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Old 03-20-2011, 09:37 PM   #15
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Just curious if you figured out the problem? Mine has been doing the same thing. It's a new unit so I bypassed the thermostat , but no change. Tried a new limit switch, and again no change. Just to experiment, I flipped the limit switch around so it was facing away from the furnace and the burner worked fine without short cycling. So why does the burner cycle so frequently when the limit switch is facing the proper direction?
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:53 PM   #16
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If you effectively took the limit switch out of the circuit and the heater worked I would suspect the limit switch was bad. Limit switches are generally KlicksOns, a bi-metallic strip that flips at a set temperature. A cheap check would be to replace the limit switch and chech again.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:52 PM   #17
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I tried to bust out the BBQ grill today...it would light, and in about 30 seconds was down to nothing and sputtering then out.
So I took the regulator off an old grill. It works great with the old regulator.
Might be a similar situation with your furnace regulator if all your other systems (water heater, stove, etc.) work just fine.
just a thought.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:44 AM   #18
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There is no regulator involved in the heater or hot water heater. The regulator is just after the bottles in the gas line.

Yes the spring in the regulator for the smaller portable appliances will loose it's umph in time. Another frequent problem is the presence of earwigs. They love those tight spaces and crawl in for a rest.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:33 PM   #19
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This is my second limit switch, so I guess unless I got really unlucky it is isn't bad. The unit is clean, so no issues there. Any other suggestions?
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:41 PM   #20
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I also tested the continuity of the limit switch. While the burner is on, there was continuity. When the burner cycled off, there continued to be continuity when the positive lead of the tester contacted the white wire, and the negative lead contacted the black wire. However, when reversed (that is, positive lead on black wire, negative lead on white wire), I did not have continuity. I can't figure out why this would be the case, since this is a "switch" and I wouldn't think the way the leads are applied would matter.

A little more data if it helps.... fan runs the entire time, but the unit will operate with the burner on for approximately 2 minutes, then burner off for approximately 1 minute, back on for 2, off for 1, etc. This cycling is with the front panel of the burner off since I was testing the continuity of the limit switch. When the front panel is installed, the cycling is more frequent. I've got 4 ducts, plus a small duct to the holding tanks. I can't see why things would be overheating, especially when the the front panel to the burner is removed, thereby causing minimal restriction in terms of airflow.
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #21
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Just to let you know what was wrong was that the unit was just dirty. I'd attribute most of it to a ton of soot in the chamber. I cetainly appreciate everyones advice and input. Thanks again.
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:26 PM   #22
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It does sound like the sail switch. The formed owner even had the control board replaced because of the problem. I pulled out the sail switch, tested it and saw that it worked only sometimes, replaced it and the heater works every time now.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:06 PM   #23
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I had this exact same problem with the Suburban furnace in my 1978 Argosy motorhome last year. It turned out to be the Limit Switch. I replaced it along with the gasket and it took care of the problem.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david686 View Post
It does sound like the sail switch. The formed owner even had the control board replaced because of the problem. I pulled out the sail switch, tested it and saw that it worked only sometimes, replaced it and the heater works every time now.
The sail switch is the last thing I'd check, in my twenty years and four Air Streams, I've never had one go out, but we've full-timed and the furnace gets regular use. Everything else have failed, in spades. It's almost better, especially on older furnaces, when it's removed and cleaned, to replace everything that could cause the same problem: air, but no heat.
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