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Old 01-23-2007, 07:01 PM   #15
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1972 25' Tradewind
Madison , Wisconsin
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 396
Talking What he said! Yes!

What Pizzachop said! Amen!

Who is it in the forum that says "spend the bucks", actually if you look around you can find a good furnace for 3-400. Keeps you warm, is probably more efficient, has auto ignition, good heat exchanger - so low chance of CO in trailer. You'll sleep better-and wake up!

Do put a CO & Lp detectors in as well, they are worth it.

Plus look at all of the fun you'll have being creative and instlling a new furnace. I had to use angle iron, plywood and sheet metal to fit (cobble) mine in and it works great.
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:52 PM   #16
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2001 16' Bambi
2013 23' International
Piedmont Region , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Furnace bench test

[quote=PizzaChop]
Long story short, I have a modern furnace which comes on automatically when I move the thermostat and the peace of mind I have is worth it all.

PizzaChop,

I'm 100% with you on this. I have absolutely no intention of risking my safety over $$$. I learned about the problem/recall here in the forums and did not ever even attempt to light the furnace prior to pulling it out. Actually, I have been thinking replacement from the start and have already been searching for prices on the 30 model as a replacement. Some things you just don't "fix".

Just keep posting your tips for redoing the bath. That's next right after reattaching the wheel well covers.

Thanks much, TinB
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:26 PM   #17
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Danielsville , Georgia
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TinB,

The whole bath experience is foggier and foggier the smaller it gets in my rearview mirror. (I'm glad I took lots of pics because I can't remember very much of it anymore!)
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:00 PM   #18
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1966 26' Overlander
Seattle , Washington
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Well after all the tries and great advise from the forum, I took it down to Great American RV (not my favorite place) And had them take a look at it. Turns our my thermostat needed to be replaced and it works like a dream!

Do you all think I should add a second battery to run my furnace through the night? We go winter camping, and sometimes we don't have a hookup -

-skidrd
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:15 PM   #19
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1972 25' Tradewind
Madison , Wisconsin
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 396
2nd battery

While the thought of winter camping (I am in Wisconsin) with the current forecast makes me shiver to even think about it. Maybe I can find a 25 ft. Prka for the old camel.

I added a second battery to mine last year. I also have a furnace that uses about a third of the poer of the first one. Over all I like having the two battery set up. Mine are just group 24. A couple of 27's and you would have a 100+ amps available without falling under the 50% line. I only have 170 total (about 85 available==50% rule) and I have not come close to hitting the low level, even on a couple of nights with the furnace running consistantly a 36 led reading lamp and a radio going--maybe another light on and off here and there.

I suggest doing an amperage budget first. Look up the amp/hr of all of you appliances and you will have an idea if you need a second or not. The big 27's are expensive. My 85 amp Delco AGM batteries were priced right---free! Guess what powers air raid sirens....only one battery is certified----guess what they do with them after a couple of years. Solve that and you are on your way to a potential source of excellent batteries (after all of the electricians have one for the trolling motor).

Back to my original point: something like one of those 12v christmass tree type bulbs use about 1.5-1.6/hr. Your furnace fan should be on the spec sheet. Would you have a vent going etc etc etc. Do a list and think cold camping, warm camping and hot camping-all in a dry camping format.

Try to keep the battery over 50% charged, so you have 50% amps. If you have a group 27 battery you should have about 50 available amps from a full charge. A group 24 (about the size of a typical car battery--but much heavier) you will have about 40-45 amps available. It is sort of a fun project. Watch out for AC stuff on an inverter, those can really suck power. The inverter is costing you a percent or two just being on line. Do the power conversion on those appliances if you anticipate using something AC on an inverter. There are a lot of good threads on doing that and some reference to electrical budgeting charts. It is sort of fun and give you a lot of respect for power budgeting and a good generator.
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