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Old 03-02-2010, 08:55 AM   #1
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Furnace stopped heat last nite

I'm looking for troubleshooting advice

Last night my 5 year old NT 30 furnace ran fine until the wee hours of the morning and then stopped heating. The blower kept running. Tried letting it sit and restart. Thermostat OK. Blower starts but furnace does not fire. Gas OK. Outside temp in the upper 20s. Any suggestions where to start?

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Marshall
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:12 AM   #2
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Check the battery voltage.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:29 AM   #3
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You might have a bad 'sail switch'. I had same trouble, 'gas level fine, blower starts, but does not light'. The sail switch is just an 'on/off' switch that measures the amount of air flow from the blower. Not enough flow, switch stays off and does not allow the gas to light: Or if switch is broken (like mine) it doesn't turn on and gas will not light. I found out about the sail switch in a recent issue of either "Trailer Life" or "Highways".
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:51 AM   #4
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Given Suburban's reputation as "masters of the cold", I'm suprised your unit has lasted that long. The only thing you can check other than Terry's suggestion without pulling the furnace would be the electrode. If it's the ignitor board, replace it with a "Dinosaur".

Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:11 PM   #5
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We had the same problem with ours last fall. It is not the voltage because the fan is going on. Might be the paddle switch but have you tried pushing the reset button? We pushed it once and problem gone.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:27 PM   #6
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If the voltage is low, the fan can run slower then normal with out moving enough air to activate the sail switch, so the burner will not light. Charge the battery first and try the furnace. It's the easiest thing to do so do it first.
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:34 PM   #7
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could moisture in the gas line frozen, blocking gas flow?
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:15 PM   #8
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Update / follow up

I just disconnected the lead going to the electrode and checked for power with a test light with furnace running. No power to lead. Hooked up to shore power and have 13.3v.

I replaced the electrode about 3 years ago. I did not yet pull it out.

When I fired up the furnace last night I was hooked up to shore power. During the night shore power was turned off. When I found no heat the blower was on batt voltage was at 12.2. In the morning I hooked back up to shore power with no luck.

When the furnace failed I lit a stove burner with no problem. I also switched from a partial LP bottle to a full one.

I assume no power to the electrode points to one of the problems mentioned above. Anything else anybody can think of trying before I pull the furnace?

Any further recommendations on order of troubleshooting, or should I just take the furnace to someone who, hopefully, knows more than I do?

I don't see a reset button. There is a power switch on the furnace I turned off and on again.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:37 PM   #9
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If the furnace has to come out, you should replace the sail (limit) switch, card and motor; they will all fail, sooner than later. I'd be looking at the gas valve, too. Blow out all the feed lines with compressed air, also. Since misery loves company, I've, since 01, replaced the heater motor three times, the gas valve once, the electrode twice, the ignitor once and the limit switch three times. I think I've got another limit switch gone bad, the furnace will run for a few minutes then go into lockdown.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:46 PM   #10
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Update/ follow up #2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
If the furnace has to come out, you should replace the sail (limit) switch, card and motor; they will all fail, sooner than later. I'd be looking at the gas valve, too. Blow out all the feed lines with compressed air, also. Since misery loves company, I've, since 01, replaced the heater motor three times, the gas valve once, the electrode twice, the ignitor once and the limit switch three times. I think I've got another limit switch gone bad, the furnace will run for a few minutes then go into lockdown.
Should I just get a new one? Can you still get them from Palomino? Anyone have the Palomino address.

I went to the local RV guy. He said the igniter wire was high voltage and testing it with a 12v tester will blow up the tester. It didn't, so I guess there was no power. It looks like it has to come out. He is willing to work on it.

Anyone know if a new NT 30 will slide into a 5 year old NT 30 cabinet?
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:02 PM   #11
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Five years sucks; find someone who knows what's going on with that furnace, even though you've read my previous post about how I feel about Suburban products.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:28 PM   #12
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This is where I bought my suburban furnace last fall. I paid 430.00 plus tax and shipping. LDV

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Old 03-03-2010, 05:54 AM   #13
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If I just buy a new NT30 will the inside components fit into the old cabinet. In other words, I don't want to remove the old cabinet if I don't have to. Can I just slide the new unit in the old NT30 cabinet?
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:25 AM   #14
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Yes, There are several threads with photos on how to do it. It was easy. I followed Pizza chops directions and photos and somebody elses. It took me about 3 hours. If I did it again I bet I could knock it out in 1 hour. It all depends how old your orginal furnace it. Mine was a 70's Suburban furnace. It works great.

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