I’m having an intermittent ignition problem with the Atwood furnace in my 2007 Safari. The blower comes on and I can hear the clicking sound of the igniter. It tries to light three times and then gives up.
After I turn the thermostat off and back on, and hit the reset switch on the furnace, it may light and cycle through properly a few times before failing again. I noticed this happening after I ran out of gas in one tank and switched to the other. That may just be coincidence since it had no effect on the water heater.
Has anyone experienced this or have suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue?
This may not be the problem but, it's something to be aware of..
In colder climates, one should be using Propane in your tanks instead of Butane fuel. This usually happens when you fill your tanks in Southern region where the climates are warmer than the Northern regions.(where the winter temperatures drop even lower..)Just something to think about.
For safety reasons~
If your problem is mechanical, it really should be serviced by a licensed tech.
My thoughts and, best wishes to you..
I’m having an intermittent ignition problem with the Atwood furnace in my 2007 Safari. The blower comes on and I can hear the clicking sound of the igniter. It tries to light three times and then gives up.
After I turn the thermostat off and back on, and hit the reset switch on the furnace, it may light and cycle through properly a few times before failing again. I noticed this happening after I ran out of gas in one tank and switched to the other. That may just be coincidence since it had no effect on the water heater.
Has anyone experienced this or have suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue?
Thanks in advance. -Bill
This describes the problem I have exactly. Tries to ignite 3 times and quits. I would appreciate if anyone has some actual advice about this problem...
Butane???
Thanks
__________________
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Rick Rorie
rick@rickdesign.com
WBCCI 7231
I called the dealership about this and spoke with the service tech. He suggested that I had air in the line that was likely trapped in the regulator at the furnace.
The suggested solution was to bang on the regulator with a hammer while the furnace is trying to light, so as to move the air bubble on its way.
My problem has resolved its self. I don't know if it was the hammering or the bumpy road home from the river, but I do know the problem started after I ran out of gas in one tank and switched to the other. The air bubble theroy sounded reasonable to me.
Now that brings me to a question about the tanks because I had the source tank on and the reserve tank off. Should I leave the reserve tank on a quarter turn?
We know precisely the type of problem you have been having. It has occurred many times with our Bambi's furnace. The first time it was fixed by replacing the ignitor board. Then it occurred again and replacing the board again did not work. Talked to the board manufacturer (Dinosaur) and they suggested the sail switch was stuck. Replacing the sail switch fixed the problem for a while. When the problem occurred again, replacing the gas regulator (gas pressure was low ) fixed it. Then the problem recurred and replacing the sail switch fixed it for a week or so.
By then it was obvious that a sticking sail switch was the most likely cause and, figuratively, the hammer came into play. Through an opening in the cabinet, I can bang on the side of the furnace (with a screwdriver handle) where the sail switch is located, the switch comes unstuck, and the furnace works fine. We have now done this for several years and the furnace functions just fine otherwise. It is necessary to bang on the thing about once a year.
Now that brings me to a question about the tanks because I had the source tank on and the reserve tank off. Should I leave the reserve tank on a quarter turn?
billberk,
You should leave BOTH tanks open FULL if you have an auto-change regulator. This allows the regulator to 'change' tanks when one is empty with no interruption in the flow. It does NOT change the little indicator on the regulator, which will be reading red because it is still on the primary tank. When you switch the regulator knob to the reserve tank, that now becomes the 'primary' and the indicator will be green. You should get the old primary tank (now empty) filled before you run out of your second tank. When you hook up the newly filled tank, that will become the reserve, and you should open the valve fully so that the regulator will change automatically when necessary.
Although LP will be flowing from the second tank after the auto change, it flows at a reduced rate. This is designed into the regulator. You have to remember to manually switch the knob on the regulator to restore full flow. You will notice your appliances acting strangely, like they aren't getting enough LP.....which they aren't!
And in case you are wondering, an LP valve should be either fully closed or fully open, as there are seals at either end of the travel. You have a big potential for leaks from the valve if it is open to any position in the middle.
PS: I do not condone hitting an LP regulator with a hammer (or anything else) to tyr to remove an air pocket. You can and probably will damage the regulator seals, as they are made of a fine membrane....not steel! There are other ways already discussed to remove an air pocket.
I had the same problem and now I know...
not that I need to tell you that but it will be my 300th post and I couldn't wait more...
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