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Old 01-14-2007, 07:00 PM   #1
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Furnace won't work -

I've got a 66 Overlander and tried to fire up the furnace for the first time. I turned the thermostat on but nothing happened. I could hear a ticking noise every 10 seconds or so from the back electrical box, but nothing ever fired up. Am I missing something? Where do I light the pilot, do I need to? Any help would be much appreciated.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:22 PM   #2
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Did the fan start running before you heard the clicking sound? Are you working off shore power or just your battery? There are several threads going on now concerning furnaces that are failing to ignite after first ignition. Those threads actually go through the sequences the heater goes through on startup. If the furnace is very old, I would replace it but if it was replaced a few years back then I would take it to a go RV technician for diagnosis.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:58 PM   #3
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New furnace?

Your description of ticking only fits an electronic ignition of a new furnace. If indeed that is what it is, then most likely, the gas has not gotten back to the unit and it is sparking but no gas to ignite. What David said is, in fact, true. The fan should come on first, before the ticking starts.
If it is one with a pilot light, there should be no ticking at all.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:00 PM   #4
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I suspect that what you are likely hearing is the electronic ignitor ticking.
Depends though on how old the system is and if it's pilot or electronic ignition.

I've got a 67 Safari that was modified by the previous owner to have electronic ignition. If the heater fails to start on the first try, you have to leave the unit off at least 5 mins before it will restart.

To get mine going. First thing I do is turn on the propane tank and open the gas valve to both oven and heater. (They are two seperate controls) Oven / cooktop is under the cooktop. I light the pilot light and cooktop /or oven burner to check the flow of gas through the system. If that checks out, I give it a few minutes before turning on the heater. The fan comes on for a few seconds and then I hear a short burst of ticking sounds which is the igniter.

In my heater, I can raise a panel and peer into what looks like a lawnmower gas cap that is actually a peephole. From there I can see both igniter tips and the burner assembly.

Best of luck

Alt
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:20 PM   #5
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Thanks for the quick response guys! It seems it's not the furnace that makes the noise - It's placed under the sink, and the sound comes from the back electrical panel. Maybe the furnace isn't hooked up correctly, because I don't hear the fan coming on. I also think there is some truth about the gas lines, I'll try your method Alt -

Thanks again, wish me some luck! It's cold up here in Seattle.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:00 PM   #6
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What Model?

You did not say what make and model. My old Suburban used a push button (spark generator). I got rid of it due to a past recall and replaced it with a newer one.

I am assuming the furnace you have is not the original. Try contacting the manufactorer. Atwood and Suburban both have web sites. If you have a make and model there is a good chance any RV dealer can tell you if you are doing your procedure correctly.

I like new models. Direct spark ignition is wonderful. Vent the lines through the stove to get air out. MAKE SURE YOUR GAS VALVE IS ON! I have a freind that had a major furnace problem that turned out to be the valve was off.

Try the web sites. If that doesn't work, post the make and model of the furnace.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin Camel
...Vent the lines through the stove to get air out.
That same procedure works for me also.
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:26 PM   #8
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Suburban Recall

[quote=Smokin Camel] My old Suburban used a push button (spark generator). I got rid of it due to a past recall and replaced it with a newer one.

Smokin,

I have the original Surburban NT-22 in my '72 and have searched here and checked the website trying to find info about this recall. Do you know what the recall consist of or what parts of the furnace it affects?

I pulled the furnace out of the trailer and took it to a shop today to get a bench test done and would like to pass the info on to the guy who is going to check it out for me.

Thanks, TinB
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:47 PM   #9
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Tin Bender,

The recall on the NT22a concerns the crossover tube between (I believe) the fan and the combustion chamber. This tube tends to crack which will pump carbon monoxide inside the coach. Suburban says parts are not available but many parts are interchangeable and you should be able to get a new tube.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:20 PM   #10
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Nt 22

Tim, I copied a post from Andy: If you search "suburban furnace and look at the 9-22-05 thread it has some posts.

why don't you e-mail Andy about this? He knnows a lot more about it than I do?

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DO NOT USE THE FURNACE!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you are a new owner, then you will not know the history of that furnace.

There is a "RECALL" on that vintage furnace.

The furnace must be removed and bench tested. At the same time, you can determine if the safety recall has been complied with.

The recall involved replacement of the "crossover" rubber hose.

If that hose is cracked or not secure, you "WILL" get carbon monoxide" in the trailer.

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Old 01-22-2007, 06:56 PM   #11
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Thanks Marshall and Camel...

Guess I missed some things in my search. Printed the info from Andy's post and will take to the repair shop in the a.m. Plus, I can get a look at it for myself and decide if it stays or goes.

TinB.
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:06 PM   #12
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Furnace won't work

Tin B


Glad you are taking your furnace to the shop! Make sure they also clean it. If it is the original and you see that it is not a problem with the tube, being the original, you don't want to take a chance on it having other problems.



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Old 01-22-2007, 07:06 PM   #13
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By the way, the recall has long expired. I checked. I have a NT22a and am in the process of deciding if it is salvageable. I would get an estimate for getting it running. You may spend more $ than a new furnace.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:16 PM   #14
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Cool Post #250

TinB,

There was time when I actually thought it preferable to restore/refurbish the orignal NT-32a in my old Overlander. It worked but not well. (Had to be lit manually, and wouldn't stay lit overnight. There were a few fumes but not too bad.) I removed it, cleaned it up really good (shook quite a bit of soot out) and took it to an RV repair place where they bench tested it. Turned out a valve inside was not shutting off completely, allowing a continuous flow of gas. They contacted Suburban Manufacturing and were informed that the part was no longer available, and the furnace should not be used, as it was dangerous.

I was disappointed at the time, as I had already replaced the original water heater and refrigerator, but I purchased an NT-30 from Palomino Parts for around $325 and spent an afternoon fabricating a bit to make it fit.

Long story short, I have a modern furnace which comes on automatically when I move the thermostat and the peace of mind I have is worth it all.

For the life of me, after installing two of these (I installed one in my Overlander last March before selling it and one just recently in my Sovereign), I cannot see why anyone would waste their time, resources, and most importantly, their safety trying to keep a furnace that is over 30 years old!

But, I thought that way too, once.

p.s. - I just realized this was post #250 for me and I am now officially a 4 Rivet Member. I feel so much better about myself!
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