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Old 11-18-2015, 01:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
Is there air moving? Did an Umpa-lumpa's thumpa get stuck in the return air vent???
There is nothing happening with unit. Nothing got sucked in.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:02 PM   #16
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If the fan does not run at all then likely the motor has failed. Without the spinning fan which in turn closes the contact on the 'sail' switch nothing else is going to happen.

Can you turn the fan squirrel cage by hand? Be careful, it usually rotates clockwise. Maybe something got jammed. Turning it the other way may catch and bend the sail switch.

Easy to remove the sail switch on most of the Atwood furnaces. If you have a multimeter you could remove it and simply check that when the sail pushes in on the contact that you electric flow.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:05 PM   #17
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In freezing weather and a fuel-powered device quits one of the first things we look for is something icing up, often a fuel supply line or components. Possibly something in the air supply. I don't know what your overnight temps were or if it's warm enough during the day to thaw if this was the case?
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:07 PM   #18
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Found this for you. Your model appears to have the sail switch buried on the back side. See if this link is of any use My Atwood 8525 IV DCLP tries to start. Blower motor runs,
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:37 PM   #19
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Furnace won't start

In order for the sail switch to close and allow the gas valve to open the blower must be running. The furnace starts by running the blower for a period of time to purge the plenum.
The sail switch will close if it is functioning properly when the air flow is sufficient. The sail switch will send a signal (voltage) to the board. If the high limit temp switch is made, which means it is not over temp. The igniter will come on and the gas valve will open. The flame rod will signal the board that flame has been established.
Again! If the blower is not running you need to find out why. The sail switch is located in the plenum not in the blower housing.


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Old 11-19-2015, 05:13 AM   #20
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Head south my friend, colder weather ahead.
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:27 AM   #21
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If you have hookups check the breakers. You probably do not. Here's a case for a generater and electric heaters to be used for emergency backup. Hope it is a simple solution, good luck.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:34 AM   #22
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No hookups out here, I have a generator, but I'm in a developed campground in the Mojave. No space heaters. We were fine last night. I have reflectix cut for all the windows.

We're heading to Yuma on Saturday.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:31 PM   #23
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Safe travels to Yuma, you will likely meet some forum folks there. It's an interesting conglomeration of people out in the desert. Have fun.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:49 PM   #24
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I had the exact same issue recently. The one tank did not have enough gas pressure to run the furnace, near empty I guess, when I switched to the other tank it did eventually start. This took a couple of attempts. I think the furnace needs good pressure to run.
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:58 AM   #25
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Fixed it. Just some loose connections I guess. I used my air gun and blew all the dust build up out of it, used electrical spray on the contacts to clean them and then hit the rest switch again, and she fired right up. So. Knock on wood, hope that lasts.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:33 PM   #26
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Glad to hear you got it fixed!


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Old 11-28-2015, 04:33 PM   #27
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Very resourceful, good for you, now get warm and get camping.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:25 AM   #28
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Wink

How much will the heater warm a trailer? On a recent trip is was 22 degrees outside and the trailer only got to 44, is this normal?
Thanks
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