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Old 10-29-2011, 12:23 PM   #1
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2004 34' Classic S/O
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Furnace Problem

I'm having a problem with my furnace
2004 34" S/O AS
Duo Therm Comfort Control. Atwood hydro flame furnace.

The furnace will light the first time and cyle. Then it never kicks on again by itself. If I turn the thermostat off for a minute or two, then turn it on again the furnace will fire up again. Sometimes I can smell gas being vented out the chimney while the striker is snapping. Maybe it will light on the second or third try. If it doesn't light, I need to turn the thermostat on and off again. It usually kicks in sooner or later.

I never had the furnace serviced. It looks like new (no rust) and has been used very little, however I had the same problem last winter. I just can't count on the thing to kick on and off by itself.

Any ideas? I don't know where to start.
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:25 PM   #2
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Might want to post your model numbers. Should be able to find a troubleshooting guide.
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOAZRK2690 View Post
I'm having a problem with my furnace
2004 34" S/O AS
Duo Therm Comfort Control. Atwood hydro flame furnace.

The furnace will light the first time and cyle. Then it never kicks on again by itself. If I turn the thermostat off for a minute or two, then turn it on again the furnace will fire up again. Sometimes I can smell gas being vented out the chimney while the striker is snapping. Maybe it will light on the second or third try. If it doesn't light, I need to turn the thermostat on and off again. It usually kicks in sooner or later.

I never had the furnace serviced. It looks like new (no rust) and has been used very little, however I had the same problem last winter. I just can't count on the thing to kick on and off by itself.

Any ideas? I don't know where to start.
Without being there to test your individual components like the sail switch and ECO, sounds like a bad igniter board. If you need to replace it, use a Dinosaur Fan 50 + Pins. It will work like a charm........
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:53 PM   #4
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I'm not familiar with a sail switch. What is it suppose to do?

Also, it seems like the duo therm thermostat has a kick on and off variance of about 5 or 6 degrees. Is it possible to close the gap to about 2 degrees?

~A
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by NOAZRK2690 View Post
I'm not familiar with a sail switch. What is it suppose to do?

Also, it seems like the duo therm thermostat has a kick on and off variance of about 5 or 6 degrees. Is it possible to close the gap to about 2 degrees?

~A
The sail switch, also called the 'air prover' switch, tells the igniter board that the fan is indeed blowing to speed and closes a circuit that will then allow the gas valve to open and igniter to fire. you can test it by looking at the schematic that is printed on the furnace and locating the wires that come from the sail switch.

If you can locate the switch, move it into the closed position and you should get continuity between the 2 leads. If this is like speaking a foreign language, I suggest that you get professional assistance, as furnaces are nothing to play with unless you have sufficient experience.

Also, If you have the Dometic 5-button CCC, the set-back is pre-programmed into the electronics and can not be changed, unlike an analog t/stat where you can change the anticipator setting.
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:27 AM   #6
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I have a 1967 Caravel 17' I had it professionally inspected, ( so I don't think it's a connection ) but there seems to be an LP leak. If bottles are off no smell, but when running it's almost unbearable. I'm thinking that the control knob may be the problem because when turning the knob with channel locks I applied too much rocking pressure and heard a hissing sound for a second. This didn't cause the leak the furnace was leaking prior to that.

Thank you for any advice or contact info.

Happy Trails, DJ Moniot
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:48 AM   #7
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because when turning the knob with channel locks
I'm confused. Is it normal to have to turn a control knob with channel-lock pliers?
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:08 AM   #8
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I originally posted this thread in 2008. Since then I've had time to become familiar with most of mechanicals in my AS. My furnace problem was caused by a poor connection in the furnace wiring. By unplugging and reinserting each connector, I finally hit one that was making a poor contact. All fixed!
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:17 AM   #9
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Hey, that's great to hear, NOAZRK2690! Nice to know it was positively resolved. Thanks for letting us know!
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:44 AM   #10
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Now if DJ Moniot can resolve his problem…

I'm not a moderator, but I think a Forums newbie with only three posts to date can be forgiven for piggybacking on a thread that had been inactive for almost two and a half years rather than starting his own thread. It's not the first case of thread necromancy!
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:34 AM   #11
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Probably not, but the knob is very hard to turn. I want to apologize to anyone if I've used this forum improperly. I don't do much bloging or fourm stuff so please forgive me. Thks, Jay
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