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Old 02-02-2007, 04:47 PM   #15
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Thanks for the advice. I'm thinking I just spent $100.00 for nothing.

Greg
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:14 PM   #16
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post #6 you indicate the bearing felt like gravel was in them. Maybe you got lucky here and avoided a breakdown when you needed heat the most. I'm still interested in the resolution of the high amp reading.
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:38 PM   #17
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High Amps

Just out of curiosity, turn everything off; try disconecting the positive terminal and putting a voltemeter meter from the positive terminal to the line. There should be no draw. See if the installed meter has a reading. Then try various appliances/lights etc. one at a time. Turn each off before progressing. Repeat readings from volts to amps for each source. If there is a bad meter reading you will fugure it ourt real quick. If there is something shorting the high reading should show up somewhere. If you find it get out the service manual and track down that wire from the panel to whatever caused the spike in amps. I wonder if your ampmeter was hooked up correctly?
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:49 AM   #18
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Try reading a know load such as a 12 volt light bulb. Current = watts / voltage. I sounds to me that your meter reading is off by a factor od 10 which would make the heater fan draw 2.8 amps or right on target. If the meter is anolog, make sure you are reading the right scale. This can be a little tricky if your unfamilar with the meter. If the fan turns freely, I'm betting on either your on the wrong setting for the meter or your reading the wrong scale.
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:30 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
I could not find anybody to rebuild my old motor. So, I ordered a new one. I installed it today. I am still measuring 25 amps when the motor is turning. Am I reading the my Trimetric meter incorrectly? It has the 500ma shunt connected to it. Any guesses?

Greg
Greg,

I would suspect your meter as being part of the problem. A/C compressors generally draw 12-14 amps while running, and a fan motor should be in the 5-7 amp range, similar to what the furnace should draw. You did the right thing in changing your motor if the bearings were noisy.......that is a prelude to motor failure and lock-up!

I would dump your meter (as far as amp measurements go) and go to Sears and get one of their $50 AC/DC amp clamp meters. They are accurate enough to measure most applications and you just clamp it around the wire you want to measure. I use one as a back-up to my $500 Fluke meter.
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:47 AM   #20
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I sure hope it is not the meter. It cost $200.00 and is supposed to be very reliable. I'm using the digital Trimetric meter. It is multifunctional and monitors volts, amps, and percentage full of the batteries. It also has programable reminders for other battery issues. I know that when I turn on one 12 volt light, the meter registers 6-8 amps. Is that a correct reading for one light bulb?

Thanks again to everybody for your help in trying to resolve this matter. I'm sure we can solve the mystery.

Greg
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
I sure hope it is not the meter. It cost $200.00 and is supposed to be very reliable. I'm using the digital Trimetric meter. It is multifunctional and monitors volts, amps, and percentage full of the batteries. It also has programable reminders for other battery issues. I know that when I turn on one 12 volt light, the meter registers 6-8 amps. Is that a correct reading for one light bulb?

Thanks again to everybody for your help in trying to resolve this matter. I'm sure we can solve the mystery.

Greg
Volts X Amps = Watts
12 Volts X 6-8 Amps = 72-96 Watts
Do you know the wattage for the bulbs you are lighting?
Your numbers sound high....
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:13 PM   #22
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I pulled a bulb from the light. The markings on the side of the bulb are F5 and S1141. What wattage is this? Am I using the wrong bulbs for my TT?

Greg
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:15 PM   #23
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Hi, Greg,

I'm also not familiar with that meter, but it's possible that it's adjustable for different shunts - and you need to match the settings to the right shunt. I have an older Fluke that can measure up to 1 amp built-in, up to ten with an optional ext. shunt, and up to, I think, 30 with another shunt.

Lamar
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:59 PM   #24
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I got the meter with my new converter from bestconveter.com. Good stuff and good people to help answer my install questions. Thanks Lamar for reminding me about the proper shunt. I checked my packing slip and found that I had been sent a 100ma shunt. I had the meter set for a 500ma shunt. After adjusting the meter for the right shunt all that changed was the decimal place. So, instead of reading 26 amps when the fan motor is running, now I read 2.6 . And, when a light is on instead of reading 7 amps. I now read .7 . Would this be the right amperage for a light or the furnace fan?

Greg
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:27 AM   #25
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That sound much better.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
I got the meter with my new converter from bestconveter.com. Good stuff and good people to help answer my install questions. Thanks Lamar for reminding me about the proper shunt. I checked my packing slip and found that I had been sent a 100ma shunt. I had the meter set for a 500ma shunt. After adjusting the meter for the right shunt all that changed was the decimal place. So, instead of reading 26 amps when the fan motor is running, now I read 2.6 . And, when a light is on instead of reading 7 amps. I now read .7 . Would this be the right amperage for a light or the furnace fan?

Greg
Now you're in the right ballpark!!!
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:32 AM   #27
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Well this is good news. But, one thing I don't understand is why does my furnace fan draw 2.6 amps when it is marked on the furnance door at 5.5 amps? And some of the contributors to this thread have suggested the amp value to be at 8 or 9. How could my amperage draw be so much less than the normal value?

Greg
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:34 PM   #28
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Data sheet v. Door Label?

Greg-

As I noted above, Post #8 links to a pdf file of Suburban's own data sheets, and the draw for the furnaces is shown at around 2.8 or 2.9 Amps, depending on model number.. Glad meter problem resolved... All I can think to add is that maybe the total load when motor is starting and control circuits are running and electric propane valve are opening is a max of 5 Amps. Steady state running for fan with valves open should be less than 3 Amps..

I'd also agree that replacing a motor with gravelly bearings is a good investment in peace of mind for some cold and frosty evening to come..
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