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Old 10-15-2016, 08:55 PM   #15
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2014 28' Flying Cloud
Boca Raton , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Furnce

I had the same problem in my 2014 28' FC. Turned out to be a defective fan box that was not generating enough air to engage the sail switch.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:01 PM   #16
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1998 36' Land Yacht Widebody
Ft. Lauderdale , Florida
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I had the exact same problem with my furnace last year. Mobile RV mechanic came out and tested the circuit board....it was bad. Replace with new model from Dinosore and its like new. Last month same thing happened with my water heater, again, another bad circuit board. This time I replaced it myself!!Guess since the originals were from 1997 they did last for awhile longer than expected
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Old 10-16-2016, 06:03 AM   #17
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1994 34' Excella
Kalamazoo , Michigan
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Just to follow up...

I replaced the board, and everything works normally now.

According to the tech I talked to, the other potential cause is a rusted out burner tube, which can cause the flame to go out on its own. Got a spare one now for the parts box...

Thanks to one and all for the help and tips...


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Old 10-16-2016, 06:47 AM   #18
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Thanks for the follow-up and the good news.

Happy Trails!

Peter
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Old 10-21-2016, 09:27 AM   #19
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2001 30' Excella
Coronado , California
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Same problem, but only when it is really cold

I am having the same problem, but only when it is really cold outside.

If it is not real cold and I just want to knock the chill out of the Airstream, it works fine, but when really cold, it stays on a few moments, goes off, tries again 2 more times and no longer tries to lite.

Does that help determine what the problem might be?

From reading this post, it could be any of these:
  • Defective fan box
  • Circuit board bad
  • Flame sensor
  • Flame rod
  • High limit switch
  • Rusted out burner tube
  • Sail switch

Thanks for any help!
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:40 PM   #20
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Based on it running fine for a short time and producing heat then, I would think the circuit board may be affected by getting hotter when the furnace runs for the longer time. Most of the other items would affect any attempt to start, regardless of the length of the run time IMO.
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:55 AM   #21
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1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown , California
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I'd try warming the circuit board with a hair dryer to confirm that symptom and then check all connections at board. If there are no loose connections you probably need a new circuit board. My Suburban furnace has a problem where it won't do anything unless the trailer is cold, then it works fine. It's like there is a thermostat built into the circuit board, but I highly doubt that; I think the circuit board is on it's way out. The circuit boards do go bad now and then, but sometimes the problem can be something like a dead bug in the wrong place or a birds nest in the air tube. Careful observation and inspection can really help. I will try a dinosaur board when I need a new one.
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:17 AM   #22
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1994 34' Excella
Kalamazoo , Michigan
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JBB...

Are you on shore power when this happens? We had one episode where the burner refused to stay lit due to low battery voltage.

Tom

PS..I bought a new board and the parts guy said I could return it if that was not the cause, which it turned out to be. I think you can find them online for 80-100 bucks, also.


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Old 11-08-2016, 09:40 AM   #23
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1994 34' Excella
Kalamazoo , Michigan
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Started a short thread about burner replacement, and posted some photos and a brief how to for that problem, which also came up on the road.

Search "erratic".

FYI.


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