Lew,
My wife says that if everyone was as professional and competent as you, the world would be a better place.
The fellow who came to work on my furnace seemed like a nice enough guy but it seemed like he didn't really want to be working Friday afternoon. He must have told me five times that he wanted to avoid taking the furnace out. I asked about the sail switch and the igniter board but he said he hoped it was something else because he would have to remove the furnace to get to the board and sail switch.
Maybe we lucked out since the furnace IS working this morning.
Wow! You mean there are RV Techs who work 5 days a week and complain if they are working on a Friday afternoon???? I work 7 days a week, generally 12 hr days minimum, and if I'm done by 6 it's like half a day!!!!
Hi Lew!
Do you often see where factory installed the furnace too off-center so it crimped ducts on one side of the furnace? Wonder if this is unusual. Is it worth it to have dealer reinsert furnace to uncrimp the 1.5 inch and 3 inch ducts or should I just go ahead and do it myself to get it right? These two ducts (the small one goes back and down into the floor for tank & lines; the larger one goes for living room) are severely smashed against the cabinet side near the trailer entrance.
__________________
Jim N5RTG & Deb KI4OKI
full-timing in our CCD 25 blue streak
sometimes seen behind the magnificent 2500HD 8.1L/Allison 6spd "Fred"
Furnace install instructions are VERY clear about required area of ducting. If you have a crimped duct, the result will probabaly become a heat overload situation at some point as there is not enough heated air exiting from the furnace. Every furnace has specific requirements.
When I almost froze to death at the foot of Mt. Shasta, I had an RV tech check mine out and it was the igniter board too. I didn't even know there was one there! It also helps to bleed the pipes after refilling propane by lighting up the stove.
When I almost froze to death at the foot of Mt. Shasta, I had an RV tech check mine out and it was the igniter board too. I didn't even know there was one there! It also helps to bleed the pipes after refilling propane by lighting up the stove.
When ever I remove a furnace for an overhaul or diagnostic work and then re-install it, It usually takes several tries for ignition even after the stove has run for a few minutes to bleed the air from the previously plugged furnace LP supply tube. Be patient when you re-install it to let the LP start a continual flow.
great thread, I have a 1980 ExcellaII I recently purchased, this entire trailer has been neglected. I have evrything working now except the Suburban furnace. First off I had the cool air noisy fan problem. I pulled the unit and found yellow jackets have used this heater as a major construction site for their new city. I cleaned out as much as I could get to by removing the fans. I have a feeling the whole heat exchanger is plugged with these old nests. At this point I wonder if investing in a new heater would be wiser than trying to repair this old one?
great thread, I have a 1980 ExcellaII I recently purchased, this entire trailer has been neglected. I have evrything working now except the Suburban furnace. First off I had the cool air noisy fan problem. I pulled the unit and found yellow jackets have used this heater as a major construction site for their new city. I cleaned out as much as I could get to by removing the fans. I have a feeling the whole heat exchanger is plugged with these old nests. At this point I wonder if investing in a new heater would be wiser than trying to repair this old one?
Phil,
Unless you are prepared to TOTALLY disassemble the unit, it might be better for you to replace it. There is a certain feeling of pride annd satisfaction after having totaly re-built a component.
That said, LP components require a certain degree of safety in their operation and it might be better for your overall well being and peace of mind to replace the unit with a new one.
We have an '85 Excella, 31ft. Our furnace is under the oven which is right next to the door in the "living room" area. The fan is a bit noisy but our real issue is we get only slightly warm air coming out of the vent that is only an inch or two from the furnace in the living area. The air from the vent in the rear bedroom area is warmer but not great. The outside furnace vent blows hot air.
Any ideas or suggestions? (Apologies if I have hijacked this thread. Seems to be the appropriate spot at the moment.)
Unless you are prepared to TOTALLY disassemble the unit, it might be better for you to replace it. There is a certain feeling of pride annd satisfaction after having totaly re-built a component.
That said, LP components require a certain degree of safety in their operation and it might be better for your overall well being and peace of mind to replace the unit with a new one.
Weigh all of the factors before deciding.
Lewster,
Thanks, I know I could get this thing running, I just think I won't be able to sleep knowing a 30 year old furnace is running! Might be best to spend the $500 dollars and sleep peacfully!
We have an '85 Excella, 31ft. Our furnace is under the oven which is right next to the door in the "living room" area. The fan is a bit noisy but our real issue is we get only slightly warm air coming out of the vent that is only an inch or two from the furnace in the living area. The air from the vent in the rear bedroom area is warmer but not great. The outside furnace vent blows hot air.
Any ideas or suggestions? (Apologies if I have hijacked this thread. Seems to be the appropriate spot at the moment.)
Mrs RedSHED
Hi Mrs RedShed,
Have you had the furnace serviced lately? I was reading my service manual and it recommends you service these every year! Sounds like you could have blocked vents or intake obstruction. I would remove the unit and clean the area where the fans are or get it serviced before it gets worse.
Phil
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