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Old 07-11-2003, 08:37 AM   #1
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Question Furnace Repair

Furnace fan runs continually. Will be replaceing the limit switch. Any ideas or do's and don't's for removing and replaceing the furnace?
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Old 07-11-2003, 09:19 AM   #2
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Keep in mind that your thermostat could be a cause of the problem. Small $$ to replace that. I had a problem on my A/C on my SOB where the compressor would not shut down but the fan did. Ended up being a bad thermostat.

Jack
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Old 07-11-2003, 10:09 AM   #3
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I have heard that if the battery voltage is too low, the furnace motor cannot get high enough RPM to get the sail switch to go.

So, it could be a battery power issue.
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Old 07-11-2003, 11:32 AM   #4
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I am assuming we are talking about a Suburban furnace here. I also assume you recognize that a serious screw up here can kill you or someone else.

If the furnace motor comes on and never shuts off then there are several things it could be - and yes, the sail switch is one of them.

First, see if it lights at all. I suspect it is not. If the fan comes on, and the furnace does not light, the fan continues to run indefinitely. Why? Possibilities include a bad gas valve, low voltage, low gas pressure, bad sail switch, bad igniter, bad thermocouple, bad main circuit board. There probably other items which could cause this which do not come to mind right now.

I have forgotten now what had gone bad in my furnace (I have an '85), but whatever it was I decided it was not worth the difference between that cost and a new furnace - about $450, given the age of the furnace.

Mark
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Old 07-11-2003, 05:48 PM   #5
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Thanks for the heads up. The furnace works fine and reignites at the correct temperature.

I would have thought the furnace would be on it's own fuse, but when I pull the fuse to stop the fan we loose the water pump and a light over the sink, curious.

Speaking of pumps ours has developed a vibration all the way to the kitchen area. I wonder if there is a broken pump vane or some other reason it may be out of balance? (Maybe those California highways?)

I am going to remove the built in vacuum motor and use that area for more storage.

Any takers on the vacuum motor and attatchments.

Jim Irwin
South West British Columbia
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Old 07-11-2003, 07:33 PM   #6
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If the burner is cycling on and off, but the fan never quits blowing, then you may very well have a bad limit switch.

Vibration from pumps can be very annoying to track down. It could be that a water line has just come in contact with something solid like a bulkhead. Or maybe the pump itself has shifted over against something that picks up the resonations. Or maybe the pump has gone bad.

Mark
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:17 PM   #7
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Suburban Furnace Ills

Hi guys...
If anyone's reading this thread...I've decided to post again the new info I've found.
The "ignitor" problem was part of my furnace...which happens to be a "Suburban" 30btu furnace.
(I'LL POST THIS IN AS MANY OTHER THREAD AS I CAN FIND THAT APPLIES.)
____________________________________________
Re: My Suburban furnace.

It's not working. What happens is this:
It starts up (ignites) and 10 to 30 seconds later, it dies. STOP!
It has been ascertained that it is due to the main "Mother Board" ("Circuit Board")...
I went to my friendly local RV dealer, and they gave me parts numbers...and costs...yikes!!!!
Then I called our Forum friend, Andy, who told me basically that parts obtained cheaper are not always the best (who knew?). (In automobile 'speak' we call it "AFTER-MARKET PARTS')
....Usually not a good deal. Like Andy said, you can save a few bucks at the get-go---by buying an 'off-brand', but later be forced to spend BEAUCEAUX bucks later because the cheaper one didn't properly fit/work right with the 'stock parts'. (Should be no surprise.)
(THIS IS WELL KNOWN IN THE AUTO INDUSTRY)

I also got good advice from Andy, that taking the furnace apart (the "S" curve---between the fan and the combustion chamber---and giving it a little shake as it's removed (gently) can shake out close to a whole CUP of rust &/or other CR___ that's gotten into the chamber...which can reduce the efficiency of the furnace (to have the combustion chamber's volume so reduced). He also suggests I do this prior to installing a new circuit board & he says that my '83 (shhhhhhhhh! it's 'really' an '81..right?) is really worth repairing,,,since the original parts & appliances are so well-made that they are worth keeping, rather than replacing.
So, here's what my plan is:
1. Get a space heater to keep Bear warm while the furnace is down.(*see below for question.);
2. Pull the furnace OUT ("S" curve first); the 'mother board' is already out; the 'ignitor plate (with elemments) is also out---and the gasket is being ordered and replaced (after the back of the plate has been thoroughly cleaned with 'gasoline');
3. Thoroughly clean the whole furnace...with gasoline & a toothbrush...and reassemble;
4. Replace the main "circuit board" (Mother Board);
5. Replace the Ignitor plate with new gasket;
6. Put the whole furnace back together and start up.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER 'WORDS OF WISDOM' TO IMPART TO ME??? (to
give me more advise....?)
DOES ANYONE HAVE A MAIN "SUBURBAN" CIRCUIT BOARD FOR SALE?? I'd actually rather buy a brand new one ($143.00 + shipping)...but I've heard of those who have either totalled their A/S, or are parting them out for one reason or another...and I'd purchase one that was a Suburban that was in good working order if the price was low enough.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A GOOD SPACE-HEATER TO PURCHASE? I DON'T MIND SPENDING A GOODLY AMOUNT ($70 to $100)...AS LONG AS IT'S ONE I CAN USE AGAIN AND AGAIN---TO SUPPLEMENT THE PROPANE. (I do want to buy a space heater that is ELECTRIC.)

I will apppreciate all advise
and will be very grateful for any offers to sell a 'second-hand' part mentioned above.

...........Cat

P.S. PRIVATE: to "Kajando" Where in Southwestern BC are you...
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:21 PM   #8
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Descriptive Charts?

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE i CAN GET DESCRIPTIVE CHARTS ON HOW TO REMOVE AND CLEAN AN OLDER FURNACE? (BY MODEL & SERIAL NUMBER)...?
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:40 PM   #9
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Kjendo,

Have you had any other problems with it. I just had a similar problem with my 87.

Had a new gas valve installed. Furnace ran fine afterwards but, discovered it did not want to shut off. I installed a new thermostat myself. Old one did not have an adjustable anticipator and new one did. I have been adjusting the new thermostat's current downward since I didn't know what the old one was set at.

I am of the opinion that my furnace ducts & thermostat are a very poor design. The old furnaces get the front of the trailer very hot and convection has to move air to the back of the trailer to help out the bedroom ductwork. The cycles are longer than necessary. Unit has good heat output but, poor circulation and therefore poor cycling.

I bought my new thermo at Campers World for $29, same price as another place I checked.
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