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Old 10-12-2005, 03:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhsl8
There is a white indicator light street side near the rear of the coach that is supposed to tell me if I am on shore power... I think. It has never worked that I know of in the three years + that I have owned the trailer.
That is most likely a polarity indicator light, which should only light if there is a polarity problem. (mis-wired receptacle). So the fact that you've never seen it lit is a good thing....

If I recall correctly, the "shore power indicator" light is in the control panel in my '73, and the bulb was blown out and never replaced.
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:25 PM   #16
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Thanks Chuck. I should get out my manual again and review. Remeber when you first got your manual and the AS was new to you? We just couldn't get enough info. As time went on I got cocky and dove in without looking. God, I was young and foolish. Now I'm old and foolish!
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:00 PM   #17
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If I can piggyback on John's earlier suggestion, maybe the sail valve is not opening and hence not supplying gas to the burner.
Please John, jump right in here before I am over my head.
no you are doing just fine.

john
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:38 PM   #18
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Now for Scott... the receptacle to which I referred is on a garage and the source of the shore power which I was not accessing. There was nothing amiss on the trailer. If I can piggyback on John's earlier suggestion, maybe the sail valve is not opening and hence not supplying gas to the burner.
Please John, jump right in here before I am over my head.[/quote]

Thanks Brouck,

Would I be able to keep my pilot light lit if the sail valve is defective? If I take the front cover off the unit will I be able to seeit or will I have to pull the unit out?

Thanks, Scott
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:25 AM   #19
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Yes, the pilot light may stay lighted in spite of a sail valve failure, if my experience is an indicator. One difference between your situation and mine was that the fan did run when the thermostat called for heat. There was enough juice in the battery to run the fan but not to trip the sail valve.

It sounds to me as if you are getting no power to the furnace and the burning of the pilot light is not an electrical issue. Maybe it makes more sense to run down that problem before opening up the furnace.
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:54 AM   #20
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Furnace troubles

If you have to resort to removing the furnace "works" to fix the problem, it's a good idea to check the main gas orifice to the heat chamber. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble more of the unit to get to it. There is a square plate on the rear of the heat chamber attatched with four screws and the gas line (steel) is welded in the center. Remove the plate and gas line being very careful of the gasket. The brass orifice is screwed on the end of the gas line. The culprit is usually spiders. They enter through the exhaust port and seek out the oder of the gas. Even the smallest particle of dust or spider web can block enough of the gas flow to prevent furnace operation. This is time-consuming and frustrating work since most of the screws are usually rusted, but compared to buying a new circuit board, gas valve, etc. it's a cheap fix if it results in heat! Darol
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Old 10-13-2005, 11:19 AM   #21
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Thanks and Thanks, I will check the electrical first, wouldnt that be nice, much easier to work on. If I do have to pull the unit out.I'll check the main oriface, Thanks for the advise. I may be able to look into it today after work, if not I'll be into it over the weekend for sure. I'll either let you know how I made out or be back with more questions.
Thanks again, Scott
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:40 PM   #22
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Good luck Scott and let us know. Mine is now purring like a kitten.
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:18 PM   #23
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Scott:
If your Suburban is an Nt22 model you best be advised to pull it out and check the 'crossover tube'. This has nothing to do with your current problem but there was a recall on some models because the rubber tube cracks and allows CO to mix with the fresh air intake which is deadly! It's an easy pullout- just remove any cabinet style in front (usually 2 screws) and then find the single set screw near the bottom after removing the cover. Detach the screws outside on the vents and the unit will slide out of the cabinet in one piece after disconnecting the gas line. Inspect everything - the crossover tube will be obvious at the back. If it's shot, the part is no longer available and you'll have to fabricate one out of a plumbing 'no hub' connector or the like. Good luck- your fan may need a good cleaning anyway.
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Old 10-15-2005, 10:32 PM   #24
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Homecoming today at the college I work at so I didnt get much done on the AS. I'll be looking at the furnace tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips. The only thing I got done today is to put a coat of finish on the new cabinetry. It looks like if its not electrical, I'll probably pull the unit and and check everything you all suggested.
Thanks, Scott
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PS, I cant wait to take her out on her maiden voyage the end of the month!
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Old 03-18-2006, 07:38 PM   #25
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Hey there...it's old Granny here again with the 1975 Excella. Now it seems I have a furnace problem. The Rv dealer said it "needs a new gas valve, but they don't make them anymore." He also said that it comes on and the fan works, so the board is fine, just no heat. So my question to y'all is there a replacement gas valve out there for a unit this old and how difficult a job it is to replace?

Thanks for any and all advice & anyone can email me directly if you prefer.

Granny Ham
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Old 03-18-2006, 08:44 PM   #26
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Granny,

Just because the fan starts when the thermostat calls for heat does NOT indicate that the ignition board is OK, The board does several things: start the fan so it can close the sail switch, open the gas valve to provide propane to the burner, maintain the valve open when it heats and close the valve when the thermostat is satisfied. Is this a pilot model?

If he did not independently verify that the gas valve does not operate, then I would question that assumption. The non-ignition could also be a result of a bad time delay relay (found in units like yours) or limit switch. All of the major components should be verified for proper operation.
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