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Old 03-19-2013, 08:30 AM   #15
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87 is probably not that bad with a fan blowing and low humidity.

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Old 03-19-2013, 08:51 AM   #16
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Might be cheaper just to point that thing westward in the summers and head up to Cloudcroft or thereabouts!

Lynn
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:45 AM   #17
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We put 15000 BTU on our 22' Safari, planning on Texas heat. It will keep our little trailer nice and cool in full sun in a Ft. Worth mid summer day. We found out when the AC in our house quit over 4th of July weekend. The trailer made a nice refuge for four very hot days.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:50 AM   #18
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Our 27' gets warm with the one 13,500 unit, too.

We learned the following cheats help a bunch, all proven at Burning Man:

Go to Lowes or HD and buy some reflectix insulation and cut out covers for the roof vents and skylights. Use small velcro self-stick tabs to make them removable. The tabs are at Lowes too. In our trailer, the foil reflecix blends in with the shiny aluminum interior sheets.

Also cut reflectix "inserts" for the windows. One can place them between the window and the screen, from outside the trailer, or simply let the curtains hold them in place. Sandwiching them behind the windows works a little better, but requires a little more effort.

As mention before, use a fan(s) to help move the air.

Start EARLY. Accept being a little cool in the night or early morning in trade for being cooler during the heat of the day. Keeping a 75 degree trailer below 85 degrees is a whole lot easier than trying to cool a 90 degree trailer in 105 degree heat.

As for adding a second AC, a complete upgrade to 50 amp is not absolutely required. I have seen many AS trailers that simply added a second 20 amp shore line which powers only the second AC unit. One only plugs it into shore power when the second AC is needed.

We considered the second AC install, but have been satisfied with the solutions above.


Regards,

JD
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:55 AM   #19
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On the east coast we head for the mountains to get away from the heat. Go to hot places in the winter and cold places in the summer.

Perry
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eubank View Post
Might be cheaper just to point that thing westward in the summers and head up to Cloudcroft or thereabouts!

Lynn
Hmmmmm!! I like Cloudcroft. Nice little town, preety scenery around the area as well.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:10 PM   #21
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I upgraded to 15,000btu about 18 months ago on 2005 Classic (home is Mississippi). We have appreciated a noticeable difference.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdalrymple View Post
Our 27' gets warm with the one 13,500 unit, too.

We learned the following cheats help a bunch, all proven at Burning Man:

Go to Lowes or HD and buy some reflectix insulation and cut out covers for the roof vents and skylights. Use small velcro self-stick tabs to make them removable. The tabs are at Lowes too. In our trailer, the foil reflecix blends in with the shiny aluminum interior sheets.

Also cut reflectix "inserts" for the windows. One can place them between the window and the screen, from outside the trailer, or simply let the curtains hold them in place. Sandwiching them behind the windows works a little better, but requires a little more effort.

As mention before, use a fan(s) to help move the air.

Start EARLY. Accept being a little cool in the night or early morning in trade for being cooler during the heat of the day. Keeping a 75 degree trailer below 85 degrees is a whole lot easier than trying to cool a 90 degree trailer in 105 degree heat.

As for adding a second AC, a complete upgrade to 50 amp is not absolutely required. I have seen many AS trailers that simply added a second 20 amp shore line which powers only the second AC unit. One only plugs it into shore power when the second AC is needed.

We considered the second AC install, but have been satisfied with the solutions above.


Regards,

JD
Don't stop with the windows. Jeff, I don't know if you noticed on playa, but I have the reflectix stuff on my walls too as much as I can. Helps a lot, and in the winter too. I've seen playa sun heat the outside walls to over 140'sF on the Blue stripes, over 120F inside. With the reflectix it'll stay at less than 90. A good portable swamp cooler can do the job then but the humidity is less than 10% out there. I'd like to try the special white paint on the roof some time.

If you do have a separate power cable, do you have problems with voltage between the commons?
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #23
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I'll add onto the 20 degree comments- It's not so much 20 degrees from inside to outside, it's actually 20 degrees from the AC intake to the discharge. Straight from Colemans Owners manual-

"As a general rule, air entering the air conditioner will be
cooled about 15 to 20 degrees, depending on the outside
temperature and humidity conditions.
For example, if the air entering the return air grilles in the air
conditioner is 80 degrees F., the air leaving the discharge
grilles in the air conditioner will be 60 to 65 degrees F.
As long as this temperature difference is being maintained
between the return air and discharge air, the air conditioner is
operating at its capacity. If the desired inside temperature
(normally 80 degrees F) cannot be maintained, then the heat
gain of the RV is too great for the capacity of the air
conditioner."

I agree with all of the above suggestions to help cool off the interior, we broke down and added a second AC to the bedroom of our 34'.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:34 AM   #24
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I think JD gives good advice to start cooling early and not expect the a.c. to cool a hot trailer to comfortable temps without a lot of running.
We have a 25 Safari with the 11,000 btu unit. We take the trailer from Tucson back to Colorado in the second week in June and all through Arizona and southern New Mexico it is usually in the 100's. When we take the trailer out of storage in the afternoon, it is blazing hot. We park the trailer put the ac on max and go to a cool place to hang out. After 4 hours or so when it is dark, the inside of the trailer is habitable. We keep the ac cranked down cold all night even though we sleep under a blanket and it would be tempting to open the windows. The next day we start out at 75 and in the afternoon the trailer is 85 but comfortable when it is 105+ outside. Tucson has low humidity in June.
We found we were comfortable in Florida in July because outside temps were in the low 90's and the a.c. did a good job of dehumidifying the air.
Our Safari has few small windows and they are glass except for the vents. Some models have lots of windows. For those I would get material like a windshield reflector and put tape it to the inside of the windows and vents. Nothing builds up heat faster than hot sun shining through plastic windows and vents.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:23 PM   #25
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There are some other threads on this subject. 50A service upgrade and twin A/C units is what "works" for those for whom extended high heat (and/or high humidity) is experienced for extended periods.

What I've done is this:

1] Service the A/C you have. Not just an extra set of filters, but clean the condensor (aerosol coil cleaner) and evaporator. Waterproof covers for interior furnishings.

2] REFLECTIX for roof vents and windows is good, but with complementary fabric cover for interior side and charcoal for exterior (looks much nicer) and construct so as to be a interference fit on windows and industrial velcro for vents. Vents really do need a true exterior cover of their own, not just interior. One need not cover all windows, but some windows won't be used in high heat (such as behind front cover, etc; but it still needs insulation).

3] An oscillating table fan. Orient so that fan also pushes air BACK to A/C unit. Check seal around refrigerator, and oven exhaust fan vent and any exterior compartment doors (just need loose insulation to block off).

4] Afternoon shade. There is no substitute, in the end.

5] Don't turn off A/C. And don't turn down fan speed. It takes about 48-hours to completely cool down a TT that has been days in high heat. Open cabinets, etc.

6] Humidity control. A de-humidifier can take the load off an A/C unit on some days. I leave my A/C off on those days and run only the dehumidifier when I am gone. And then turn off, and turn on A/C. Takes very little time, relatively, to have cool dry air.

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Old 04-20-2013, 06:18 AM   #26
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One thing I did to assist in cutting down on the heat was to fabricate insulation pieces for the Vista windows out of 1/2 inch foam board. It's thin enough to allow the pull down shade to slide over it. The windows have some sort of deterioration between the panes, so there's not a big loss without those ugly windows open.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #27
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There are some who have experimented with putting water misters on the roof. This would work really good in dry climates.

Perry
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:24 PM   #28
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Water misters work whenever the sun is shining on the roof. The heat from the sun is removed from the skin as steam which can even be seen with the right back lighting. Turning the misters on results in a 10-15 interior temperature drop within 30 minutes.

If you have hard water the stains left by the minerals in the water look ugly, but from my perspective of an all time hottest summer two years ago the stains were a secondary consideration.
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