Furnace not igniting...

[Quince]

I can't seem to get my furnace to fire up.... Can't even seem to get the pilot started...

Its the original from a 1968 Overlander....
Any suggestions?

[Silverflames]

Are you getting gas to the furnace? Check the shut off, the line, ext..

If its a 68 upgrading to a new unit is a safe option.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by Quince

Its the original from a 1968 Overlander....
Any suggestions?

Sorry for being so blunt, but it's time to get a new one.

They all rust out, sprout lots of dangerous leaks, and there are no new parts available for those old ones.

Safety first, right?

[Silverflames]

I've been thinking about a catalytic heater for my AS. They don't have a fan so they don't drain your battery, plus use less o2.

[LFC]

I picked up a Camco Wave 8 the other day new in the box for $72....pretty nice heaters.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by Silverflames

I've been thinking about a catalytic heater for my AS. They don't have a fan so they don't drain your battery, plus use less o2.

True, they don't drain your battery, but also a new furnace will not drain the battery as fast as the original one from a 68 will. I forget the exact numbers, but I believe I recall that the fan for a new furnace uses half the electricity compared to the fan from a 68 furnace.

A catalytic heater is not considered safe for sleeping. They all warn against doing this. Also most catalytic heaters put out much less heat than an Airstream furnace.

My 66 furnace works fine, for the most part, but a new furnace is planned for this year- will use much less battery power for boondocking and I will sleep better knowing that it is safer.

Dan

[LFC]

Here's what Camco says about the Wave 8 heaters...

Designed specifically for RVs, Olympian Wave Catalytic Safety Heaters are safe, efficient and dependable.
Self-generating piezo starter lasts for 20,000 starts. 100% safety shut-off valve prevents non-ignition fuel discharge. Adjustable heat settings. No flame, no flue or chimney, no fan or blower and no noise. Wave Heaters can be used inside an RV as a portable unit (with leg stands) or permanently mounted. Wave Heaters can also be used outdoors as portable units (with optional leg stands, LP cylinder, regulator and hose assembly, all sold separately). Safe for operation at altitudes up to 12,000 feet. Features:

• No flame, flue or chimney
• Self-generating piezo starter
• 100% safety shut-off valve
• Silent operation—no fan or blower noise
• Use inside RV as portable unit or permanently mounted
• Can also be used outdoors as portable unit
• Save for operation at altitudes up to 12,000 feet
• Heats up to 290 sq. ft.
• AGA and CGA approved.
• 4200 to 8000 BTUs.
• For use in vented areas only.

Olympian Wave Catalytic Heaters - YouTube

[Aage]

For use in vented areas only.

This is what I don't like. Leaving a window or a vent open. Seems counter-productive for a heater...

[idroba]

Note the last "Feature" in the list: For use in vented areas only.


They are NOT put in new RV's for a reason. That is they are illegal by the RVIA standards. Can you use them, yep. Do people use them, yep. They are still marginally safe, create much moisture inside the space, and use oxygen from the space, non of which a regular RV furnace does.

Ducks the responses from those who love them and use them.

This is not an opinion only, there are some real issues they create, like it or not.

[LFC]

I don't doubt what you're saying....I didn't buy it to use in my Airstream.

[cwf]

Nearly killed us at a hunting camp. We all woke very sluggish and effects lasted for a long time.

No, thanks anyway.

[jdalrymple]

Originally Posted by Quince

I can't seem to get my furnace to fire up.... Can't even seem to get the pilot started...

Its the original from a 1968 Overlander....
Any suggestions?

I am assuming it has a "hold to light" button somewhere?

Holding it in overrides the thermal couple's function and allows gas to flow to the pilot burner.

If you are holding it in and still get nothing, either the gas supply is not reaching the main gas valve or the valve has an issue.

If the pilot stays lit as long as you hold the button but goes out even after holding the button in for 1-3 minutes with the flame burning, your problem is probably a bad thermal couple.

As mentioned before, check heat exchanger for rust and holes, dirt daubers, and general good appearance.

Any problems there will allow CO into the heated air current.


Regards,

JD

[Quince]

Thanks all, and especially JD! It does have the push to start button, and the guy who sold it to me got it to work, but I can't seem get the pilot light to ignite, gas everywhere else works just fine... So junk in the line just before or at the valve?

[jdalrymple]

Maybe, or some junk in the pilot burner orifice. There is not much gas flow there and just a little junk can block the hole.

A good blowing out with a compressed air hose could help. Don't get too greedy with the air hose, just a little around the burner and the air mixer at the gas valve.


Good Luck.

JD

[Aage]

You can also buy a new pilot light/thermocouple assembly for (IIRC) about $40.

I consider those two items as consumables. They are available at most RV places that sell parts as a generic item.

But unless you remove the furnace and give it a close inspection, you will not know if it is leaking gas, or plugged wholly or in part by wasps / mud daubers.

[Quince]

Thanks again JD!
Anybody else care to recommend a new furnace (make and model) for my 66 Overlander?

Our 66 has all original everything except carpet, stereo and awning... I generally take the "if it aint broke..." approach, but don't want to endanger us either. Any good way to tell the usability of an old furnace, or the "safety" factor?

Thanks all!

[jdalrymple]

While I am a fan of buy new and be done with it, years old is not the only thing to consider.

The main concern with a furnace is the heat exchanger. It is the hunk of metal that is heated by the propane flame that heats the air pushed by the fan from trailer interior.

Any hole in the exchanger allows the products of combustion to mix with the cabin air.
Meaning, carbon monoxide created by the burning propane is allowed into the living area.

Lots of factors account for the condition of a 40 year old furnace.

If the exchanger is not rusted and the blower works, it is probably ok.

Look it over, take a flashlight and determine for yourself if it is ok.

If so, use it. If not replace it.


Regards,

JD

[Pearson422]

I turn my thermostat on wall to furn, and set a temp, unit just blows cold air. Using heat pump tonight getting down to 32. Any furnace lighting tips y'all?

[Silver Hawk]

"I've been thinking about a catalytic heater for my AS."

Don't - My future wife to be and her mother died (didn't wake up) using one of these. They had the window cracked - but not enough - it was winter and cold. Ask yourself what is enough, and is it worth your loved ones lives for the convince to save a little electricity - buy bigger batteries!

[cwf]

Originally Posted by Pearson422

I turn my thermostat on wall to furn, and set a temp, unit just blows cold air. Using heat pump tonight getting down to 32. Any furnace lighting tips y'all?

Has turned on? Gas in bottle? Other gas items work?