraid to ask why you collect it in a bottle????
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:12 AM   #28
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I guess it may be to top-up the battery, as it's a condensate. However, it probably picks up a load of impurities on it's way to the tube outlet.
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:16 PM   #29
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I've got something going on.

Greetings.

The last time I used the AC (newer DuoTherm 11000 unit):

1) The inside seemed to cool down, but remained a bit humid.

2) I used to see water dripping at a good rate from the drip tube outside the AS, but not this time. It was warm and humid outside.

3) I had water dripping from the AC on to the floor (not from rain, there wasn't any).

I actually saw this thread BEFORE using the AC the last time and had a good idea of what I had to do.

My question is, like some of you mentioned above, if I go with blowing out the tube from the outside, it's just going to blow all the crap around the (drip-tray?) compartment thing and quickly clog again.

So with that in mind, my next attempt would be to tackle this from the interior. I see the black drain tube and clamp alright, but in the manufacture of my AS, someone got generous with the vulcum or some kind of glue and the clamp and end of tube a encased in this.

Is there a way to get this pan off to clean it out, and do what I need to do without having to go on the roof?

Looking forward for your advice.

Jonathan
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:32 PM   #30
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Jonathon,

Your post coincides with activity I just performed on my home's outside air conditioning unit.

While interior humidity was not a problem, I noticed the AC unit appeared to have trouble ridding itself of condensate. I will snip my myriad of detective steps, and just share the punchline.

With the AC unit off, I added 1/2 cup of Clorox to the pan underneath the evaporator coils. The unit was switched on 10 or 15 minutes later.

Everything is okay now - The Clorox killed or cleaned everything stopping up the plumbing.

Tom
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:48 PM   #31
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Hi Tom,

Thanks for that. What I need to find out is how to get to the pan in the ceiling in order for me to de-crap it. Not sure if there are screws or something that would be miraculously accessable to perform the job at hand.

I just need to get to the space that needs cleaning somehow.

Anyone?

Jonathan
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Old 08-23-2008, 05:28 PM   #32
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I understand your angst

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev View Post
... I just need to get to the space that needs cleaning somehow. ...
Jonathon,

While my feet never left the ground, there was a certain amount of disassembly required to accomplish my goal. During the disassembly, I wondered, "What would an AC professional do in this situation?"

For yard work, I utilize a pump-up sprayer filled with RoundUP. The next time my home AC appears to need Clorox, I believe I will pump up the sprayer with Clorox and shoot the mixture through the condensate drain so that it ends up where I want it to be. No disassembly required.

As far as your Airstream goes, I see no ill effects should you implement this idea. Should you go overboard & have Clorox running down the side of your American Classic then hose it off.

Tom
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:18 AM   #33
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These forums are great. I didn't know mine had a drain tube. If I have one it must definitely be plugged. Is it on the curbside in the wheel well?

Thanks,

Cory
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:33 AM   #34
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These forums are great. I didn't know mine had a drain tube. If I have one it must definitely be plugged. Is it on the curbside in the wheel well?

Thanks,

Cory
Generally - YES - but in your older model the installer could have put it anywhere.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:45 AM   #35
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Once a year, I take a small air compressor & blow air up the tubes, works fine.
A tire store will let you use theirs, also.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:44 AM   #36
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It was not in the wheel well. I found one about 2 feet from the edge of the roadside right behind the axles about inline with the A/C unit. Have to get the air compressor out there and check it. And I found a clear rubber hose in the battery compartment, right above the opening just hanging there. Pulled on it, seemed attached good. Don't have a clue what it would be for. Maybe something for the toilet?
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Old 09-14-2008, 07:06 PM   #37
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It was not in the wheel well. I found one about 2 feet from the edge of the roadside right behind the axles about inline with the A/C unit. Have to get the air compressor out there and check it. And I found a clear rubber hose in the battery compartment, right above the opening just hanging there. Pulled on it, seemed attached good. Don't have a clue what it would be for. Maybe something for the toilet?

The one in the battery compartment may be for venting the offgassas from the battery while charging. When under charge the battery wil give off hydrogen gas - very flammable. Some units - my 66 Caravel has one - had a sealed battery compartment box and a hose to the outside allowed the gases to vent safely.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:03 PM   #38
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Tying a screen over the tube outlet is a great idea! The mud daubers fill damn near any open hole they can get to. I've got a leaf blower that I left out one spring, tucked in the overhead rafters of the camp porch, and it must have raised at least a dozen mud daubers in the recessed screw holes.
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Old 07-05-2010, 11:11 PM   #39
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My air conditioner is leaking water inside too. Is it really okay to use an air compressor on the tube? I have a 2000 Bambi. There are several ideas mentioned on the forum just not sure what to do. <><
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:04 AM   #40
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I use a length of weed wacker cord fed up from the bottom as far as I can get it to go, then cut it off and chuck it up in a screw gun and whirl it around some. It opens up the algae in the evarporator just fine.
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