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Old 07-29-2015, 06:35 PM   #29
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Never mind, forget I asked, I'll run the experiment again next time it gets cold with more measurements.

I have the IPN Pro Remote, also BlueSky charge controller. Up in the cabinet over the dinette, I installed a few outlets and a voltage meter. It usually displays a lower number than what the IPN Pro is reading, since that on is coming straight of the battery. Maybe I just got confused since I'm posting this a day later and I had looked at the meter in the cabinet and freaked out.

And now that I think about it, I wonder if I left the inverter on all night. That would of meant my computer and monitor were in standby all night long.

And when it's cloudy, I run the generator. Actually Sunday & Monday were the first two days I used it most of the day. But turned it off around 8pm. So I know I had full charge when I went to sleep.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:09 AM   #30
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If you only need a furnace for when the overnight temps are 35-50, 9,000 BTUs is more than enough. If you want, you can add another for 18,000 BTUs at 4 amps. The fact that they are a forced air furnace that can be added on in the space below the floor and they only draw 2 amps make them appealing to me. There is no need to waste BTUs heating the holding tanks in temps above freezing. I like to boondock in the winter in Texas, so this would be an ideal furnace to replace the big, old, noisy, energy hog 30,000 BTU Suburban furnace.

Except when a blue norther comes roaring down the Plains. Just as summer sun is a problem, so is the wind in a winter cold front.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:11 AM   #31
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Anyone know about the Olympian Wave 3 catalytic heater? Perhaps plumbed into the oven propane line.

Probably the most popular one. But there is another (name escapes me) that draws external combustion air.

See posts by 2Airishuman for an older and long discussion.

The catalysts on these things can deteriorate rather fast.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:01 AM   #32
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I have an Olympian Wave 8 installed in my rig and I love it. And so does Page. There is nothing like having an instant warm spot whenever you need one.

I looked into the Cat heater described by 2Air before I bought the Olympian. I spoke to the owner/manufacturer and decided that I would prefer one factory built rather than one handmade by some guy. The Cat is probably a superior unit, but I just didn't go that way.

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Old 07-30-2015, 10:43 AM   #33
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I am late to this discussion, but I agree that it seems something else (besides the furnace) is contributing to the problem.

We went to 6v golf kart batteries to help with the problem of how much the furnace draws down batteries, and are happy we did. In my opinion, you have more than enough solar (we have 200w), primarily you need more storage and to figure out what else is going on.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:08 AM   #34
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Two grp27 Lifelines, one Honda 2000i, and a pair of 15000btu Duofold's.

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Old 07-30-2015, 02:04 PM   #35
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Two grp27 Lifelines, one Honda 2000i, and a pair of 15000btu Duofold's.

Bob
I have two grp 27's already and the Honda eu2000i (see above photos).

They don't make the underwear for babies. One of my girls is 5 months, can't pile huge blankets on her, not safe when sleeping. Sids and suffocation risk.

We ran the furnace last night, batteries were at 12.5 last night when the sun went down and no additional charge was flowing into the batteries.

Woke up this morning to 12.3 voltage. I think I looked at the wrong meter the other day. I'll keep seeing what happens.

We're moving to different batteries in a couple months.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:53 PM   #36
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Additional thoughts....

I have wondered if solar, assuming there is enough sunlight and that the solar system is sized appropriately for the circumstances, would keep up with furnace use draining the batteries during cold snaps. Only time will tell for each of us, of course.

I have been quite interested in the vent free propane heaters. There are many folks who are deathly afraid of them because....they fear dying. Reasonable enough . From all that I've read, from the one sad RV story where folks did die (snow fell during the evening and blocked the window(s?) providing fresh air into the RV) to many full-time boondockers who use these heaters regularly, it seems like a good way to go for some folks. Some use them only during the day when they can monitor the air flow and some use them at night. All speak of making sure to leave both a window and roof vent partially open for air flow as oxygen is something we all need to live . And what some full-timers say to the "naysayers" is we already have propane and carbon monoxide detectors in our Airstreams (at least the newer ones) and the heaters themselves come with their own carbon monoxide detectors so there is double coverage for monitoring.

These heaters, as someone else mentioned, do not obviously heat the water and waste tanks below the trailer floor so when the temps drop below freezing one needs to run the Airstream provided furnace.

This article is one of the best I've found (thanks to those that took the time to write it!) with links to more learning about the different types of heaters, etc.: RV Heater: How to Install a Vent-Free Propane Heater in an RV

I sure would love to hear from more Airstreamers, who are using these types of heaters, to learn from them. I'm still on the fence as to whether to install one some day. I'll start with more solar and see how and where our travels bring us as the years go on.

As an aside, BoldAdventure, I've appreciated many of your posts. And you're going to love your new batteries that aren't Marine-based (if I understand correctly what you're currently using) when you get them.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #37
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Well everyone was right, I totally have shot batteries, not sure how that happened. Been checking the water levels, and everything. But they are discharging way to fast. Probably what I get for using the marine/rv costco batteries. Lesson learned.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:46 PM   #38
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If you only need a furnace for when the overnight temps are 35-50, 9,000 BTUs is more than enough. If you want, you can add another for 18,000 BTUs at 4 amps. The fact that they are a forced air furnace that can be added on in the space below the floor and they only draw 2 amps make them appealing to me. There is no need to waste BTUs heating the holding tanks in temps above freezing. I like to boondock in the winter in Texas, so this would be an ideal furnace to replace the big, old, noisy, energy hog 30,000 BTU Suburban furnace.
I used similar logic when I decided to replace my 20,000 btu furnace in my 66 Tradewind. I looked at the furnace that you referred to but decided on an Atwood Everest Star #8012, 12,000 btu capacity that should fit into the original space. The blower draw is only 1.8 amps. It was less than $500. I have not installed it yet, but will before cold weather hits.

I am sure that 12,000 btu will be more than adequate to keep us warm. I suspect that all our cold weather camping will be in above freezing temperatures.

Dan
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:28 PM   #39
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I installed an Olympian in a '66 Trade Wind. The owner is very happy with it. It is the only heater in the trailer.

I would recommend you tap into the propane supply under the trailer.
I have a '66 Tradewind and am thinking about doing the same. Where in the trailer did you install it? Have any pictures?
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:39 PM   #40
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I have had this problems with my Airstream. I have a diesel pickup that has 2 batteries. I plug the AS into the pickup at night (with the pigtail) and it works great. Have heat all night and recharge the batteries with my Honda generator during the day as needed. Have the 2 batteries on the AS and the two additional ones on the pickup all available to the heater. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:03 PM   #41
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If you're still interested...

Quote:
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Anyone know about the Olympian Wave 3 catalytic heater? Perhaps plumbed into the oven propane line.
We have the Olympian Wave 6.
You might find this thread helpful:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...et-130814.html
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:20 PM   #42
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I have a wave 8 and a suburban furnace.
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